The electrical nightmare to end all nightmares
09-21-08, 09:33 AM
#26
I havent gone out yet today, but with the engine not running and the ignition switch set to OFF I did unplug the black and black/white plug and the main relay did not relax. In fact I unplugged all of the plugs in the ignition harness area one by one and none of them relaxed the main relay or the circuit opening relay.
This is when I started checking voltages - when the plug was unplugged. Thats why I asked about the black and black/white plug getting 12 on each of those wires. It seemed odd to me that 2 wires in one plug that were different colors would both be seeing 12 constant.
So if the fuel pump wiring is ok and the cicuit opening relay is NOT the problem, is there anything else that is hooked to that black/white wire that COULD backfeed into it? I wouldnt think that there would be very many circuits that use that same turn on wire.
This is when I started checking voltages - when the plug was unplugged. Thats why I asked about the black and black/white plug getting 12 on each of those wires. It seemed odd to me that 2 wires in one plug that were different colors would both be seeing 12 constant.
So if the fuel pump wiring is ok and the cicuit opening relay is NOT the problem, is there anything else that is hooked to that black/white wire that COULD backfeed into it? I wouldnt think that there would be very many circuits that use that same turn on wire.
Last edited by IanS; 09-21-08 at 09:45 AM.
09-21-08, 11:06 AM
#27
As far as I can tell, your main relay is "stuck", I know you say you can hear it but for your engine to keep running the main relay coil has to be drawing the contacts in. My guess it that somehow it is getting voltage at all times.
Try with the car off and the key out of the ignition, taking the plug off of the Main relay and testing the voltage with the positive lead of you meter on the black/white wire and the negative lead on the black wire. ( this is a round connector)
If you see 12 volts then you know something is wired into it giving it power where it shouldn't be. If this is the case you cant find where the power is coming from you could put a switch in series either on the black/white wire or the black wire right near the plug for a ghetto fix.
Now also when you have the relay out you could check the resistance across the pins of the relay.
Between the pins that the b/l and B wires went to you should see a resistance (not sure off the top of my head what it is) but you should not see zero or infinity. (again on the round connector)
Now between the B/G and B/Y you should see infinity and between the W/L and B/W you should see infinity. (Square connector)
Good luck
Try with the car off and the key out of the ignition, taking the plug off of the Main relay and testing the voltage with the positive lead of you meter on the black/white wire and the negative lead on the black wire. ( this is a round connector)
If you see 12 volts then you know something is wired into it giving it power where it shouldn't be. If this is the case you cant find where the power is coming from you could put a switch in series either on the black/white wire or the black wire right near the plug for a ghetto fix.
Now also when you have the relay out you could check the resistance across the pins of the relay.
Between the pins that the b/l and B wires went to you should see a resistance (not sure off the top of my head what it is) but you should not see zero or infinity. (again on the round connector)
Now between the B/G and B/Y you should see infinity and between the W/L and B/W you should see infinity. (Square connector)
Good luck
09-21-08, 11:36 AM
#28
Update: I checked out the circuit opening relay and it seems that it at least TRIES to kick in and out. I can feel something happening but there is a delay when connecting or disconnecting the battery. This doesnt change when the key is ON or OFF.
As for the fuel pump wiring. I am not 100% on if the plug used is the correct one. It may have been a different plug that happened to fit into the female side of the plug and then spliced. See pics.
Pic 1 - This is the correct relay yes???
Pic 2 through 4 - This is the fuel pump wiring. Yes, it is actually that crappy looking.
As for the fuel pump wiring. I am not 100% on if the plug used is the correct one. It may have been a different plug that happened to fit into the female side of the plug and then spliced. See pics.
Pic 1 - This is the correct relay yes???
Pic 2 through 4 - This is the fuel pump wiring. Yes, it is actually that crappy looking.
09-21-08, 11:42 AM
#29
As far as I can tell, your main relay is "stuck", I know you say you can hear it but for your engine to keep running the main relay coil has to be drawing the contacts in. My guess it that somehow it is getting voltage at all times.
Try with the car off and the key out of the ignition, taking the plug off of the Main relay and testing the voltage with the positive lead of you meter on the black/white wire and the negative lead on the black wire. ( this is a round connector)
If you see 12 volts then you know something is wired into it giving it power where it shouldn't be. If this is the case you cant find where the power is coming from you could put a switch in series either on the black/white wire or the black wire right near the plug for a ghetto fix.
Now also when you have the relay out you could check the resistance across the pins of the relay.
Between the pins that the b/l and B wires went to you should see a resistance (not sure off the top of my head what it is) but you should not see zero or infinity. (again on the round connector)
Now between the B/G and B/Y you should see infinity and between the W/L and B/W you should see infinity. (Square connector)
Good luck
Try with the car off and the key out of the ignition, taking the plug off of the Main relay and testing the voltage with the positive lead of you meter on the black/white wire and the negative lead on the black wire. ( this is a round connector)
If you see 12 volts then you know something is wired into it giving it power where it shouldn't be. If this is the case you cant find where the power is coming from you could put a switch in series either on the black/white wire or the black wire right near the plug for a ghetto fix.
Now also when you have the relay out you could check the resistance across the pins of the relay.
Between the pins that the b/l and B wires went to you should see a resistance (not sure off the top of my head what it is) but you should not see zero or infinity. (again on the round connector)
Now between the B/G and B/Y you should see infinity and between the W/L and B/W you should see infinity. (Square connector)
Good luck
I will check the values on the main relay just to make sure that nothing is wrong with it. However, I have also tried a different main relay and saw no change.
Last edited by IanS; 09-21-08 at 11:44 AM.
09-21-08, 01:16 PM
#30
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Your post number 12 (#shown to the top right of the post) means it can't be the ignition switch.
That IS the circuit opening relay in the picture.
For a series four car, that fuel pump harness does not seem right. On all three of my series four cars, the connector is located on the back of the left rear strut tower. Maybe someone somehow moved it. I didn't think it had that much length in it, myself.
You said something earlier about if the ENGINE fuse is removed the power shuts off. That got me to thinking. That would mean to me, that the source of power has to be b/t the ignition switch and that engine fuse. Can't be AFTER the fuse or you'd still have power when the engine fuse gets pulled. Buuuuuut, there is no connection b/t the engine fuse and the igniton switch, plus you pulled all the connectors off the ignition switch and still had power.
Pull the fuel pump plug apart and see if you lose power. If you already did that, then I just forgot it. I'll think about it for a while. IF anything I just wrote isn't true, please let me know.
Someones wired into that harness somewhere and got things wrong. I'll think on it. Not ignition switch, not alternator feedback because the plug was pulled, not circuit opening relay because even though you think some action is happening when you pull it, you still have the main relay pulled in. IF the fuel pump was wired right, then pulling that circuit opening relay should have killed power to the pump in that act alone. Still, pull the plug on the pump and see how things go. Odd problem. Send me the car by UPS and I'll look at it.
By the way, connect everything up and then just pull the two wire plug off the Main Relay and see what happens. It HAS to relax if that act is done. I'm curious if it does in fact. But heck, you tried another main relay, I think and have the same problem.
That IS the circuit opening relay in the picture.
For a series four car, that fuel pump harness does not seem right. On all three of my series four cars, the connector is located on the back of the left rear strut tower. Maybe someone somehow moved it. I didn't think it had that much length in it, myself.
You said something earlier about if the ENGINE fuse is removed the power shuts off. That got me to thinking. That would mean to me, that the source of power has to be b/t the ignition switch and that engine fuse. Can't be AFTER the fuse or you'd still have power when the engine fuse gets pulled. Buuuuuut, there is no connection b/t the engine fuse and the igniton switch, plus you pulled all the connectors off the ignition switch and still had power.
Pull the fuel pump plug apart and see if you lose power. If you already did that, then I just forgot it. I'll think about it for a while. IF anything I just wrote isn't true, please let me know.
Someones wired into that harness somewhere and got things wrong. I'll think on it. Not ignition switch, not alternator feedback because the plug was pulled, not circuit opening relay because even though you think some action is happening when you pull it, you still have the main relay pulled in. IF the fuel pump was wired right, then pulling that circuit opening relay should have killed power to the pump in that act alone. Still, pull the plug on the pump and see how things go. Odd problem. Send me the car by UPS and I'll look at it.
By the way, connect everything up and then just pull the two wire plug off the Main Relay and see what happens. It HAS to relax if that act is done. I'm curious if it does in fact. But heck, you tried another main relay, I think and have the same problem.
Last edited by HAILERS; 09-21-08 at 01:19 PM.
09-21-08, 01:26 PM
#31
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Someone has done a splice job on that fuel pump harness. The large BLUE wire carries power from the circuit opening relay to the pump. The LARGE BLUE wire on the harness side of the plug, NOT the pigtail side. That BLUE wire should be mating with a black/white wire on the fuel pump pigtail side. WArning: that is from memory.
The BLACK wire on the harness side should be ground. The other wires are for low fuel and fuel gauge. Yeah, I'd pull that plug and see what happens. Cost nothing to do that.
But heck, the alien source of power HAS to be coming from b/t the ENGINE fuse and ignition switch. Has that interior fuse box been changed out by the previous owner or ????anybody?
Any 88 harness parts been put in the 87 car. That CAN make a difference as I found out in a pevious thread this year.
The BLACK wire on the harness side should be ground. The other wires are for low fuel and fuel gauge. Yeah, I'd pull that plug and see what happens. Cost nothing to do that.
But heck, the alien source of power HAS to be coming from b/t the ENGINE fuse and ignition switch. Has that interior fuse box been changed out by the previous owner or ????anybody?
Any 88 harness parts been put in the 87 car. That CAN make a difference as I found out in a pevious thread this year.
09-21-08, 01:39 PM
#32
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I'm really just mumbling outloud and suggesting things. But take a look at the jpg attached and the yellow dots I made.
See how things don't make sense? I mean, you had the plugs off the ignition switch and still had power on the main relay. THEN at one time you pulled the ENGINE fuse and power went off. The 15A fuse shown on the left of the yellow dots is the ENGINE fuse.
Sooooo, that is why it SEEMS the unauthorized power has to be coming b/t the engine fuse and the connector that attaches to the ignition switch.
I'm not saying anything new in this post. I said it in the post above this one. The graphic makes it more understandable. But I still don't understand how this can happen. That wire b/t the engine fuse and igniton has no connectors inbetween and is wrapped up under the harness wrapping. Oddddd problem.
I'm thinking on it. Can't be the fuel pump wiring, seemingly
Tell you what, I do need to know if I'm correct in what I said above. Connectors off the ignition switch........still have power to the Main Relay...........pull ENGINE fuse .........power goes off. Right?
See how things don't make sense? I mean, you had the plugs off the ignition switch and still had power on the main relay. THEN at one time you pulled the ENGINE fuse and power went off. The 15A fuse shown on the left of the yellow dots is the ENGINE fuse.
Sooooo, that is why it SEEMS the unauthorized power has to be coming b/t the engine fuse and the connector that attaches to the ignition switch.
I'm not saying anything new in this post. I said it in the post above this one. The graphic makes it more understandable. But I still don't understand how this can happen. That wire b/t the engine fuse and igniton has no connectors inbetween and is wrapped up under the harness wrapping. Oddddd problem.
I'm thinking on it. Can't be the fuel pump wiring, seemingly
Tell you what, I do need to know if I'm correct in what I said above. Connectors off the ignition switch........still have power to the Main Relay...........pull ENGINE fuse .........power goes off. Right?
09-21-08, 01:45 PM
#33
Correct (only thing that kills main relay is the ENGINE fuse). I need to run out real quick and take pics of some stuff as I DO HAVE SOME 88 WIRING in this car from the vert that the engine is from. I will unplug the fuel pump plug and see what happens also.
09-21-08, 01:53 PM
#34
This harness is from the vert. Its the one that includes the interior fuse panel. See pics. Also nothing happened when the fuel pump plug was unplugged.
Edit: The orange plug hanging there I THINK is for the vert top and other vert only things. COuld be WAY wrong on that though lol.
Edit: The orange plug hanging there I THINK is for the vert top and other vert only things. COuld be WAY wrong on that though lol.
09-21-08, 01:53 PM
#35
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A question about the alternator plug. The two wire outfit. Follow the wires. Do they go into the harness that is called the EM harness and goes over to the right side of the car/fender. Or does it connect to a harness that is in the left side of the engine bay?
And a question. Are you familiar with the two ORANGE colored elect plugs in the passengers foot well that are a part of the EM harness that attaches to the engine and ECU? I've a reason for asking. They're a pain to get at.
And a question. Are you familiar with the two ORANGE colored elect plugs in the passengers foot well that are a part of the EM harness that attaches to the engine and ECU? I've a reason for asking. They're a pain to get at.
09-21-08, 03:00 PM
#36
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You might look at the interior fuse box. Look around the fuses on the line of fuses that have the ENGINE fuse. See if it looks as if someone has installed a bastard wire in the side of any of those fuses.
Attached a jpg of the fuse box. the ENGINE fuse is pointed to with a blue line. All the fuses on that line of fuses are IG1 fed by a black/white wire.
The B/W wire that feeds all those fuses on that line of fuses, is fed by.....................the b/w wire coming FROM the igniton switch.
I'm really about to give up and sell your car!
Attached a jpg of the fuse box. the ENGINE fuse is pointed to with a blue line. All the fuses on that line of fuses are IG1 fed by a black/white wire.
The B/W wire that feeds all those fuses on that line of fuses, is fed by.....................the b/w wire coming FROM the igniton switch.
I'm really about to give up and sell your car!
Last edited by HAILERS; 09-21-08 at 03:04 PM.
09-21-08, 03:53 PM
#37
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Here's a common way to find out what is happening. Find the row of fuses the ENGINE fuse is on in the interior.
Connect ALL connectors that are off. Main relay should still be pulled in.
Now, instead of pulling the ENGINE fuse, pull, one at a time, the fuses on either side of the ENGINE fuse. I THINK you'll find the main relay will drop out when one of those other fuses is pulled out. That'll be a good starting point.
The Power Window, Turn, Meter, (Pwr Steering) fuses. One at a time.
The REASON for doing that. All those items get fed by the black/white wire coming out of the ignition switch. If the circuit they are going to, whatever it is, has a bastard wire spliced into it, then it would backfeed into the ENGINE fuse circuit. There's slight flaw to this thought, but it takes but fifteen minutes or so to do.
Connect ALL connectors that are off. Main relay should still be pulled in.
Now, instead of pulling the ENGINE fuse, pull, one at a time, the fuses on either side of the ENGINE fuse. I THINK you'll find the main relay will drop out when one of those other fuses is pulled out. That'll be a good starting point.
The Power Window, Turn, Meter, (Pwr Steering) fuses. One at a time.
The REASON for doing that. All those items get fed by the black/white wire coming out of the ignition switch. If the circuit they are going to, whatever it is, has a bastard wire spliced into it, then it would backfeed into the ENGINE fuse circuit. There's slight flaw to this thought, but it takes but fifteen minutes or so to do.
Last edited by HAILERS; 09-21-08 at 04:05 PM.
09-21-08, 05:47 PM
#38
A question about the alternator plug. The two wire outfit. Follow the wires. Do they go into the harness that is called the EM harness and goes over to the right side of the car/fender. Or does it connect to a harness that is in the left side of the engine bay?
And a question. Are you familiar with the two ORANGE colored elect plugs in the passengers foot well that are a part of the EM harness that attaches to the engine and ECU? I've a reason for asking. They're a pain to get at.
And a question. Are you familiar with the two ORANGE colored elect plugs in the passengers foot well that are a part of the EM harness that attaches to the engine and ECU? I've a reason for asking. They're a pain to get at.
Gonna go eat and I can take pics of those orange plugs when I get back. Will also check the fuse idea and let you know how that goes. I know its not the power windows as that one is already removed.
Last edited by IanS; 09-21-08 at 05:49 PM.
09-21-08, 07:48 PM
#41
OK, so blmcquig and I have figured out that the METER fuse runs the gauge cluster and possibly something else. Something else is backfeeding through the gauge cluster and powering the ENGINE fuse. We know this because with the METER fuse pulled the gauge cluster still has power when key is OFF. Volts, fuel, and coolant temp are still reading a value, not sitting at the bottom like they are supposed to.
Edit: ALso with the METER fuse unplugged, the car will start and run and will also shut off WITH THE KEY. SO, we are definitely getting closer to the main cause. Dont be posting any For Sale ads for me yet hailers lol.
Edit 2: This also explains why the turn signals always worked regardless of key position. The turn signals work with the ENGINE fuse out, but not when the METER fuse is out. So the power seemingly HAS to be coming from the METER wiring.
Edit: ALso with the METER fuse unplugged, the car will start and run and will also shut off WITH THE KEY. SO, we are definitely getting closer to the main cause. Dont be posting any For Sale ads for me yet hailers lol.
Edit 2: This also explains why the turn signals always worked regardless of key position. The turn signals work with the ENGINE fuse out, but not when the METER fuse is out. So the power seemingly HAS to be coming from the METER wiring.
Last edited by IanS; 09-21-08 at 07:57 PM.
09-21-08, 08:20 PM
#42
The wire coming out of the METER fuse is B/Y and powers the instrument (gauge) cluster. In the wiring diagrams, the B/Y wire also ends up going through the Front harness and connects to the Emissions harness (along with multiple other harnesses). Not sure if this is the same wire or not. Not sure how many times a car company reuses wire colors... Wiring diagrams kind of confuse me. Maybe if I knew how to read them better...
Last edited by IanS; 09-21-08 at 08:45 PM.
09-22-08, 03:47 AM
#43
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Here's the way things are supposed to work. You go to ON with the key. The B/W wire coming out of the ignition switch goes over to the interior fuse panel, and then feeds all the fuses on that ONE row of fuses i.e. the Engine, Meter, Power Str and Power Windows.
None of those circuits should have any power until the key is to ON and that black/white wire feeds them.
So what has happened, is someone accidently has put permanent battery power on a wire that is connected to the Meter fuse. Its on that wire all day long and is backfeeding all the other circuits, like the Engine, Power str, pwr windows etc. NOT supposed to be that way. The Meter fuse feeds a lot of things. That *wire* could be in the instrument cluster or one of the wires that is on the transmisions backup switch (fairly sure one wire there is to the Meter fuse circuit)
So what is on the METER fuse. What wires and where do they go. You'd want to find the items and pull the plug off each til you find the culprit. Well it's 3:46am but I"ll take a look. Sorry, didn't read all the threads just above this one....yet. Your real close to fixing the problem.
Last edited by HAILERS; 09-22-08 at 03:51 AM.
09-22-08, 04:15 AM
#44
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Here's a picture out of the wiring diagrams. I Tried to mark the Meter fuse items with a red dot trail. Starts down at the bottom of the picture with the 7.5 amp fuse and then there is a dotted trail to: Cruise Control system.......meters and warning lights......Backup lights........auto adjusting suspension.......Cooling fan system......Heater and airconditoning.......Theft deterrent system.....Warning and auto clock........Door lock cylinders.
It's hard to say what that black/yellow does on all those systems. I'd take a look at the ELECTRICAL FAN. Maybe someone has tapped a aftermarket fan into that plug(s).
Or Auto Adjust suspension. Those plugs would be near the left and right front strut towers (maybe rear also, I'm not familiar with that suspension).
Or pull the plugs on the instrument cluster. Or pull the WARINING light cluster plug off or?????? plug pulling time to those items til the Main Relay relaxes.
It's hard to say what that black/yellow does on all those systems. I'd take a look at the ELECTRICAL FAN. Maybe someone has tapped a aftermarket fan into that plug(s).
Or Auto Adjust suspension. Those plugs would be near the left and right front strut towers (maybe rear also, I'm not familiar with that suspension).
Or pull the plugs on the instrument cluster. Or pull the WARINING light cluster plug off or?????? plug pulling time to those items til the Main Relay relaxes.
Last edited by HAILERS; 09-22-08 at 04:19 AM.
09-22-08, 04:26 AM
#45
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Oh. Yes, there are other black/yellow wires that are not a part of this circuit. Pay no attention to them. Like the coils are powered by a black/yellow and the fuel injectors powered by a black/yellow. THEY have zip to do with Meter fuse's black/yellow.
Just the items listed in the dwg above. But I think you figured that out already. Just in case, I'm writting this. Good to see you can turn the engine off using the key now.
It's hard to say where to start looking. Just unplug the easy items first. By the way, I can guarantee it'll be the very last item you unconnect, whatever that is. Been there, done that on airplanes. ALWAYS the last fricking plug. It's written somewhere.
Looking back at this thread, I should have been on to this earlier instead of all that other stuff you had to do. When unplugging the alt small plug had no effect, I should have realized it was backfeeding at the fuse box. LIve and learn.
Just the items listed in the dwg above. But I think you figured that out already. Just in case, I'm writting this. Good to see you can turn the engine off using the key now.
It's hard to say where to start looking. Just unplug the easy items first. By the way, I can guarantee it'll be the very last item you unconnect, whatever that is. Been there, done that on airplanes. ALWAYS the last fricking plug. It's written somewhere.
Looking back at this thread, I should have been on to this earlier instead of all that other stuff you had to do. When unplugging the alt small plug had no effect, I should have realized it was backfeeding at the fuse box. LIve and learn.
Last edited by HAILERS; 09-22-08 at 04:29 AM.
09-22-08, 09:44 AM
#46
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Just a thought. I'd deem suspect any item that was aftermarket, like audio, gauges and the like.
There are things that have power on them without the key being in the car. Like the headlights and side light, door lights. It's possible someone rigged their aftermarket *thing* where it's somehow tied into both the item with battery power and the Meter black/yellow. Hard to say.
By the way, I had a buyer for your car. He offered $8,000.00 for it, but I told him to get lost. You were having too much fun with the car.
There are things that have power on them without the key being in the car. Like the headlights and side light, door lights. It's possible someone rigged their aftermarket *thing* where it's somehow tied into both the item with battery power and the Meter black/yellow. Hard to say.
By the way, I had a buyer for your car. He offered $8,000.00 for it, but I told him to get lost. You were having too much fun with the car.
09-22-08, 04:27 PM
#47
Should have taken that 8K. I would have split it with ya lol.
Ok now with the "normal" questions so to speak.
Cruise Control System - Is the "brain" to that the gold box that mounts next to the ECU? I have unplugged that and no change. I can pull the CC switch and see what that does.
Meters and warning lights - I am assuming that those would be the idiot lights and gauge cluster. These are the only two items that continue to have power when the METER fuse is pulled. Maybe thats a good place to start.
Backup Lights - The switch for that is in the tailshaft of the transmission right?
Auto Adjusting Suspension - I dont have that. Were all TII's wired for that option???
Cooling Fan System - Is that the electric fan that 'used to' run when the air conditioning would turn on? It would blow through the condensor. If so, not hooked up and that wiring doesnt look like it was ever messed with. All stock tape and coverings still on the wires.
Heater and Air Conditioning - AC was removed, nothing from that system was cut or changed when it was removed. Heat half of that - I'll check it out. Assuming the HVAC control unit, or maybe blower motor or possibly the air mix motor??? Air mix motor works only with key, blower motor does not work (neither does blmcquig's - also another place to look at), and HVAC control unit also only works with key and seems to work properly.
Theft Deterrent System - Uhhh, no idea lol.
Warning and Auto Clock - If this 'Auto Clock' is the clock that is in the idiot light cluster area, then that works with the key. Warning - again no idea.
Door Lock Cylinders - Assuming this would be controlled by the power lock switches, which are currently not hooked up. However with aftermarket keyless entry systems I will find out where those wires would normally be hooked into and check that area.
So right now I will concentrate on the meters and warning lights, backup light system (will take pics of tailshaft wiring - I needed to lengthen wires in order to get them plugged in, could have messed up something), blower motor wiring, and door lock wiring.
Does my thinking make sense? I hope so lol.
Ok now with the "normal" questions so to speak.
Cruise Control System - Is the "brain" to that the gold box that mounts next to the ECU? I have unplugged that and no change. I can pull the CC switch and see what that does.
Meters and warning lights - I am assuming that those would be the idiot lights and gauge cluster. These are the only two items that continue to have power when the METER fuse is pulled. Maybe thats a good place to start.
Backup Lights - The switch for that is in the tailshaft of the transmission right?
Auto Adjusting Suspension - I dont have that. Were all TII's wired for that option???
Cooling Fan System - Is that the electric fan that 'used to' run when the air conditioning would turn on? It would blow through the condensor. If so, not hooked up and that wiring doesnt look like it was ever messed with. All stock tape and coverings still on the wires.
Heater and Air Conditioning - AC was removed, nothing from that system was cut or changed when it was removed. Heat half of that - I'll check it out. Assuming the HVAC control unit, or maybe blower motor or possibly the air mix motor??? Air mix motor works only with key, blower motor does not work (neither does blmcquig's - also another place to look at), and HVAC control unit also only works with key and seems to work properly.
Theft Deterrent System - Uhhh, no idea lol.
Warning and Auto Clock - If this 'Auto Clock' is the clock that is in the idiot light cluster area, then that works with the key. Warning - again no idea.
Door Lock Cylinders - Assuming this would be controlled by the power lock switches, which are currently not hooked up. However with aftermarket keyless entry systems I will find out where those wires would normally be hooked into and check that area.
So right now I will concentrate on the meters and warning lights, backup light system (will take pics of tailshaft wiring - I needed to lengthen wires in order to get them plugged in, could have messed up something), blower motor wiring, and door lock wiring.
Does my thinking make sense? I hope so lol.
09-22-08, 05:02 PM
#49
No, there isnt but in the 21 years that the car has been around I am sure that its possible that at one time there was one. I do know that at one time a megasquirt was wired in. No idea what all wires are needed for a megasquirt install. I noticed that the fuel pump wires were cut into but other than that no idea.
09-22-08, 06:45 PM
#50
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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Cruise Control is as shown in the attached jpg. Seems the control unit plug needs to be off, the switch plug off, and the clutch and brake pedal plugs off. Not the interlock switch on the clutch but the other plug.
AAS. Never seen one in my life. I've no idea where the accelerator sw would have been. The AAS control switch would be in the rear ...somewhere. You can tell because there is a (R) near the B/Y wire. Can't help much here on that.
Third jpg: Remove the plug from the CPU. See jpg as to why. Cargo lights and stuff.
Fourth jpg: Auto Clock. Just unplug it. It's that warning unit in the middle of the dash.
AAS. Never seen one in my life. I've no idea where the accelerator sw would have been. The AAS control switch would be in the rear ...somewhere. You can tell because there is a (R) near the B/Y wire. Can't help much here on that.
Third jpg: Remove the plug from the CPU. See jpg as to why. Cargo lights and stuff.
Fourth jpg: Auto Clock. Just unplug it. It's that warning unit in the middle of the dash.
Last edited by HAILERS; 09-22-08 at 07:04 PM.