I don't understand.

It says that I can remove ALL of the selenoids, and im assuming at this point that means the rats nest becuase you need to route the fuel hosing again. But if I remove the rats nest, then I'll also be removing the metal brackets that hold up the dynamic chamber...

Finally, with the rats nest removed, selenoids gone, and following what still should be hooked up, any other vacuum plugs on the chamber, manifolds, etc, should just be capped?

thanks.
I wish we had pictures for this ****.

 

No pictures but here is a write up from RR http://rotaryresurrection.com/rotary...ssionsrem.html

 

thank you for that. In the pic it shows that he's not using the rats nest to hold up the dynamic chamber...

I still don't like that, and I think im just going to cut the brackets off of the rats nest and use em still.

When I took off the vacuum tubing for the oil injectors, the primary injector tubing broke off like glass.. the plastic was so hardened that it just snapped off and shattered.. ouch, gonna have to replace that piece.

It seems so much simpler now that the nest is gone.. im gonna need to reroute the fuel lines like they said in the article, but all I need is about 6 feet to get that done, there are metal pipes that connect up with the rubber right by the drivers side, I won't need to run line all the way to the gas tank.

Also, there was no nipple on the fuel pressure regulator on the primary fuel rail.. im not to sure where I got the idea that there was one..
Oh yea, I took the coolant line that runs through the thermowax-BAC that comes out of the filler neck for the coolant, and routed it directly to the other nipple. There isn't any problem doin this is there?

 

Some people have problems with idling removing the BAC. Ask kenteth about it or search for his thread. I think the nipple on the FPR is on the secondary fuel rail, it is on my TII anyways.

 

The manifold is strong enough to hold itself up.

There is only one FPR, located on the secondary rail. What looks like a FPR on the primary rail is the pulsation damper.

If you disconnect the coolant line that runs to the thermowax, you must also remove the thermowax and its linkage, or you'll have a permanently high idle. If you leave the coolant lines there, everything will work fine.

 

Thanks. I guess I won't be modifying the brackets... not needed.

 

I read in the search that some guy capped off his older coolant lines that ran to the TB and BAC, is this a better way to do it?