Needa13b

I was bored so I went out and took these pictures. It's -4 degrees outside I think.


Here's the reason why I won't turn my engine on. The left bolt is busted in half and wont come out.


Until I get that figured out, i'm just gonna take as much of this car apart and clean and redo as much as I can this winter. So i went to take the UIM off, I have all the nuts and bolts out, and this side of the UIM just wont budge, (the nut is off).



And here are just some more shots for no particular reason.

unW7WZ

kinda looks like mine. All today i spent hunting down vac leaks. I still can't find the one that causes her to idle @ 2k. Might be the tps, but I haven't gotten to it yet. Also the turbo glows after a period of "idling". Also I am about to remove the air pump (split air pipe is off and all associated hoses). Good luck, and clean her up good!

Alex6969

that fan shroud makes an exalent self i must say, i love it

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Hmm... Whenever I've had vac. leaks, the car's idle'd rough and lower, not higher... If you've already done the 'carb-cleaner spraying trick' in the engine bay without finding any hidden vac. leaks, I would look elsewhere for your problem. If you've still got the BAC, check that, also check the throttle-cable tension and try adjusting your idle stop screw/jamnut combo on the UIM. Also, make sure your TPS is set correctly. You also should reset the timing after doing these things.

Having incorrect timing etc. can cause your turbo to glow from incorrect AFR's. Also, do you still the stock cat(s)? They can become pretty restrictive with age/deterioration, adding to your glowing turbo problem.

Needa13b

I don't know where I'd put my tools if I didn't have it.

Yeah, i'm pretty sure I have a vacuum leak, and/or bad secondary injector. When I test my O2 sensor, it responds to a throttle snap in under 30ms, but when it's held constant, the O2 sensor puts out a Voltage of .07V. If i gas the intake with propane I can get it to jump up to .85V, but then it goes down immediately.

Also, when I just sit there, hold the clutch in and rev the engine, it's smooth as butter in the 3k-3.5k range, but then above that it's really rough, feels like it's out of balance or something. The thing is, it races up to redline no problem, does the same thing under load when i'm WOT accelerating in any gear.

I'll get a pic of my Secondary injectors up, they look different. They are the same injector, but it looks like they have had different work out programs their whole life you know what I mean? I'm gonna flow test them at school to see their spray pattern, maybe get them cleaned too.

Alex6969

your profile says you have an 86 but your overflow bottle is up front like 87 and up. did you change it out?

Needa13b

Where should the over flow bottle be? This is how I bought it.

Alex6969

if yours is an 86 it over by the driver side strut tower, right behind the coil pack. not the best place for hot coolant to be. and there's no purge on it, its just a bottle with a top and the line to the rad.

Needa13b

Guess you learn something everyday. So your saying it would be under the Main Fuse Box?

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

Not all of 'em - my 86 has it up front as well.

Carzy Driver

Same here, mine's in the front.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

Mine too

iceblue

Use vice grips to get the bolt out its sticking up enough. Or a screw exsctractor, Or drill and heli coil it.

Here my engin bay :-D

trainwreck517

iTrader: (1)

Not sure if thats it.. as I don't have a S4 n/a.. but i know on the S5 N/A it has two bolts holding the manfold down by the VDI. But seems like is holding it down from the picture.. hope that helps

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

that exact bolt has broken on 3 of my s4 motors. its an easy fix though. like mentioned before just drill it out and tap to the next biggest size or go all the way through with a nut on the other side. i dont trust helicoil.

and after 2 years and 4 months i finally hit 400 posts. feel like such a dirty *****.

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

your intake could be being held down by the rats nest. there is a small 10mm bolt on the left side of the UIM. if you put your hand where the last of the four nuts on the left side are, then move it off the side and you should find it. hope all that makes sense.

Needa13b

Yeah, all those bolts are loose, I just put them back in the threads so I don't lose them.

Needa13b

Some one had told me that one before, so i went to check it out, and there is no bolt there... Just a hole w/ threads. Some one must have taken it out before I got the car. The rat rack is just loose right where you said to check for that bolt.

Needa13b

Now the bolt on the far left of the UIM is in there solid, the nut came off though, so there should be nothing holding the UIM in place other than rust/gasket stuff? This is such a pain, and I haven't been out in the garage for a while during this cold snap, now it's warm but I'm no where near my car.

Phantomkid

umm i dunno if youve gotten this off yet but you uim should be held to the lower intake manifold by 5 bolts/nuts. 2 in front two on the sides and 1 in the back you should take that off then remove the dynamik chamber. The dynamik chamber has 2 screws that go throw the UIM(if thats the name for it) that are much easier to get at when its removed

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Hey, are these out as well?



If all the nuts and bolts are loose, a quick whack with a rubber mallet should have the UIM off quickly.

Oh, and is your wiper motor blue?

theantirotor

iTrader: (1)

uh oh... someone is about to have a blingin engine bay.

how long did it take to close up all those holes?

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

I'd imagine a total of ~4 seconds per hole per weld; and about 30 per grind; multiplied by about... 100

iceblue

^ close a little longer. About 20 per hole weld. Some holes required metal to be placed behind. Grinding took about 15 to 40 per hole depending on how large the held got and waiting on my compressor ;-). It took 2 days to convert to RHD and 2 more to smooth the engin bay.

Needa13b

I'm sure i have all the bolts that are holding the UIM in place, out. I am trying to take the UIM and DC out as one piece. Is it easier/possible to take the DC off first before the UIM?

Yea, those bolts in the pic are out, just resting in the threads so i don't lose them. I'll try the rubber mallet idea, but you gotta understand, I'll stand passengers side of engine bay, reach over the DC, grasp it firmly there, and I can move the entire assembly (DC/UIM) except for the one bolt in question. I'm waiting for an above freezing weekend to work on this some more.

And yes, my wiper motor is blue. The guy I bought it from said it was rebuilt, and you can see it was spray painted if you look real close.