MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

So I am finishing up my build now and at this point I want to test the new fuel system to check for leaks, etc.

I jumpered the yellow connector on the passengers side shock tower. When I turn the key to on....nothing. I get the standard beep when the door is open and the headlights work, but nothing else really. I tried applying 12v to the fuel pump and it does work fine. Out of curiosity I tried the starter as well but that does nothing.

I checked the engine bay fuses and the fuses inside and they all look fine. The main relay does not click, but clicks when I apply voltage to that and I followed the fsm procedure to check it for continuity and it checks out ok.

First off, I want to know if having other items disconnected would cause this issue. I haven't yet hooked up the trailing coil, or the AFM or anything on the UIM.

If I just need to connect that stuff first I could understand that, but I feel like something is off.

Car had zero electrical issues before the build. It may help to note that I relocated the battery but everything relating to that checks out. Car is an 87 t2

satch

iTrader: (1)

The 15 amp engine fuse could be blown (interior fuse box). Engine fuse powers the B/W wire in the two wire main relay plug w/key to on. It also powers the top row center position B/W wire at the circuit opening relay w/key to on.

Your ignition switch might not be powered. W/key to on the turn signals and wipers should work. If the starter does not work then it's more likely that the switch is not powered. The Black cable connected to the main fuse in the engine fuse box on the side of the box closest to the trailing coil drops down below the box by a foot and mates w/a like cable/wire. This then runs to the ignition switch. If left unconnected then all that you explained would occur.

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

So.... I'm not quite sure what happened but I kept trying the key and eventually I heard the main relay click and everything started working. Haven't tried the starter yet though. I'll post back if there are more issues.

Satch thanks for the input. I did attempt to look for the connector below the fuse block like you suggested. I couldn't find it, but I may have just happened to jostle something into place.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like your ignition switch might be having issues such that it works sometimes but not all. There is A Black cable coming from the main fuse on the side of the engine fuse box closest to the trailing coil. If you follow this cable you have to find the connector between the two cables for the length of the cable is very short. If this connection was loose it could possibly be a cause for some of your issues as well.

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

So I checked that cable and if I am following you correctly, I'm pretty sure it's just fine. So now I have no starter but everything else is working fine. Would it be best to assume the starter may be bad or is there a good test I could do for the ignition?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Do you know if your car requires you to depress the clutch to start the car or not. And does your car have the factory alarm or not?

MickeytFC

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Clutch should be in. I'm not sure if there is an alarm. I doubt it, but I don't know what to look for.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There would be a relay next to the main relay if the car has the alarm and the relay would have one plug w/four wires. If you have the relay then the thick Black/Green wire has voltage w/key to start and clutch depressed. The relay could be bypassed by jumpering the B/W to the thick B/G wire (not thin B/G wire). W/key to start and clutch depressed the thick B/G wire must have voltage. If it does not then your issue is the interlock switch or the ignition switch. If the B/G wire does have voltage as noted then the voltage would find its way to the B/W wire w/the jumper in place and the B/W wire runs to the starter solenoid and thus the starter should engage.

If you do not have the relay then there will be a Blue plug w/3 wires near the trailing coil. It has a B/G, B/W and a light Green wire (on the other side of the plug there would be a jumper wire mating the B/G and B/W wires. In this case the B/G wire comes from the clutch interlock switch and the B/W wire runs to the starter. (In either case, if the B/W wire was jumpered to voltage then the starter should engage w/key to start and clutch depressed).

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

Ok, there is no alarm. If I run voltage to the B/W wire on the connector the starter will spin. This happens with voltage and without the key in the ignition. (Does this suggest something odd? Since you stated it should happen with key on/clutch in.)

The starter solenoid is still not operating and kicking the gear out to the flywheel. Ill continue searching because I'm sure there are more threads on starters not working.

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so two more bits of information. Checked for continuity on the interlock switch and that is good.

Checked voltage at the S wire on the starter (Pg. 5-20 of engine electrical FSM)
Only getting 5.5v when key is to start. FSM states that if < 8v then there is a malfunction in the wiring. What wiring are they referring to? Internal to the solenoid, or wiring leading to the starter itself?

Shorting the terminals (B ans S in diagram) with a screwdriver makes the starter spin, but it will not engage the flywheel.

satch

iTrader: (1)

First off I stated w/key to start and not to on. Secondly, if you don't have the starter cut relay then as previously stated you would just have the Blue plug with the three wires on one side (B/W, B/G and light Green). Again, with the key turned to start and the clutch depressed the B/G wire must have voltage. Does it? If the plug has the jumper in place as it should then the voltage from the B/G wire is transferred to the B/W wire and this is why the starter then engages. Understand?

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

Ok, thanks for reiterating that point. Forgive my electrical ignorance. B/G wire with key to START and clutch in gets 11.9v

Checked for continuity between the B/W wire and the other end where it connects to the starter and it seems to be good. Starter is out of the car now and I'm going to get it tested.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Nothing unusual about the first statement. When the ignition switch is turned to on voltage on the B/R wire at the switch goes on a trip to the interlock switch. It waits for the clutch to be depressed. Once depressed the voltage on the B/R wire visits the B/G wire in the switch. After taking a quick look around the voltage on the B/G wires takes a journey to the Blue plug where it uses the jumper wire to allow it to say hello to the B/W wire which then tell the voltage you're going to the solenoid on the starter. Now if voltage was applied to the B/W wire then it bypasses the ignition switch and the interlock switch so what they are doing is completely irrelevant to the voltage directly applied to the B/W wire. Okay?

Now if you only have about 5 volts at the starter solenoid w/key to start then that might not be sufficient to engage the starter solenoid properly thus you have a draw occurring which should not be happening.

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

What would cause a draw like that? Would it be best to remove that wiring harness and look for some sort of broken wiring? Sadly I re-wrapped that harness after inspecting it and everything looked fine.

The starter did test bad, they couldn't get the solenoid to extend. But I'm still concerned about the low voltage at the solenoid like you are saying.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Poor battery connections or the connection to the solenoid could be bad or further up the B/W wire where it's jumpered to the B/G wire or the interlock switch which you can bypass those two wires (B/R and B/G) with a jumper and then remeasure at the starter solenoid to see if there is an improvement or not.

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

So although I was only getting 5v to the starter, I replaced the starter and she cranks just fine! Thanks for the help Satch. I fear I will have more trouble in the future but for now I am happy and learned a bit.