My88Se

iTrader: (10)

so, after i rebuild my engine i get it running and what not fine. I am away for college but every weekend that i come home it would start right up. Now that i am home for a while i can finally take it out for a spin, as every other time i had just let it idle. so after i take it out one day, i go to start then next day. no go. I struggled to figure it out, it kept flooding, so ok. unflooded it and got it running. it ran like ****, barely held idle and actually ran like it did when i blew the rear rotor.

I checked compression, 6 strong pulses. i know i have gas, cause it would flood almost every time i tried to start it. so i check the spark and bingo i am not getting anything from the leading coil. nothing. trailing is fine though.

So i am wondering if it could be just a shot leading coil or is it something else? I know next to nothing about electrical stuff. thanks
Greg

Icemark

Most rebuilds (unless they have new housings and lapped plates) will flood like crazy for at least 500 miles.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

i realize that, what i did was take an inductive timing light and test to see if i am getting any spark. Nothing whatsoever from the leading coil.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

ok, now im really stumped. I just checked the resistance of the leading and trailing coils as well as the CAS, all of which are in spec according to the hayes manual. So can anyone tell me what the hell is goin on and why the leading coil isn't firing?

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

^

HAILERS

Yes. Try this. Idle the car if it will, with all the plugs on the car. While idling, pull JUST ONE of the Lead plugs off. Did you see spark b/t the plug lead and the plug as you pulled it off? Just bare with me and for now and just forget that you used a timing light already. Just do as described above and let us know what happened.

SureShot

Just for grins- rig a ground wire from battery (-) to the leading coil mount.
Then see if it fires up.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

i wish i could do that but i can't. I have been trying to get it started for hours but im not getting anything. usually i would get a fluctuation of some kind but its not doing anything, the engine just turns with no change in the sound at all. i would love to try that, but at this point i really cannot. is there anything else you can have me do? In the meantime i will still be trying to start it. I really apprerciate the help.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

ok i'll go try that sureshot, thanks.

HAILERS

Most people on this forum consider the following somewhat retarded....but it ain't. Near the left hand rear strut tower is the fuel pump plug. It is attached to the strut tower UNDER THE RUG. Go and disconnect that plug. It has four wires. You can't mistake it for anything else. Pull it apart.

With it pulled apart, and ALL fuses and other plugs connected, try to start the car. If you don't get any reaction after thirty seconds of cranking like this....drop this method. If it fires for just a few moments, then reconnect the fuel pump plug and try again. The car sounds flooded severly and you said you saw spark on the trail plugs, so it should work. Using this method you will have no fuel but still have spark to aid the starting of the car.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

i actually have a fuel cut switch under the dash, its a little hacked but i know it works. I'll try that though but im pretty sure its almost the same thing.

and when i am cranking it, i usually have the fuel off.

HAILERS

Go to the small, white plug at the Lead Coil assy. It has two wires. One is black/yellow. With the key to ON, see if you have 12v on that wire. Forget about the other.

The black/yellow is the voltage supply for the coils. Since the trails were firing you'd think the lead would also have the 12v on the black/yellow....but just in case, check it out.

Yes, fuel cut sw should have done the same thing as pulling the fuel pump plug. Disregard.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

ok, i got 11.69V on the wire.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

also, i took the plugs out of the engine, and hooked them ut to their respective plug wires, then cranked the engine with the lights in the garage off. I got sparks from the trailing, but not the leading. so this has me stumped, its got power and the resistance is within spec so why isn't it working?

HAILERS

Ring the wires FROM the ECU thru the CAS. You have a schematic? I'm out of pocket right now but might send a schematic with the four wire/pin numbers.

And make sure the lead coil assy is bolted to the chassis (probably is).

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

i'll try not to sound mean but to be honest i have no idea what you mean by that. i do not have a schematic, so that would help. my email is rx7_re@yahoo.com if u wanna send me one. Thanks

HAILERS

Here: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=580160

HAILERS

You pull the large plug off the ECU. You put a meter on ohms. One lead on the N and the other on the P. Read the resistance. Then do the same to pins T and Q. The meter leads would have been on the plug NOT the ECU pins/sockets

The plugs are lettered looking at the WIRE side of the plug. They start on the far right with A. Under A, is B and so on across the plug til you reach the end. So start counting from the right, going to the left til you find the pins that you are looking for i.e. N and P and T and Q.

I forget what the resistance is. I think around 120 ohms. Anyway one set should read like the other within reason. Your measuring the coils in the CAS plus the wiring inbetween. If you read open on a set....then there is a wire broken b/t the ECU and the CAS.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

I checked that and between wires N and P i got 167.4 ohms, and about the same resistance between T and Q.

HAILERS

Well...thats sounds good. I just looked at the manual (Fuel Section, Electronic Spark Advance Control System) and it says 110 to 210. So you at least know the cas and wiring is good. If I get an idea I'll let you know. Here's a thread about the ignition http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

I really hate just changing parts out, but I've bought a lead coil assy in the past from the wreck yard for twenty five bucks. Bought it for a little 82RX project. I've never had a cas/coil problem in the past.

There have been at least two times in the past where I saw something irregular with the coil assy's. Both times were when the battery was flat and I jumped the car off with another car. I'd go for a drive immediatley after that and noticed the tach was not working, a clear sign the trail coils were not working. But the car was running fine like just any RX will on just lead coils. Stopping the car and restarting the car made the trails come back to lfe....so there was no long time *problem*. Just a glitch that I've seen due to????? Got me. Lost interest when it started working right. Glitch/

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

you know that is rather interesting, because when i fist bought the car the previous owner put in a tachometer. The reason he put one in was because he said that the stock tachometer was n't working for a while. Now ever since I have had the car the stock tachometer has been working.

Also i dont know if this makes any sense but the car also has an aftermarket alarm on it. I usually have it off, and when it is off, there is a little red light mounted in the dash to signify that the system is off( flashing light means it is on). Well that light went out around the time this started happening, so i go under the dash and play with the switch to turn the alarm on and off. I flip the switch into the opposite position, what should be the "ON" position and the red light comes on and is solid. i have it that way now and the alarm is off, but the switch is turned to ON, which I thought was a little odd, as that has never happened before.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

anyone gots any insight into this?

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

^

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

does anyone know the proper resistance on the leading and trailing coils? I have sen anything above .2 ohms being bad yet in the Hayes manual it says anything between .2 and 1 being ok, so which is it?

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

^