Terrh

iTrader: (7)

got my engine in (1988 TII) ... it's not working right! no emmissions or anything are on it. 720cc secondary injectors with wired in resistors. s-afc but stock ECU.

Got it running, it ran fine for a bit. haven't driven it under load yet at all so I can't comment on that. revved it once and blew an intercooler hose off, stalled. put it back on, put the hose clamp on it this time and started it back up, and it ran on one rotor only!

pulled the plugs, went out and bought a compression tester, checked the compression (fearing that somehow I'd managed to blow it in the driveway).. it was even but the numbers aren't that fantastic.. 100psi front 104 rear, cold engine.... they ARE even though, 3 chuffs from each rotor.

Its also a BITCH to start and floods/fouls the plugs really really easily.

it has spark to all 4 plugs. Timing hasn't been properly set yet (just lined up the cas and put it in the car.. not boosting till it's set proplerly and retarded a few degrees from stock) but it ran fine at first so I dont' see how this could be the issue.

ALSO, now my gauge cluster in the dash isnt working, none of it at all! (well the speedo probably still works but none of the electronics are).

my voltmeter seems to read really high with the car off (like 15+V at the battery).. is this normal?

iceblue

Sounds like a bad cluster. Someone with exsperiance in this prob should shed some lights. Just my hunch

Puck

iTrader: (1)

Strange that it is only firing on one rotor. With the leadings being a waste spark, if one rotor is firing, the other should fire, being the same coil. If your leading coil were toast, then both rotors would run the same, running off the trailing. If the leading and one trailing coil were bad, that would be quite a coincidence.

I am assuming all spark plug wires are on the correct spark plug (I know, I know, stupid question to ask!)

How do you know it is running on one rotor?

Greg

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

I don't "know" that it is, but it sure sounds like it is! and acts, revs slowly, makes 1-rotor noises, etc.

Puck

iTrader: (1)

If you can manage to get it running, and stay running, warm it up and put a timing light on it, and see how close you are. Also, with the SAFC, there isn't a chance that it is getting too much fuel, is there?

Greg

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

the gauge cluster is not working as well, and also, the idiot lights don't turn on when I turn the key ON anymore... wtf!.

swapped ECU's, still not working, gauge cluster still not working, lights still not working.

anyone? alll I want to do is drive the damn car!

Icemark

ECU won't have anything to do with the gauges or headlight/parking lights working.

The fuses will however. Have you checked them???

As far as the idiot lights (I am assuming this is a S4, as you say the motor is from an 88), the CPU should turn on the idiot lights if the key is on, but the engine is not running. If it is not, either your alternator is wired wrong, or the CPU is bad, or the idiot light panel is bad.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

got the engine working. disconnected the TPS and magically it worked fine! reconnected it... still works fine! not sure wtf is wrong with it.

I'm going to check out my fuel pump as well, as I've never really trusted it... might do that today or tomorrow, CERTAINLY before it sees boost. wish I had a fuel pressure gauge.

idiot lights/gauge cluster still are not working. I'm searching for something that shows what fuse does what right now! cos the car doesn't, owners manual doesnt, my '88 FSM doesnt, and my haynes manual doesn't either.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

well the engine has fucked up again, but now it's working and has been for quite some time.

I replaced the METER fuse and they worked for a bit but it blew again.

the cluster lights must be on the same fuse, cos they work when the gauges do and don't when they don't!

I've got a spare gauge cluster, guess I'll swap it as that'll eliminate it as a suspect.