I just got my engine put in and everything (I think =) Bolted back to normal... Won't start however... We are getting gas... compression seems quite good..

Problem is when I went to check my timing... For some reason both leading and trailing in the first rotor are at the same mark (yellow mark) I checked to make sure the wires are correct and everything.. and checked timing again and again..

Could I need to mess around with crank angle ? any ideas?

Thanks a lot!

 

Push start the car!




-Ted

 

Well, We found out the alternator wasn't spinning... We fixed that and that helped a lot...

We already have been trying to push start..... Even with just the normal starter motor it sounds like it wants to just fire up... But I get like NO throttle response...

We tried pull starting it... We went 25 MPH and I let the clutch out in 3rd, It ran about 2000 rpm or somewhere around there... But Throttle response was like 0 ... I floored it and I get a wierd sound, That is it.. The rpms were steady with the speed of the truck pulling it... Any ideas?

Also question: We have all spark plugs and wires right.,... Crank angle sensor is installed properly by the fac manual... And on the first rotor, Both leading and trailing spark at the first (yellow) mark... That is turning it with starter motor..

I remember it being leading on the yellow and trailing on the red when the engine ran before.... does it do that only when running? They both spark at same time when starting ? I'm still learning!!!! Thanks a lot!!!!

(btw tommorow I am buying new fuel filter and spark plugs... cheap things, doubt they will solve my problem but definately can only help =)

Thanks a lot!!!!

 

Also, When dismantling the engine, We took the mass airflow sensor off wrong... Instead of unplugging it, We unscrewed that plugin and took it out.. (didn't see the plug... No laughing =)

could that have an affect? Vaccum hoses ? (I've checked over them all like 95 times but I'm ready for #96

Thanks a TON

 

How long has the car been sitting, could the gas be bad?
Did you have the injectors cleaned or at least use ones that you know are good?
Have you checked the AFM with a voltmeter to be sure it's alright?

If you put a used long block in
Try to introduce as few new variables as possible, in other words change any sensors from the original engine that you know were OK over to the new engine, it'll be easier than testing everything.

 

Well, I am going to locate some fuel injector papers my friend gave me when he sold me the car.... Wasn't TOO long ago he had em flow tested and cleaned... They flowed pretty good.. I will see how long ago that was... and check it out..

Other than a new housing, new rotor, new seals (apex, side, oil, corner, I went all out which wasn't needed.... ) All the bolt ons and such are the same.... Spark plugs are pretty new, but have some buildup, purchasing some new ones in morning...

push starting it fires it for a sec, but when I push throttle in it doesn't respond at all... Shrug... Going to check all electrical connections tommorow, and do lots of studying tonight..

Keep any ideas ya have coming !!! Thanks a lot guys!!

 

It really sounds like timing is off...
I dunno why the trailing is firing at the same time as leading!&nbsp You got the wires all crossed?




-Ted

 

Make sure the AFM is hooked back up Mine came unplugged at the dragstrip once and it did the same thing. Rather embarrassing.

 

You might have a little repair job on your hands with the air flow sensor. That connector isn't meant to just pull out when you unscrew it and you could have some shorts and opens now. It attaches to a board inside and there are some pretty delicate connections. I'd take it off again and do the resistance tests described in the manual. If it fails, some of your connections might be bad or shorted. You can get inside for a look by carefully trimming the sealant that holds the cover in place on the AFM. (On my 88, sealant is the only thing holding the cover on. The other side as I remember has a bunch of small screws. NOT that side.) It takes some work and time to get it off, and you want to be sure to not let any of the sealant shavings fall inside if you do that.

Someone else might know better, but I don't think you should be able to get that connector that's screwed in off at all without ruining the connections internally. Try the resistance checks first, but if it fails that's where you need to start looking.

 

I'll bet if you pull the ECU codes you will get an 8 or 10 (AFM) error. BobR is on the right track.

 

Thanks a LOT guys... I am going to take it apart carefully... See if that is my problem.... and I will check all my spark plugs and wires again... and again to make sure it's right....

Thanks guys!!!

 

Green,

You'll see when you're in there why it's important to not let any junk fall in and why they seal it. Make sure you use silicon to close it back up again when you're done. Good luck...

 

I can't find the part in the manual, Or I'm just dumb... We are talking about the factory manual right? I have an 88 factory manual, which if I'm correct is very similar to 86 ? Anyone know the exact page? I also have haynes manual.. But I used that to set things on top of... more like a coaster than anything else during my rebuild.....

Also How can I check the ecu codes? Any webpages that show this? I know my friend hooked up lights in his hood that showed the codes when he turned the car power on.... Thanks again guys!

 

Go to section 4A, Air Intake System. Page 55. I just looked at the www.fc3s.org manual on line and that is where it is. Congratulations, you found a good use for the Haynes manual. Also I would like to add that a fresh rebuild engine has initialy low compression and will flood out at the drop of a hat. Some do, some do not. The air flow meter probably is the prob, but, I think at some time you need to disconnect the plug to the fuel pump(really do not care how you disable it), buy some starter fluid, spray it into the intake. If the car will fire up for a short burst, then you have a clue which way to go to fix the car. No fire, I'd say its not fuel related and go for the elec sys. Trail and lead both on the same mark? Makes one wonder about the hook up of the wires. Next time put you timing lite right where the wire goes to the coil and check both lead and trail wires like this. No good answer for that. Makes one wonder. The pig should start with just the leads anyway. Oh yes, the section 4a above is for checking the air meter out.

 

ECU codes? Try http://home.rmci.net/partner/ecu_codes.htm It has the method for getting the codes. Its cheap and easy to make. Parts readily available at Radio Shack. EDIT, EDIT......Just found out that url is not active anymore. Try http://teamfc3s.org/main.shtml At the opening page look wher it says go to their old home page and click. When it opens go to Aritcles. There is where a lead to the ecu codes exists.

 

Hey HAILERS, good to see you again. Even nicer since the problem here isn't mine this time. *L* Does the ECU retain the codes or just exhibit them during the problem? Seems to me it doesn't retain them on the 88 and below since there's no way to clear them, but that's just based on that occasional O2 code I was getting. I guess it doesn't make any difference in Green's case. It's going to keep setting codes in the condition it's in as soon as it's started.

Green, SureShot has a good idea there with checking the codes to be sure, but I'm almost positive your air flow meter is hosed at the moment. Some of those contacts on the connector are soldered to the board inside. Well, they were anyway. Assuming that is the problem, make sure you do the resistance checks again with the cover off before you silicone it shut again to make sure your repair is good. Matter of fact, if were me, I'd tape it shut tight and try to run the car once you think you have it fixed. Once you know for sure then seal it shut permanently again.

Very delicate connections in there, BTW, so use a good small soldering iron. A heavy one will lift the traces off the board and you'll have bigger problems.

 

Good news and REALLLLLLLLY bad news =(

I opened up the MAF, did checks as the book shows using my multimeter... And one was getting no reading... It was this big long gold colored prong.. It look like it needed a wire plugged to it.. but the wire that went to it was tucked under hidden, and I found it , popped it on... tested it.. it's fine now..

Car started up EASILY (I was amazed)... AND smoked TONS ... I mean TONS.... Which was expected... BUT it was pure white smoke... and didn't stop.... Engine ran GREAT smooth and everything, But I think I pinched a water seal putting it back together!!!!!!

SOOO Tommorow I am stipping the sucker... pulling it back out... and overnight, or next day rebuilding it.. this time MUCH more organized... =(

Wish me luck....

 

BTW, The car had pretty good compression,, I think it was about 75 on each rotor.... Which after a little breaking in should raise to about 90 hopefully... at least that's what I've seen...

Either way, I did SOMETHING right huh? hehe

They aren't kidding when they say label all the bolts huh? haha That was a ****.. not to mention all the bolts I lost and all that I broke! DOH!

Do water seals need to be broken in or something? I doubt... but just wondering... Before I take it out, is there a chance it's not bad? hehe I just hate to do all that work again!!!

Thanks a LOT for all your help!

 

You are there and know what is happening, but.....every engine I rebuilt(only five)smoked real, real , real bad. Each time I was sure that I had screwed up. The smoke comes from me applying gobs of vaseline to the parts as I assy the engine.I also pour lots of oil in the combustion chambers when its put together. All that darn oil and vaseline goes into the exaust. It takes forever to burn out. I'm talking a good 45 minutes before it cuts down to just a whisper.The exaust gets hotter and hotter and finaly burns all that oil dumped in the exaust. You seem to be sure its a pinched seal, so it must be a pinched seal. Just wanted you to know that a brand new engine will really smoke to high heaven if you have been real liberal with the oil and vaseline. Neighbors make faces but I killed most of the skeeters in the hood.

 

Well I used engine assembly lube a LOT, and oil....... But shouldn't that smoke black/grey/bluish ? Pure white is water I thought....

 

Sounds like you are not really sure if the engine is bad. I'd give it a full hour of running, even if its just at idle. Monitor the water level. Even that is'nt a sure indication since this is the first filling since the rebuild, but after a couple of toppings off while bleeding the radiator, it should stop disappearing. Like I said earlier, there has'nt been a one that I rebuilt that I did not feel apprehensive about because the sucker smoked.Mostly WHITE smoke.The oil initially blows down in the exaust and then as the exaust gets really hot that excess oil starts burning and leaving the smoke trail. By all means run it for a good hour making sure it does not overheat. I hope for your sake I'm right. If not, have another try. If you have to tear it down, you might have to Eastman 910 the end piece on the apex seal back on for reassy.The triangular piece.EDIT....usually what happens is it will idle and gradually almosst clear up, I'll increase the revs and it starts smoking more(because the heat is reaching the oil further down in the exaust) idle some more and it WILL stop smoking after about almost an hour or so.

 

I used assembly lube in my engine... Should it be smoking pure white? I thought it would be more charcoal/black..



Don't know if I posted that pic right... so here is the url to copy paste if you want..

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...nce=0&res=high

I drove it around the block, and the smoke didn't slow down or anything... I think it's bad...