Electrical
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Duluth, MN
Electrical
I tried searching for this old topic i read a few weeks ago but no luck. all of my accessory lights on my dashboard turn on when i turn the egnition on. I read somewhere, i believe something about a short and such...alternater i think? not sure exactly...But It was fine not long before it. The battery was dead, so i charged it...i put it on that fast charge..30/50amp ...and then later i used a powerpressure sprayer to clean the car up a bit...yes i did unhook the battery and stuff before i did that. So i went to see if she would crank over and all i got was a click and all my lights were on.
I dont know much about the electrical stuff yet...I am assuming it has to do something with battery/alt/ or fuses? am i right? someone give me feedback plz
I dont know much about the electrical stuff yet...I am assuming it has to do something with battery/alt/ or fuses? am i right? someone give me feedback plz
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 24
From: Rohnert Park CA
Not following you... can you be more specific?
The idiot/warning lights in the clock/idiot light info center should be coming on if the key is in the on position but the engine or alt is not running.
The idiot/warning lights in the clock/idiot light info center should be coming on if the key is in the on position but the engine or alt is not running.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Duluth, MN
Ya...but they stay on? They never stayed on before. I am positive i read somewhere that if they stay on like that there isnt enough power or something? Like when i turn it to on..they will stay on..every single one of them...untill i turn the egnition off. I know they didnt stay on before...and now it only clicks when i try to start it.
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
You've got two different things happening here.
The warning lights come on and STAY on as long as the key is in the 'ON' position. If you next start the car and she runs and the charging sys is behaving normally, THEN those lights go out.
As for getting only a click, check all of your 'primary' electrical connections.
- positive and negative terminals at the battery. Pull them right off, wipe them off and snuggly reconnect them.
- all 3 terminals on the starter. Same as above; pull (one at time so you don't mix up which goes where when you put them back together,) clean and re-attach.
- at the alternator.
Check your MAIN fuse, too, in the master fuse panel by the driver's side strut tower.
And don't forget to leave the negative terminal on the battery disconnected before you do this.
The warning lights come on and STAY on as long as the key is in the 'ON' position. If you next start the car and she runs and the charging sys is behaving normally, THEN those lights go out.
As for getting only a click, check all of your 'primary' electrical connections.
- positive and negative terminals at the battery. Pull them right off, wipe them off and snuggly reconnect them.
- all 3 terminals on the starter. Same as above; pull (one at time so you don't mix up which goes where when you put them back together,) clean and re-attach.
- at the alternator.
Check your MAIN fuse, too, in the master fuse panel by the driver's side strut tower.
And don't forget to leave the negative terminal on the battery disconnected before you do this.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Duluth, MN
So all the lights will stay on untill you try to start her? I swore they turned off after a few seconds...maybe I just never noticed it lol. But I will check all my fuses and connections. I have to drive to the shop to check her out...so if everything looks fine, could it be something else ? I dont want to run back and forth :P
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Mine stay on. It's so you can tell each time you go to start the car, at a glance, if any of those bulbs are dead and need to be replaced.
The clicking is almost always just a matter of the starter not getting enough juice. And since your battery is probably fine, it's time to look at connections. If a connection is loose or otherwise not making more than slight contact, the starter won't get enough juice - it's asking for a lot of zap to come through a very 'narrow passage.' So it doesn't get nearly enough zap and it only clicks...
The clicking is almost always just a matter of the starter not getting enough juice. And since your battery is probably fine, it's time to look at connections. If a connection is loose or otherwise not making more than slight contact, the starter won't get enough juice - it's asking for a lot of zap to come through a very 'narrow passage.' So it doesn't get nearly enough zap and it only clicks...
Trending Topics
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 24
From: Rohnert Park CA
They all should stay on until the car is started (except the brake if that is released).
Once the car is started then they will shut off.
Them all being on is the diagnostic for the warning and the alt function.
Once the car is started then they will shut off.
Them all being on is the diagnostic for the warning and the alt function.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Duluth, MN
After a bit of messing around with some etc...i came to the conclusion that the engine is seized up =/ not sure how exactly it got seized up since i did get it running last week...but ya, I needed a new engine anyways so its not a big deal ;P well thx for the help
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Duluth, MN
Because everything was hooked up fine and battery was still good and it wouldnt crank over or anything...just click like it wanted to but wouldnt...and then i was trying to turn the p/s belt and such and i couldnt do anything at all...
But that just means i get to tear this engine apart and learn more about how tthey work...actually get to see an inside of one for my self. And then my TII conversion will be comming much sooner then expected now too ;P so it works out both ways heh
But that just means i get to tear this engine apart and learn more about how tthey work...actually get to see an inside of one for my self. And then my TII conversion will be comming much sooner then expected now too ;P so it works out both ways heh
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Check out this comment from hypntyz7:
Originally posted by hypntyz7
Yeah dude, that engine is toast inside. There has been internal damage that is irreversible except by rebuild.
What generally happens here, despite the name, is that when the stock apex seals wear down enough, and you shut the engine down one day, one will actualy roll sideways partially out of the rotors tip, and wedge itself between it and the housing. When you try and move it, either way, you're generally driving a stuck seal farther into something it shouldnt be against, one way or another (rotor or rotorhousing). Obviously you're only doing more damage the more you try and move it. Not only do you have to rebuild, but youll also need a replacement rotor and rotorhousing in most cases.
Im NOT saying carbonlock doesnt exist...just that true carbon lock is much more rare than the condition described above, but both exhibit the same symptoms, and are both referred to as carbon lock.
Yeah dude, that engine is toast inside. There has been internal damage that is irreversible except by rebuild.
What generally happens here, despite the name, is that when the stock apex seals wear down enough, and you shut the engine down one day, one will actualy roll sideways partially out of the rotors tip, and wedge itself between it and the housing. When you try and move it, either way, you're generally driving a stuck seal farther into something it shouldnt be against, one way or another (rotor or rotorhousing). Obviously you're only doing more damage the more you try and move it. Not only do you have to rebuild, but youll also need a replacement rotor and rotorhousing in most cases.
Im NOT saying carbonlock doesnt exist...just that true carbon lock is much more rare than the condition described above, but both exhibit the same symptoms, and are both referred to as carbon lock.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Duluth, MN
Well hopefully by the end of the week i will have everything ripped out and such...I just dont know how i am going to remember how to put eveyrthing back together heh... going to be tought but i am excited! 
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post