dorkman52000

Hi all, I searched but could not find any threads. Summit has an electric water pump for all Mazda rotary engines. You can remotely mount this anywhere you want (what I gather from the catalog anyway) because there is a block-off plate that it comes with to replace the water pump on the front of the engine. OR you could mount it in the same place as the stock w/pump and I guess there is a pulley on the block-off plate so you don't have to change your belt. I assume that this will help free up a little HP and a huge load off the eccentric shaft, but will require more electricity because it will be running all the time. Another thing I can see wrong is that the flow of the pump will not increase with RPM (unless there's some kind of a sensor...I don't know).

I was wondering a couple of things. FIRST, has anyone done this to their 2nd gen? How good is it (terms of cooling "before" and "after" installation).

SECOND, since it says it will work for ALL Mazda rotary engines, does that mean I could install a 3rd gen w/pump or a Renesis w/pump on my engine and expect to get better flow; especially from the 3rd gen engine since it had two turbochargers on it and I assume cooling requirements would be greater than the 2nd gen N/A cars. If I could get a 3rd gen w/pump to fit and expect better cooling from just that modification, I would do it: I'm in California and not a big fan of having a hotter running engine in the summertime.

Any good input on this topic is greatly appreciated. I just want to know if either of these options are good ideas or just totally unfathomable (if that's even a word). Thanks in advance for your input.

Syonyk

What kind of power are you planning on putting out? The FC water pump is *more* than sufficient for almost all cooling needs - even people putting out 400+ WHP are for the most part using the stock water pump, just using upgraded radiators & such.

As for the amount of power freed up, I don't think you'll gain much - water pumps aren't very hard to turn at all, and you'll just be trading load over to the alternator, which on the FCs is lacking to begin with.

One advantage of the electric water pump will be that you won't get cavitation at high RPMs with the stock pulleys, but an underdrive pulley will fix that just fine.

*shrug* I just don't see why you'd want to replace the water pump. Assuming the car is the one in your sig, there's no way you're outrunning the stock water pump - if you're running hot, try replacing the thermostat.

-=Russ=-

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

I've only seen electric pumps on drag cars. Short duration, lots of heat, and they run the pump after the engine is shut down too, I think thats the biggest advantage. I don't know if I'd trust an electric pump around town. It would flow probably flow enough to work, I just fear change

dorkman52000

I know that my car is running okay temps right now...I do want to modify the e-fan coverage area a little bit, but according to the gauge I just installed this past weekend, the car's temp is around 185-195 around town (and I have a 180 degree thermostat installed) and just over 180 going down the highway. I had an underdrive pulley on my last RX, but never had a gauge installed OR an e-fan.

I also know that the power required to run it would be greater, and I still need to do a 3rd gen alternator swap. Thank you very much for the input. If I ever did do it, it would be after the rebuild I need on this engine. It's old and I know it's going to die eventually anyway. I figured I'd do some research before-hand and find out if it would be a good idea to put into my next rotor motor, which I am planning on porting and using s5 parts, etc.

The guy I bought the car from had the w/pump replaced, but I think it's aftermarket, since it is rust-colored and does not have a Mazda number on it. I want to change it out but thought I'd see what you guys posted about the Summit one first. Another downside of that pump is it's price...$250 for the pump, another $90 if you want to mount it in the OEM location.

Thanks for the replies

cwsttu

you have to think about how heat sensetive our motors are... one screw up and it overheats you can warp alot of things on the motor..... i wouldnt trust an electric water pump on a daily driver.... just my .02 cents

dorkman52000

That's the foremost thought in my mind about these engines...you may remember a couple months ago when I "panic-posted" about how I thought I did seriously wrong when that confounded rear lower coolant hose under the intake manifold blew and my temps went up as I was going downhill. The engine seems okay even after its near-death experience, but I know that HAD to have hurt the life of the engine.

Ever since then (even before then, actually) I have just been taking precautions to make sure the engine doesn't overheat again. That's the "why" for posting this thread.

Just a question, why wouldn't you trust an e-pump? As long as you hook it up right, it should do just fine. You can even wire in a light into the interior of your car to make sure you know its on all the time.

cwsttu

well since you ask me ill put it in an example many people can relate too..... take a s4 car and a s5 car.... there are a good majority of people here on the board that prefer the s4 over the s5 model due to the OMP (oil metering pump).... the reason being is because the s4 omp is mechanical... it is reletively trouble free.... when the electric one goes out its also more expensive to replace.... thats just a mild example of why i will prefer mechanical parts over electrical parts sometimes... especially when thier function is important to the well being of the motor....


does that make sense

christopher

dorkman52000

^^^absolutely.

Being as how my first question was answered (thanks all) does anyone know if it's possible to use a 3rd gen w/pump and see cooling gains? Still curious to know, thanks guys

88 GTU

it's not worth the money for street use just stick with your factory one

MARTIN

I personally would like to use an elec over a mech. Seems alot better. you can trouble shoot with the car off, and even put a relay and have it running for a bit after the car is off.. although a replacement mech, pump is 10 times cheaper than a elec. one. And if you are using the stock alt. then thats even another downside..

Havoc

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=8

check these water pumps out, this is a major brand in Australia and have a very good track record if you want a electrical water pump.

They do a lot of thermal fans and stuff as well if your interested

RETed

NO, on the FD water pump cause the belt types are totally different.
Stock FC's run V-belts, while FD's run serpentine belts.

I think you're attacking the problem the wrong way.
Upgrade the radiator, and this would handle almost anything you throw at it, especially in an NA.


-Ted