JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Okay..
I guess the first question is.. What did I **** up or forget?

Car is an 86 sport 55k miles original everything...
I molested the never before touched car and removed everything...
I replaced all the manifolds with S4 tII parts and supporting accessories...
I used the original NA harness and removed all emissions and unneeded connectors, extended the tps connector and rewrapped the harness..
Are there any wires that needed to be eliminated? or are not compatible with the tII ECU?

The main issue Im having is..
The first time the vehicle cranked last night, it had fuel and spark it didnt want to start.
We left it alone until this morning, we put some fresh gas in it, put a jump box on the battery, I brought the PDA to check the rtek for codes, I pulled the new plugs found them covered in fuel, cleaned them off, and disconnected the cas and egi fuses.
Cleaned the housings out, replaced the plugs, and reconnected everthing.
Go to start it and nothing. Now I notice the tachs not bouncing, I know what that means, I check and no spark, WTF!!
I check all my fuses, they're good, the main fuse block is a little warm for my liking .. checked my connections theyre all good.

As I'm sitting back wondering w/ the key on.. My buddy as standing by the driver strut tower and to me that this thing was making noises...
I came over and found what might be the main relay?(I have a pic) buzzing rapidly. I touched it and it stopped instantly it was hot, 2 seconds later we see SMOKE coming from under the trailing coil, we turn off the key and removed the coil found everything looked normal.
We, turned the key back on and waited a few seconds and the back of the large connector started smoking, we disconnected the battery, and inspected.
I found this large 4 pin connector super hot the wires on the backside of the connector sort of melted but there was no damage in side the connector..
So whats going on?
Did I forget to disconnect something on the NA harness to use it with the turbo accessories? some thing back feeding the wrong way?
Did this relay just fail horribly? for no reason?

Any advice would greatly be appericiated..
Thanks guys,
James

satch

iTrader: (1)

The EGI INJ fuse should be 40 amps and the EGI COMP fuse ought to be 30 amps. Is this what you have? The Main relay should have two plugs where the largest is 4 wires and the smaller has 2 wires. Is this what you have? The smaller plug has a Black wire and a B/W wire while the Black is the ground. Is this ground wire connected to the grounding block properly, which is located just under and to the side of the trailing coil between the coil and the fender?

HAILERS2

Hmm. A chattering Main Relay. The main relay is powered from the two wire plug attached to it. One wire is a ground wire. That ground for that wire is from a block attached to the backside of the left front strut tower.....under the trail coil area if memory serves. Its an electrical plug that attaches to six metal prongs outfit bolted to the chassis. Make sure that plug is attached and or check the black wire in the main relays two wire plug with a meter to make sure it's grounded. Should read under a ohm.

Or if not the gnd for the main relay.......the power for that two wire plug comes from the ENGINE fuse in the interior. Engine fuse also powers the fuel pump and circuit opening relay along with the main relay..fyi thing

IF the two wire plug on the main relay is left on the relay and the four wire plug is pulled off.......does the relay still chatter?

One thing that is odd is that the EGI fuses did not blow when the main relays four wire plug was getting melted down. I don't understand that. Make sure both EGI fuse are still good.

The black/green and the white/blue wire in that four wire connector are the ones from the engine bay fuse boxes EGI fuses. There seems to be a short but it would not be in those two wires, it would be on the other two wires that the EGI fuses feed. One would be black/yellwo and the other black/white.

Black/yellow feeds the coils and fuel injectors power. The black/white feeds the ECU and the solenoids on the left side of a stk engine along with the two solenoids on the ACV.

Replace or check the ENGINE fuse in the interior and the two EGI fuses in the engine and make sure the main fuse is still good.

Leave the four wire plug off the main relay. Turn the key ON and see if the main relay clicks or pulls in when the key is put to ON. Should. Let it sit for a moment to make sure it does not chattere anymore. Then jumper a homemade jumper wire b/t the white/blue and the black/white wires in that connector. Wait for several minutes and feel the wires to see if they get hot when you do this (like they did previously). IF not then the short is not in the black/white wire that feeds the ECU and solenoids on the vacuum rack.

If the wires start melting then the problem is in the black/white wires circuitry.

If the wires do not melt......then pull that jumper and jumper the black/green to the black/yellow and see if the wires start melting or not or start getting hot. IF they start getting hot the short is in the black/yellow that feeds the coils and injector plugs.

The black/white wire gives people problems usually when it gets shorted to gnd at one of the solenoids that feed the ACV. Usually and should blow the EGI COMP fuse when doing so. Yours didn't. I know not why. Or that black/white wires circuit also fed the solenoind on the vacuum rack> if you removed the solneoids, then make sure that none of the black/white wires that attach to those solenoids is touching ground and shorting things out.

No. Ive' done this swap to turbo and used the stk non turbo harness and nothing like this happened to me. Memory says if the car has a pwr steering on it, that there is one wire that needs pulling from the ECU's plug.........but i guarantee that is not your problem at all.

Lots of times people remove the solenoids and cut the plugs off them and that is when the black/white gets shorted to gnd and usually blows a fuse.

I'm sure SATCH has some ideas on this also.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

That is correct I have a good 40 and 30 amp fuse in the EGI ports.
Yes, my relay has both a 4 wire and a 2 wire connector on it, those colors are correct..
I am confident in the ground at that loaction..

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I am sure it is grounded properly.

Or if not the gnd for the main relay.......the power for that two wire plug comes from the ENGINE fuse in the interior. Engine fuse also powers the fuel pump and circuit opening relay along with the main relay..fyi thing

I have fuel pressure after my rails

IF the two wire plug on the main relay is left on the relay and the four wire plug is pulled off.......does the relay still chatter?

the relay stop chattering as soon as I touched it. Then the connector started smoking. I did not see any smoke while it was chattering..

One thing that is odd is that the EGI fuses did not blow when the main relays four wire plug was getting melted down. I don't understand that. Make sure both EGI fuse are still good.

it is odd I double checked, they are good.


I will go thru my wiring I probly screwed up some where on the harness.. thank both of u guys soo much ill report back tomorrow with my findings

HAILERS2

Also..........make sure the large black/yellow cable that is attached to the battery neg post is bolted at it's other end to either the starters long outboard bolt or at least to one of the other engine/transmisision attach bolts. Also that same cable has a wire spliced to it that terminates at the lower part of the left strut tower. It's a smaller gauge wire but makes the chassis to battery ground connection.

It's difficult to say which wire is shorting out....the black/yellow or the black/white. You can't just take a meter and put it on ohms and touch one wire or the other and tell which is shorted to gnd. It's normal for some of the items which are attached to those two wires, to have part of that items circuit normally going to gnd. Sort of like if one item has a simple light bulb it, the meter will show a *short* to gnd when there is no such thing goin on. I'd concetrate on the black/white wire.

Key to ON you should hear the main relay pull in if the two wire plug is on it. IF not then the engine fuse is blown or??.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

this is probably it....

HAILERS2

2ND JPG attached shows the b/w coming off the main relay and shows the path to the air bypass relay...........................and on the first jpg attached shows it leaving the feed to the air bypass relay and feeding all those solenoids at the top of the page.

ON the second jpg I cut off the part where it feeds the air bypass relay. Too lazy to redo it. By the way, the air bypass relay on a series four non turbo is located near the right front headlight and frankly I've only looked at that relay once a few years ago and never since. you'll find few posts mentioning it, but its up front and has a b/w wire feeding it. The b/w also feeds the air bypass solenoid which is shown in the second jpg and that solenoid on a seires four non turbo was on the left rear side of the engine. Kinda round in shape if memory serves. Looks just like the air bypass solenoid located on the top right of the turbo engines.

Also the green six socket check connector has a b/w wire and the three wire TPS check connector has a b/w wire. Fed just like the other solenoids......offf that b/w leaving the Main Relay.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

is there a way to delete this wire with out tearing up this harness? what does it control other then emission solenoids?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The ECU thus the name of "EGI Computer" fuse. Also powers the BAC.

HAILERS2

Well I was going to say depin the B/W from the plug called FEM-02...........but you can see from the jpgs I attached that the B/W leaves the main relay inside the Front harness and then gets plugged into the EM harness at the FEM-02 orange plug and then goes to several splices inside the EM harness and on one of those splices goest to feed pin 3J on the ECU...............so, nope, can't just depin that wire from the main relay or anyother place that I can see without losing power to the ECU.

If you did cut the plugs off the harness for the Blue, grey, orange etc plugs, go revisit those cut wires and make sure they are not touching anything else.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

You guys are the best u were right a b/w wire was shorting to another when im
Done wrapping this up I hope this thing starts and I didn't fry anything

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

just the main relay....

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

the relays good!!! it lives I got it started!!