PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

My luck cant get any worse.. Oil cooler and lines bust, and the steering rack busts a seal and now this all in a week. But the problem is my battery goes dead.. I just checked it with ign off and I had 12.88 volts. When iI turn the key to start it the gauge drops to about 9-10 before the starter even starts to turn. I know the starter takes a lot of battery but what would cause the voltage to drop just when the key is on? It started about 3 days ago and I thought my battery was going bad but I had it checked and it tested good. I dont think I have a short but you never know with a 23 year old car.. Not sure how different the electrical system is between s4 and s5 but mine is a s4. Any help would be appreciated and hopefully I can track this down.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You state that the voltage drops w/key to start and then you state the voltage drops w/key to on. Which is it? Dropping under 10 volts when starting is normal. Dropping under 10 volts w/key to on isn't. If it drops under 10 w/key to on then you first need to check what happens when the key is turned to ACC. If the voltage remains at a normal number then the two ACC fuses in the interior fuse box are not responsible for the drop. So if that isn't the problem then turn the key to on and start removing the IG1 and IG2 fuses one by one and check the battery voltage after each fuse is pulled to see if you can narrow down which electrical circuit is the root for the drop. Also, measure the battery voltage at the battery with a voltmeter under each scenario and don't rely on the gauge for input. Lastly, make sure your battery grounds are in good condition.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

The voltage drops when key is to ign. I will go check those out right now.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Update on voltage with different things.
*all before pulling ign 1 and 2

These were when E Fan was unplugged
-Battery 12.88
-Key to acc 12.86
-Key to on 12.76
-Car Idleing 13.78 at the battery
-Car idling 14.42 at the alt terminal
-Key back acc then to on again 12.26

Now with E fan hooked up
-Battery 12.26
-Key to acc 12.25
-Key to on 12.1
-Car idleing 13.58 at battery
-Car idleing 14.3 at alt terminal

This was with a new battery too. Maybe my old one had a bad cell but it tested good at Advance Auto parts. But then again my bad old alternator tested good 5 times up there and took to a diff shop and it was bad and put a new one in and it charged my battery again. So Im not sure.. Ill go check voltage when Ign 1 and 2 are pulled.

satch

iTrader: (1)

With the E-fan disconnected your voltage readings look normal. Not sure how you have your E-fan hooked up electrically speaking but if the battery is dropping over a half of volt w/o the key in the ignition then something is not correct.

When I spoke of IG1 and IG2 fuses these are located in the interior fuse box. The Engine fuse is an example of an IG1 fuse while the fuse that powers your wipers would be an example of an IG2 fuse.

You need to see how your car performs over time w/the E-fan disconnected unless of course it is your only fan. If it supplements your clutch fan (factory) then leave it disconnected. Perhaps you need to focus on why the fan is pulling so much power w/o the car running and there is no need to pull the group of fuses I mentioned given the info you provided.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Ok.. I have the Efan ground hooked to the frame. The positive lead to the Efan is hooked into the power window fuse in the interior fuse box. I do not have the stock clutch fan on the car anymore. I still have it though. Ill go start the car and let the battery charge back up without the Efan hooked up and turn the car off and see what the voltage is to the battery. But Ive had the Efan hooked up for about 2 months now and this problem just started a few days ago.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Just checked with Efan not hooked up and readings are

- car running 13.78 once more
-Cut the car off and voltage was 12.66 and would slowly drop .01 volt every 2-3 seconds.. I stopped checking after it dropped about .1

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fuse that you have the E-fan connected to (power windows) only has power w/key to on so there should be no drain evident when the E-fan is hooked up and not working and also with the key not in the ignition and turned to "on."

EDIT: When you turn the car off the slow voltage drop occurs for a while then should stop so it is normal to see this type of drop for a short period of time. Electrical components can take a while before they totally power down so this is not alarming.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Should I hook the fan up to a toggle switch? Would that be better than having it into the power window fuse?

satch

iTrader: (1)

From what you state you have a fan that turns on when the key is on. Most people will take it a step further and have it turn on at certain temps. By having it wired to a toggle switch just gives you more freedom of when it is turned on or not but what if you go for a drive and forget to turn it on? You could rely on the temp gauge to tell you that the fan was left off but do you want to rely on looking at the temp gauge as a reminder that you left it off when indeed it should be on. What if the temp gauge is not accurate. The idea of a toggle switch really doesn't help you for the fan should "only" use power when the key is on and not use power with the key "not" to on.

EDIT: Even if you had a toggle switch it still would have to be connected to a power source. So whether it was the window fuse or another fuse that derives its power with the key to on is immaterial.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Where would i get the switch so it will turn on at certain temps? But im not thinking that is the problem that is causing the battery to drain. It seems like it but why would it just start after about 2 months of having it wired like that?

satch

iTrader: (1)

This has been done by other members such as "Clokker" and so on, so you would need to do an "advanced search" on the subject for info. Who knows why something works one way on one day and then not the next. This is life? Just keep an eye on things and see if anything changes from what you observed today.

EDIT: One thing you could do I guess is to remove the 60 amp BTN fuse from the engine fuse box and reconnect the fan and see if it still pulls voltage from the battery. You don't need to use the key. Just check the voltage at the battery and I would "pull the fuse after first reconnecting the fan and checking for voltage at the battery before and after the fuse is pulled and see if there is any difference."

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Ill search it. I pulled the BTN fuse and voltage stayed the same..

satch

iTrader: (1)

What was the voltage before you pulled it?

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

12.34,

satch

iTrader: (1)

Replace the BTN fuse if you haven't already and then pull the window fuse with the fan plug connected and see if the voltage bumps back up. Also, when you connect the fan does it ever turn on? Lastly, check the back of the alternator where the two wire plug is and tell us what wire is on top for it should be Black/White on top and White/Black on bottom.

EDIT: when the fan is connected can the windows go down or up w/o the key?

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

White with blue is on left and white with black is on the right.. I swapped to the S5 alternator when my s4 went bad.

The power windows only work when the key is to on.

Am I checking the voltage when the power window fuse is out and the fan wire still in place to get power or not?

What do you mean when you say "when you connect the fan does it ever turn on?" When it is connected it only turns on when the key is to on, as if the car is running

satch

iTrader: (1)

I would first check the voltage w/fuse removed and the fan wire intact. If the voltage returns to normal then if it's not too much trouble I would remove the fan wire at the fuse and check the voltage "before/after" you put the fuse back in.

And I was wondering if the fan ever worked w/o the key but you answered that point.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

Voltage readings are:

11.97 w/ fuse removed and fan wire in
12.6 w/ fuse in and wire out
11.97 w/fuse and wire in

satch

iTrader: (1)

This might sound a bit silly but could you shoot you car! Seriously though, where is the ground for this fan?

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

I got so mad the other day when the power steering rack busted a seal i was about to send the car to the junkyard. But didnt cause I love the FC. It is on the frame right where the Stock Air snorkle bolts to the car in front of the radiator.. I used the existing hole from the bolts from the snorkle.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I must ask, but there are definitely only two wires connected to the fan? I know what you are going to say but I have to ask. Secondly, redo the ground for the fan and if that requires some sanding and the use of dielectric grease then so be it. Does this fan have a backup battery supply? Do you know how many amps the fuse that powers the fan should be? Was this info included in the instructions?

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

I pulled the fan from a junk car we had. A 96 Yota Camry and it cools the engine enough to where it was about a 1/8 lower on the temp gauge. I had it going to the battery before, but swapped it to the frame. The answer to your question is yes, only 2 wires. No backup battery supply.

satch

iTrader: (1)

For starters, I would switch the ground back to the battery.

PistonLessRX

iTrader: (4)

I can go do that now. Will that make much of a difference?