When my car is cold, I have to take the following order of operations for it to turn on 90% of the time.

Press in accelerator.
Clutch, turn key.
As the car is taking its normal 4 seconds to just turnover, I have to hit the accelerator for it to fire. If I don't it will not turn over.

The 10% of the time it doesn't want to turn on, I pull the ECU30 chip, "thingy" out of the line-up and crank the motor for the 10 seconds like I read while on the accelerator. Then, after that process is done, I have to do the ABOVE process or it will not turn on.

Car was bought from a dealership with only an after market, probably ebay exhaust, and some wiring done to it for a sound system. Also a K&N air filter, and there was a sideways AFM I believe for whatever reason, and I was told to straighten that out.

HOWEVER MY QUESTION IS THIS-- With all that information, what is wrong? Also, are these symptoms of shitty gas mileage? What do I need to do to fix it.

I have started one or two threads, but I never really get a solid answer on what to do. I have a compression tester and I can get the compression later on today possibly, if I can figure out how to use a piston compression tester on the Rotary. I know there is a simply write-up at rotaryresurrection.com, or at least I think there is.

Will be keeping a close eye, and answering all questions I can as quick as possible. Thanks for helping to all those who do.

 

hrmmm obviously by now u know its flooded u should try going to rotaryresurrection.com it helps alot. Maybe you need a rebuild???????

 

Checking compression here pretty soon at my buddies house.

Flooded yes, obviously. Why it constantly floods over and over again is what I don't know. Rebuild hopefully isn't in the future, and if it is, I guess I will just sell this car, and find a nice S4 or even a S5 and rebuild that engine instead.

 

Let me get this staright, you has to press the gas pedal for the starter to engage/work/spin?

Spec.

 

No, I can sit there and crank it, but unless I am on the gas it will not start. It won't fire up without the gas pedal being down.

UNLESS IT IS WARM, then there is no problem. This is for cold starts only. Just bought a compression tester and about to check compression.

 

I have 95-98psi on the front, and 91-93 on the rear.

 

bad injectors maybe? thats the only thing i can think of.... the way i see it by the way you describe....the motor isnt seeing fuel till you press the gas......i had that issue too but not soo much the way you had it. Try the injectors, if that dun work then come back.

PS. get a second opinion because i may not know enough to diagnose your issue. ^_^

 

Those numbers are pretty good. Dont think your engine is the problem. Download the FSM and check all the sensors. You can do it with a meter at the ECU which is on passenger side where your feet go under the carpet.

 

Bad injectors you think, huh? I will check it out.

 

I believe you have one or more leaking injectors. I have a similar problem - chronic flooding. The reason you have to put the pedal to the floor is to add more air for the extra fuel that is leaking from the injector.

A quick fix is to install a switch on the fuel pump relay so that you can turn off fuel pump before turning off the motor so that all the pressure in the fuel system is depleted and cannot leak into the engine.

A better solution would be to have your injectors professionally cleaned and tested. I suppose something else could be causing your troubles, but a simple switch worked for me.

I have a true dual exhaust and when I flooded out before I had the switch I could hold a lighter to the exhaust exit and it would instantly shoot flames!!! but only on one side - so I have a good idea which injector is leaking. My idle is around 1000-1100 rpm's most of the time but occasionally drops real low & bounces around while the BAC tries to keep it running - like the leaking injector stops leaking and I have my idle screw all the way closed.

Anyway, I put in the switch for the fuel pump relay in about 5 minutes and haven't had any trouble starting since then, but I need both hands & both feet working at the same time to start the car - clutch, gas, switch & key - so it's kind of awkward. The plus side is it will be a little harder for someone to steal it as the fuel pump switch is left in the off position until I have the ignition in the start position & the engine turning over. I hope this helps -

Ramses666

 

have you checked tps ? look for tps adjustment under search at top of screen and check if it is out of adjustment all you need is a digital multimeter/ vom/ ohm meter to check adjustment accuracy

 

My idle is high as hell, usually around 1,700 or even 2,000.

 

Check the TPS - Throttle position sensor. That is easy enough to eliminate as a problem.

Ramses666

 

Same problem here man. Sometimes it wont even start, an when it dose its a choppy idle an all that.

 

I am going to check out new injectors, and see what goes on.

 

Does anyone have any other idea as to what it could be?

 

I would eliminate the TPS as a problem before buying new injectors. While removing & having your injectors cleaned would most likely be cheaper than new injectors. They are 20 years old. there is a good argument for new ones. If buying used ones you have the problem of them leaking as well. Mine are getting better. I put in some injector cleaner in the tank & they seem to be settling down now... my idle was at 700-1000 today which I think is totally acceptable considering the FrankenMotor I'm running now. My ride doesn't stall & idles nice but it took a while to settle down since I swapped cores & S4 to S5 intakes. I would say don't rush out & spend lotsa $$$. Put a switch on the fuel pump relay & use it. Odds are the injectors will sort their issues out with some cleaner in the tank given time to work.

Ramses666

 

here is how to fix it.

pull out all 4 spark plugs.
spray them with an air compressor because they are probably soaking wet with gas
reinstall spark plugs.
restab CAS (search)

crank key and presto chango you are back in business.

wet spark plugs don't create a spark so they don't ignite air/fuel mix. hence the unburnt gas coming out the exhaust.

 

This is addressing the immediate problem but not a solution to the cause. Let me watch you take out the plugs & all that while out on a friday night. There are several methods for unflooding & starting a rx-7, but fixing or mitigating the problem would be more helpful.

Ramses666

 

the problem is the timing so the plugs are firing late and not igniting the a/f mix then they get wet and cause the "flooded symptoms" the op is posting.

 

So you're suggesting he do that everytime his spark plugs get wet from his leaky injectors?

That's somewhat annoying.

 

EDIT: 4 injectors, got it.

57.00 a piece, times 4 is 240ish... That is pretty hefty. Is this almost 100% fix or will there be more to the fix then this?

 

What am I looking for on the TPS? Some of you are saying check the Throttle Position Sensor; I just don't know what I am checking.

 

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMAZDA.asp

Is that set of 4 for 189 any good?

 

Looking for ANY type of response, please.