IanS

iTrader: (4)

Im thinking that since i dont have cruise control anyways, I can simply leave that stuff unplugged. Shouldnt hurt anything. I am thinking that this interlock switch is the starter safety switch at the "bottom" of the clutch whereas the cruise control one must be the "top" switch. With the brake switch - thats the one that tells the brake lights to illuminate. Gonna have to plug that one back in lol. Gonna run out and check it out real quick. DONT LEAVE please...

HAILERS

The heater and a/c wire is located on the blower motor/housing.....somewhere, somehow. See jpg.

At the top of the 88wiring dwg, anywhere you see the 1 followed by (2) means it's coming from the METER fuse. Then follow that B/Y wire to where ever it terminates.

Second jpg: Backup lights. The switch is the one on the left side of the transmission. Answer this. Do your backup lights work right now?

Third jpg: Meter and Warning. Or the plugs to the combination meter tach/oil press/speedometer etc

The elect fan: the control unit is in the passengers foot well, way up and to the right. Six socket connector., The fan RELAY is up in front of the radiator or at least it's elect plug should be there.

Fifth jpg: A lot going on in this one. Possible problem somewhere at the plugs shown here.

HAILERS

The Theft

MAYBE, maybe tomorrow I'll try to find where that Black/Yellow comes off the fuse box in the interior. I think it's one of the three elect plugs on the aft side of the fuse box. I may be wrong. If it's on the outboard side...........I'm not going any further. Seems too much trouble to unbolt that fuse box to get at the outboard side of it.

The idea would be to depin it to see how that works out. Not that smart of a thing to do. I know you'd lose the power to the engine fuse. Tomorrow.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

OK, there are 2 plugs on the brake pedal. I unplugged the one with the B/Y wire. UNplugged the upper clutch switch also. Also took out the warning lights thing.

As far as the blower motor, mine doesnt work. There is a rather large plug that I could not find the mate to when I put the blower motor in. That plug has a B/Y wire and it appears to either go through the firewall or up behind the dash. Couldnt tell where exactly as there is lots of wire coverings appearing stock under there.

I want to say all of the wiring has been replaced that looked "hacked" or otherwise "fucked up looking". I know that the dash wiring has ALL been replaced with wiring from a different car that did not have these problems. Not sure if this info helps at all lol.

HAILERS

If this converted car has a Boost gauge, meaning they changed out the instrument cluster, then they could have repinned that connector wrong. Not applicable if you've the stock n/a instrument cluster.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

No boost gauge. From what I remember..... The dash wiring did come out of a TII car... Heres some pics for ya.





The second pic is the other side of the B/Y wire that plugs into the lower green connector. The one that has a yellow plug plugged into it, not the 2nd one that has a green connector plugged into the green plug (the ones my fingers are touching).

The B/Y wire on the left side of pic 1 is connected to the back of the SOFT TOP fuse (30A next to thumb), which does nothing when is unplugged.

HAILERS

On a convertible there would be a Black/Yellow wire with the soft top fuse. It's not related to OUR black/yellow wire.

You might have done this already. Put all the fuses back in. Main relay pulls in. Now pull the ILLUMINATION fuse and see what happens. Leave all other fuses in at this time. If the main relay does not relax, then pull, one at a time, the other fuses on that same row with the Illumination fuse and see what happens.

I'm trying to figure out what OUR black/yellow is tied into by doing the above. The row with the illunination fuse has batt power all the time. Our row has power only with the key to ON. or better.

About your fuse box pictures: The large black/white wire on the left has a black/red just above it. The next wire over from the black/red is brown. Now I can't see the next two wires over from that brown wire. So look and make sure there is a black/yellow on that same row. That is OUR wire.

I have not figured how to remove those wires from the fuse box. I'm still not sure we want to.

HAILERS

At the back of the instrument panes are two ROUND plugs. Have you removed those two plugs to see what happened? Actually those two round plugs are part of a short harness. That short harness has a rectangular plug on the other end. You could just remove that rectangular plug instead of removing the instrument panel and undoing the round plugs. I think you can get to the rectangular plug under the dash. Close to where your working in your last pictures.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

OK so while unplugginh the rectangular plugs under the dash on the drivers side, I saw a 2 wire plug under there that has a black/yellow wire. I unplugged it and the relay kicked off. WOOT!!! Ok, so here are the wire colors of the plug. First off though the plug is white on both sides and is right next to the clutch pedal and near the 2 big rectangular blue plugs. One side hooks into all the other wiring and the other side runs up behind the dash somewhere.

You may have told me to unplug this wire before lol. So far I have unplugged most of the plugs in that area and not sure where this stuff goes.

Anyways, on with the plug and wire colors...

On the female side of the plug (male connectors) we got Black/Yellow and Yellow/Blue

Male side of plug (female connectors) Blue/Red and Green/White

With this plug unplugged the gauges work, the relay kicks in and out, and the car starts and runs with the key just like a normal car should.

I gotta tell you I am getting pretty excited. I really think we are getting VERY close to the main cause.

HAILERS

Can you take a picture of that plug? Please.

EDIT: A possibility is attached. It MIGHT be that clutch switch is connected to the wrong *other* plug. Wrong *other* would be the plug with L/R and W/G

HAILERS

This is the only Blue/Red....Green/White plug that I could find. They're fairly close to each other.

That plug should not be connected to the other one. Obvious. Keep on trucking. I was about to grab that pail I carry in the boat, and .........bail.

Their should have been a diode plug/assy plugged to the B/Y..Y/L. Its called F-55 in the jpg above this one.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

The long wire dangling is what was plugged into the other one below the silver box looking deal on the clutch to the right and down of the large wired plug with the Black/Green wire. Anyways, yeah I had one ignition switch cover that didnt have a light for it and one that does. Looks like Im gonna use the one that does lol. I never even thought about it because I was using the one without light and never noticed an extra plug. Must have been because it was ran to the wrong location.

OK so 2 things.









******' A YOU ARE THE MAN

and

Whats your paypal addy?

No idea what F-55 is, but I doubt its needed too much.

HAILERS

I'll look at my car(s) tomorrow and identify the diode assy. I THINK its barely shown in your picture. It seems white and after the white part of the plug it gets kind of cream colored. I think it should have a diode symbol on it's side, maybe.

I'll take a picture of it tomorrow.

It's fairly easy to see what was happening. We KNOW the B/Y is connected to the same row of fuses that the ENGINE fuse is on. We know that that row only should get voltage when the key is to ON or better.

The L/R wire of the igniton key cylinder is hot all the time. It comes off the battery bus just above our ENGINE fuse row of fuses, or IG1 as they call it.

So the L/R was backfeeding everything on the row of fuses on IG1 all day long. Wheeee. The nightmare is over.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

Um, you forgot to answer the question.

I can see if the plug reaches that tomorrow. Barely any room for movement for that plug.