ok, now... RA basic rebuild kit or master kit? is it worth the extra 400 dollars?

 

thing is do u need to replace those extra parts in the master kit

 

the sideseals are fine 90% of the time (according to what landers tells me) but the oil rings is something that i seriously dont want to installed USED in my engine...

 

Thumbs down on the RA apex seal springs.

 

Thumbs down on you then.



And to jacob.

If you have the time and ability, what would be best is to just tear the engine down and replace what is needed. Normally this includes all the soft seals and o-rings, apex seals, side seal springs, and corner seal springs. You don't need to run corner seal plugs, you usually don't need to replace the corner seals, the large o-rings on the rotors have springs that usually don't need replacing, etc. So what would be best is to just tear it down and measure everything and see what you actually need. RA apex seals and springs are cheap, strong, and hard, but for the rest of the stuff you can buy it seperately from Atkins for cheaper usually by just buying what you need rather than a kit.

 

i think i might go with the RA basic kit. my engine only has like 15k on it

 

kabooski used the RA seals and got 520whp outta his
i guess if u break them in properly there ahouldnt be a problem

 

If you only have 15k on the motor you probably don't even need all of the stuff in the Basic kit, but you it'd be easier to just order a kit I guess. I'd make sure the corner seal springs are FD ones and not the FC ones, the FC ones are little weak pieces of wire, the FD ones are much better.

 

sweet. have you done a rebuild ddub?

 

this is my first time doing a rebuild. i'm scared............

 

After seeing the work done on your previous car (presumably by you), you well should be scared!



Seriously, it's not that bad...but if you've never done it, or seen it done IN PERSON, there's a lot of hang ups that can screw you badly. The cleaning and organization is the biggest part of it, and will determine success or failure.

 

that 91 ran like a scalded dog after i got it back from you

 

And when it came here it looked like it HIT a dog on the way...

 

well i couldnt have been goin too fast when i hit the dog cause the car was only makin 55psi of compression

haha

 

Did my first rebuild last summer. It took a while but that's because I didn't have half the tools needed. Now that I have the tools and have done it once it wouldnt be as bad, in fact I've been working sparatically on my next build and port. Haven't been working too hard or fast on it, though, because I have no car for it yet.

 

is there a list of TOOLS i'll need for all this madness?

 

You'll pretty much need air tools for the flywheel nut and front e-shaft bolt, which I didn't have at first this is what slowed me down the most. You'll need a pilot bearing puller if you plan to replace that, but I didn't and if your engine has that low of mileage you probably wont have to either. You'll need a dial indicator to check endplay at the end. If you plan on checking any clearances you'll need a digital caliper. If you plan on porting you'll need the tools and bits for that, whatever you prefer. For other things you can get creative, like instead of a flywheel stopper I just put a bolt against one of the flywheel teeth and the engine, held it fine. Other than those things just your basic hand tools are needed obviously, and a torque wrench.

Oh and don't forget the engine stand adapter, makes life a whole lot easier. It's not needed, I've seen people build engines without it, but it definitely makes things easier in my mind.

 

<3

 

15k and already a rebuild? wow nice.

 

I am going with 8.5 and water injection for 22-25lbs of boost on pump 93.

 

sweet.