Electrical Problem??? Maybe EMS
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Brap Brap Psshh
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Electrical Problem??? Maybe EMS
I've gone to 3 rotary specialist and a family friend who's a technician, and I can't figure out this problem I'm having. So let me tell what's happening, what I've checked and hopefully maybe you'll have some ideas as to what is going on.
I'll start her up (89 non-turbo) she runs fine, no misfire, very smooth. So I'll drive her forr about 15 minutes of actual driving (keeping the rpm range from 3-4k) Then I'll let off the gas at some point, and when I get back on the throttle she barely runs. She idles okay but when I try to get her goin it acts like I only have like 30hp (almost stalls tryin to start from zero) She doesn't sound choppy or anything, the engine still runs smooth, but no power. If I floor the throttle, she really bogs out and almost stalls. So I turn her off and back on and she runs good again! Its like it resets whatever is happening. So she drives fine for 10 to 15 minutes and does it again! What is doing this?
I've replaced spark plugs, plug wires, checked the fuel pressure, had the MAF cleaned, replaced my crank angle sensor, and had a mechanic hot wire the ignition coils so it had constant power and the problem still happened. He's a rotary specialist and told me he had no idea what it is. He told me to take it to Mazda, but I don't want to pay dealer prices to fix this! Please help!!!
I'll start her up (89 non-turbo) she runs fine, no misfire, very smooth. So I'll drive her forr about 15 minutes of actual driving (keeping the rpm range from 3-4k) Then I'll let off the gas at some point, and when I get back on the throttle she barely runs. She idles okay but when I try to get her goin it acts like I only have like 30hp (almost stalls tryin to start from zero) She doesn't sound choppy or anything, the engine still runs smooth, but no power. If I floor the throttle, she really bogs out and almost stalls. So I turn her off and back on and she runs good again! Its like it resets whatever is happening. So she drives fine for 10 to 15 minutes and does it again! What is doing this?
I've replaced spark plugs, plug wires, checked the fuel pressure, had the MAF cleaned, replaced my crank angle sensor, and had a mechanic hot wire the ignition coils so it had constant power and the problem still happened. He's a rotary specialist and told me he had no idea what it is. He told me to take it to Mazda, but I don't want to pay dealer prices to fix this! Please help!!!
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It sounds like the series five engine is going into LIMP mode. It goes into Limp MODE if the OMP (electrical object) fails. I'd suggest checking out the OMP per the LUBRICATION section of the FSM.
You might first check the engine codes and if you have a code, then see if it's the OMP fail code. See the FUEL AND EMISSIONS section of the FSM for the codes.
You might first check the engine codes and if you have a code, then see if it's the OMP fail code. See the FUEL AND EMISSIONS section of the FSM for the codes.
#3
Rotary $ > AMG $
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It sounds like the series five engine is going into LIMP mode. It goes into Limp MODE if the OMP (electrical object) fails. I'd suggest checking out the OMP per the LUBRICATION section of the FSM.
You might first check the engine codes and if you have a code, then see if it's the OMP fail code. See the FUEL AND EMISSIONS section of the FSM for the codes.
You might first check the engine codes and if you have a code, then see if it's the OMP fail code. See the FUEL AND EMISSIONS section of the FSM for the codes.
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html
Bet you find 26 and 27 (
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Brap Brap Psshh
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Damnit, this last guy, Jacob I took it to, said the OMP was coming up. He said it was the oil metering pump, but he said it wasn't causing it. Thats now definately what... I'm hoping it is. Is it an easy fix, should I even take it to the Mazda Dealership?
#5
Rotary $ > AMG $
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Replace it yourself or get you 'Mazda Guy' to replace it.
Don't drive the car at all till you get it replaced. If I were you, I would try to guilt trip the mechanic that pulled the codes and didn't fix the car into putting the OMP on free, or maybe at half price. After all, you paid him and he missed it.
If you have to drive it in the mean time, add about 1.5 oz of 2 stroke engine oil per gallon of gas to the gas tank. If you have half a tank, add 12 oz, if the tank is full add 24 oz. This will lube the engine and protect it till the OMP is replaced. You should probably mix the calculated amount of oil into to a gallon of gas, then add that gallon to the tank to help the oil mix up and to keep from slugging your engine with too much oil at first.
Good Luck, Easy fix!
Last edited by jackhild59; 04-22-08 at 02:40 PM.
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