xUnKnOwNx

this just happens randomly. the first time it happened was a month ago.

i tried to start my car and it wouldnt crank, tried it again and it started. so i paid no attention to it. but as i was driving. everytime i stepped on the brakes. the deck would power off and power back on. got home parked my car, that night when i tried to start it again, same thing, no crank. tried it again and again, and nothing. my powered seatbelts would not work, nor my alarm. in order to get it to start again, i had to use a battery pack to jump my car. ever since then, my car worked fine with no problems.

so today, i went to work, came back home as usual, no problems. (i didnt leave the lights on or anything.) then my friend called me up to goto his house. went to my car and tried to start it as usual and it wouldnt crank. so i had my roommate jump start my car for me. i can get it to start, but after driving it and turning off the car, im not able to start the car anymore.

i dont know too much about cars. my roommate tells me it could be the alternator. what do you guys think? i have a 89 GTU-S btw...

edit: i dont think its the battery either. the battery is not that old. prolly around a year and a half to 2 years.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

When you put your key to the "ON" position, do you have power?

Nitrometano

I will recomend you to buy a test light.

First check the connections in the fuse box in the driver side kick panel and the ones in the engine compartment.

Check all the grounds including the negative battery cable that entes into the lead terminal.

Download from the internet the workshop manual. In that manuals explain how to check the ignition switch, were are the ground connections, fuse box cables, etc. I think that is one of the most valuable information available.

Also get a friend and tell him to put the ignition switch to the start position, then located the cable that active the starter selenoid and check if it have current with the test light. If not, check the starter relay, is one that is located into the drivers side fender close to the shock tower and the brake master cylinder. You need to heard it click. Also check the starter positive cable for corrosion or damage.

Alex6969

how about checking your battery and alt. for correct voltage outputs? they can do this for free at autozone. also check your connections under the hood. how do the battery terminals look? are they all crusty? Also check your fuses, especially the one marked "Main".

xUnKnOwNx

when i put the key to "ON" i get some power and and then it fades out in a few seconds.

unfortunately, i dont know much about cars, and i dont have any car equipment. so i cant test the voltage or check the wirings. even if i had equipment, i wont know how to doit. ill prolly bring it to a shop and have it checked out.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Bad battery terminals, or wires or a loose connection. Check the ground on the starter and check your fuse block too.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

if that happens, be on the safe side and get new terminals, battery replaced, and get an alternator, and maybe battery cables.

also make sure the alternator belt is tight. if not check the belts condition, if it looks cracked and shows some cord replace it. if it looks good then just tighten it

xUnKnOwNx

belts look good. wires looks tighten and secured. it might be bad wires or some connection with the battery. but why would it happen all of a sudden?

my friend said it could be the battery is not being charged... or completely dead battery. but wierd thing is, the car drives fine after its been started, except for the deck powering on and off when i brake.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

The deck powering on and off is a loose battery connection, the exact same thing happened to me, the wire is loose. Watch the voltemeter when you hit a bump, more than likely the voltage drops when this happens then immediately comes back up, which is why the stereo shuts off.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Are they the stock terminals or the replacement bolt on type?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Buy a multi meter. You can get one from Radio Shack from $15. I have an "analog" one (or whatever you call the ones with the needle) and it works great. It's not as accurate to the minute detail, but it gives a wonderful "big picture".

The car will be fine while it's running because it's running off the alternator as opposed to the battery during starting/while the car is off.

ORRRRRRRRRRR..... he could diagnose things instead of throwing $200 at his car.

xUnKnOwNx

i bought one of those multi-function portable battery jumper packs from costco. it has the ability to check the battery. but im not sure if im using it correctly. i plugged the jumper cables from the battery pack to my battery and i push the "battery test" button. all the lights went on to full. but when i push that button without anything connected, all the lights went to full also. so im assuming that button tests the level of the jumper pack? it came with no instructions, and im a newb.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Looks like you're spinning your wheels, so to speak. If you are determined to fix the problem yourself, download a copy of the factory service manual from one of the links in the 2nd gen FAQ, read the electrical troubleshooting section and get the tools you need to troubleshoot the problem. Testing the battery and alternator is fairly straighforward, but you need an multimeter and the proper procedure found in the manual.

Otherwise, take the car to someone who should be able to quickly locate the problem. Good luck!

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like you have a dead battery. Call the aforementioned friend and borrow his battery for 10 minutes. Now does your car start?

NoDOHC

I will have to agree with tehmonkey, it is most likely a loose connection to the battery. The brakes light pull a significant amount of current, which may be enough to overload the loosly connected battery cables. The voltage regulator on FCs is slow responding and the alternator does not react quickly enough to compensate for this dip. As the cables are jostled going down the road, they make better or worse contact, explaining the intermittent nature of the problem.

Check both battery terminals for corrosion, both cables for damage, check the connection to the starter, all the grounds on the car and that should fix it.

Batteries don't charge themselves (although on a cold day they will sometime give a little more power if you wait a while.) If you can drive the car more than 10 miles and get it to start again, your alternator is fine.

Icemark

He has a voltmeter right on the dash... what does it say???

If the car does not start, turn the key on (but don't start the car) and look at the voltmeter... what does it say? anything under 12 volts and the battery has bad connection or the battery itself is discharged or bad.

With the engine running anything under 12.6 volts and the car is running on the battery.

With the engine running 12.6 to 13.5 volts and the alt is starting to go and can barely charge the battery.

14.4 volts is normal operating voltage when the car is running.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't trust the dash voltmeter. Mine has always read low. My gauge never reads above 12.5v and drops to 12v with my lights on. Yet, I've never had a problem.

Then again, considering you don't have a multi meter...

Icemark

it is better than the test light someone suggested in this thread.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

True. I've never thought test lights were worth a thing. Doesn't testing the voltage work the same way (just more accurate)? I always thought that if I had voltage on the wires then it was the same as having the test light come on.

So, as an aside, the op REALLY needs to buy a $15 multi meter.