theory

iTrader: (5)

Anyone ever have a problem like this:

I went to start the car today while out for lunch. Car wouldn’t start and I hear a really fast clicking from around my steering column. It sounded like a relay opening/closing really fast over and over.

I proceed to investigate and hear it coming from what I think is the big black/yellow fuel pump relay?

I unplug it to determine if the sound would stop. It stops coming from that relay since it’s unplugged and instead comes from somewhere around the kick panel area now.

I plug the fuel pump relay back in and then try to start again. It clicks and clicks but then it starts to turn over and I finally got it started.

Normally I would investigate the fuel pump relay but I'm not sure why the clicking would move to another relay or happen to 2 relays at once?

Any help?

calpatriot

sounds like your battery is dying. When you put load on it, i.e. running the starter, the voltage drops down to a point that the relays can't stay activated, and ocscillate between contact and non-contact. Try a jump start; if that works, have the charging system checked. Prepare to buy a new battery.

theory

iTrader: (5)

I just checked and the battery measured in at 12.6 vdc and it's approximately 3-4 years old. I'll try getting it tested at a parts store.

Any other ideas? This is a very annoying intermittent problem.

calpatriot

The battery voltage doesn't mean much unless it is tested under load. A dying battery develops an internal resistance, but that does not affect the voltage out unless you are drawing a large current load. Pull the battery and take it into a shop for testing. They will charge it, and then test it under load, and test it for holding a charge.

My bet is that it will fail the load test, i.e. the voltage will go way down under load.

A 3-4 year old battery is probably given you most or all of its useful life.

I'd swap it for a Sears DieHard, start the car and drive it into Sear where they will test the full charging system for $10.

theory

iTrader: (5)

Took the battery in but it passed. The only thing he said was that the battery was a little low on water which he topped up.

Today it happened again. I check the battery terminals and on the + was hot and the - was ambient temp, is this normal?

Could a bad connection at the terminals cause the problem?

calpatriot

Yes, though it is more likely that the battery is not being charged fully by the alternator. The most common fault is the failure of one of the diodes in the diode bridge in the alternator; it shorts, causes reverse flow and cuts down the voltage out at all but high rpms. Thus the battery does not get a full charge.

Jump start it, go by Sears and get the $10 starting/charging system check. If they come up with a 'diode pattern bad' fault, then you know the answer. Then it is time either to replace the bridge or swap the alternator for a rebuild.

They will clean the connectors on the battery as well.

If the alternator is putting out normally, then start to look for a short in the electrical system somewhere that is discharging the battery for you.

You can also charge the battery up on a bench charger, and then leave it sit overnight not connected to the car. Reinstall in the am; if it starts right up it is holding a charge; if not, it is discharging internally and you need a new battery.