Emissions to delete when adding a standalone
08-16-22, 04:03 PM
#1
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Emissions to delete when adding a standalone
I have already read through the famous list of what CAN be removed from the car so I don't need to be redirected to that. I have an 88 NA and will soon be installed an Adaptronic pnp ecu. I know that the emissions equipment won't be controlled by the ecu, so what are the bare minimum pieces of emissions equipment that needs to be removed from the engine for it to all run good. Also, I have already taken the air pump and the acv off the car, and replaced the cats with a presilencer. So what else?
08-16-22, 04:32 PM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
Nothing, leave it all on because you are in CA, and run a PowerFC instead so the emissions work.
08-16-22, 06:02 PM
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08-16-22, 07:45 PM
#4
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the Adaptronic is kind of dumb, the ECU can run the emissions, it has the inputs and output it needs, but they didn't set it up so that the ECU pins matched the stock harness. so its dumb, because it plugs in, but they didn't make it run everything, even though they totally could have
08-16-22, 11:45 PM
#5
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the Adaptronic is kind of dumb, the ECU can run the emissions, it has the inputs and output it needs, but they didn't set it up so that the ECU pins matched the stock harness. so its dumb, because it plugs in, but they didn't make it run everything, even though they totally could have
08-17-22, 06:28 AM
#6
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If you're not worried about passing SMOG it can all go away.
Keep the BAC valve for proper idle consistency. Your standalone should have the ability to provide a pulse to it. I removed everything relating to "emissions" equipment. The entire spider assembly bolted to the engine is gone. There will be some vacuum nipples on the lower intake that you'll need to route properly for the injectors and on the upper intake manifold most of them can be capped. You can source your boost gauge reference from the upper intake. Retain the charcoal canister to keep fuel fumes down.
I'm running a rock steady solid idle of 1000 rpms and 1050 rpms with AC on. 13.3-13.4 afr at idle.
Keep the BAC valve for proper idle consistency. Your standalone should have the ability to provide a pulse to it. I removed everything relating to "emissions" equipment. The entire spider assembly bolted to the engine is gone. There will be some vacuum nipples on the lower intake that you'll need to route properly for the injectors and on the upper intake manifold most of them can be capped. You can source your boost gauge reference from the upper intake. Retain the charcoal canister to keep fuel fumes down.
I'm running a rock steady solid idle of 1000 rpms and 1050 rpms with AC on. 13.3-13.4 afr at idle.
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rlynchster (08-20-22)
08-17-22, 10:57 AM
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
If you're not worried about passing SMOG it can all go away.
Keep the BAC valve for proper idle consistency. Your standalone should have the ability to provide a pulse to it. I removed everything relating to "emissions" equipment. The entire spider assembly bolted to the engine is gone. There will be some vacuum nipples on the lower intake that you'll need to route properly for the injectors and on the upper intake manifold most of them can be capped. You can source your boost gauge reference from the upper intake. Retain the charcoal canister to keep fuel fumes down.
I'm running a rock steady solid idle of 1000 rpms and 1050 rpms with AC on. 13.3-13.4 afr at idle.
Keep the BAC valve for proper idle consistency. Your standalone should have the ability to provide a pulse to it. I removed everything relating to "emissions" equipment. The entire spider assembly bolted to the engine is gone. There will be some vacuum nipples on the lower intake that you'll need to route properly for the injectors and on the upper intake manifold most of them can be capped. You can source your boost gauge reference from the upper intake. Retain the charcoal canister to keep fuel fumes down.
I'm running a rock steady solid idle of 1000 rpms and 1050 rpms with AC on. 13.3-13.4 afr at idle.
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