sleejay

hey yay another good day...

i havent wired anything, touched anything, etc.

so everything works for months after i fixed my harness. (fixed it right, solder / heatshrink every wire).

today im warming it up before leaving for work, i turn it on, watch oil press. rise, get happy. step out to smoke a cigarette until its warmed... step out, close the door, the second the door is closed my 'room' (7.5a) fuse pops. so i replace it. instant pop. i stick a 15 in (lowest i had) until i get to work at an auto parts store... pop goes the 15. so i try for ***** and giggles... 20a... pop .... 30a... stays! everything works!

ok now wheres the short? could i have fux0red the 'door open' button at the bottom of the door sill? what should i look for? its kind of bizzare that this happened when i closed the door!

any help, really... would be appreciated.
thanks

sleejay

i dont even know where to start checking

rick_tj

Can't really help you, I have elec problems on my own. Radio won't turn on, ceiling lights won't turn on, but just recently the idiot lights started turning on, and just now the seatbelt buzzer decided to work.

Icemark

Man, I don't know how many times I have to post this...

Never ever ever put a higher value fuse in when one blows. The fuse is to protect the wiring. Putting a larger value fuse in allows the wiring to melt into little tiny peices of copper and lets the Genie out, potentially causing the whole car to catch on fire and burn down.

So if your car has not burnt to the ground, you will need to put the proper value fuse in.

The room fuse feeds the Radio, the CPU, the clock warning panel, the auto tranny computer, the engine computer as well as the domelight circuit.

You can unplug each item at a time to see if the problem is with that unit. If the proper value fuses still blow then you will need to trace down the actual harnesses to see what is shorted.

Icemark

and did I say: Never ever ever ever ever ever ever put a higher value fuse in place of a blown one???

sleejay

yea i know, i didnt leave it in for more than half a second, i didnt even push it all the way in, just waited to see if it'd pop

SUPEROTARYPOWER

ICEMARK a car will not burn DOWN! Shows how much you know! Running a direct wire without any Fuse would cause a overheating fire, Running it with a higher Value Fuse upwards to a 30 from a 15 for example would just fry the electronics eventually not allowing it to work correctly!!! I swear why do people think your so smart?

SUPEROTARYPOWER

but yeah from how you act i bet you are going to think i agree you should up the value in fuses which i do not agree with. I also agree ONLY use the correct fuse value....

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

slpin

iTrader: (9)

POTENTIALLY
obviously, you have NOT worked with cars long enough to see or experience an electrical fire....

p.s... stfu and gfy

SUPEROTARYPOWER

Slipn your right I always use fuses

Wankel7

Here is the wiring schematic for your car....

You can trace what the room fuse powers...



Icemark is correct...

CBs and fuses are there to protect the wiring....not the equipment attached to it.

A wiring fire is a real thing....just look at electrical fires in airplanes...wire fires.

James

SUPEROTARYPOWER

If there is a sudden electrical spike the fuse will blow...A simple 12 guage wire easily will not fry before a 30 amp fuse

Wankel7

But the wires that are running off of that circuit...are not exactly....12 gauge...

slpin

iTrader: (9)

i was talking abotu electrical fire due to the person using improper fuse....

Icemark

No, you are completely clueless and should stop replying to any thread here until you have learned the most basics of automotive tech.

#1: A fuse blows at 110% of its value. So a 10 amp fuse is actually blowing at a draw of 11 amps, etc.

#2 The fuse protects the wiring. If you put a 20 amp fuse on a 20 gauge wire that is pinched or shorted, the wire will melt and the surrounding area will burn, but the fuse will remain intact. Of course in this case the member that started this thread is not using 12 awg wires, but rather he is using the stock 20 awg wire.

I have seen this multiple times in multiple cars in the 20+ years I have been working on cars and in the 7 years I worked at DEI designing and supporting and teaching about how automotive electrical systems work, and how to install them so fires don't happen. And I have seen 12 awg burn with a 30 amp fuse as well, melting the insulation off the wire, and burning like a nice bugs bunny cartoon fuse through the carpet and floor covering.

So IMO your BS answers for what works makes you sounds like you work at a circuit city, because your answers in this thread (and several others) show you have no clue on how cars work. I would suggest you sell your car now and take the bus, because the only thing worse than someone who knows nothing about cars, is the person that thinks he knows, but is completely clueless.

<edit, and the thread has been pruned for useless posts mostly by super>
>