I know this is not what you want to hear, but electrical problems are not easy to find/spot. With that said, what was the last electrical change, installation, modification done to the car, (new radio, new starter, electric fan, etc)? Any mechanical work before the problem started?

Here's what you can do, it’s not going to be easy but it will get you started.

1-Disconnect the ground cable from the battery,

(Use a 12V tester light)

2-Connect the crocodile part to the ground on the battery

3-Touch the ground cable with the other (sharp) side of the tester light

If there's something/circuit open the light on the tester light SHOULD be ON. If this is correct start pulling fuses (one by one). When you pull certain fuse the tester light will TURN OFF. Once this happen you'll know that your problem resides on that fuse (actually the whole area/cable that the fuse covers).

"Lets say that when you took off the wipers fuse, the tester light went off. That means that your problems relies on the wipers electrical system."

I'm not an electro technician, but I used to be a car audio/security installer back in college.


Hope this help,

 

That method only works for current draw tests, and should be done with a digital multi-meter instead of a testlight. A testlight won't really light unless the draw is above 150 MA, which is three times the normal idle draw on a FC and enough to draw the battery down in a day.

 

I have this same problem with my winter car, 92 Probe. My battery will be dead in four days if I don't start it.

 

As I said I'm not a elctromechanic, however I did found my 12V problem by using the method I explained above. The problem I had was that the battery will drain COMPLETLY in 3 days if the car wasn't started at all, if the car was started daily it will last anywhere from 2 to 3 weeks. I'm not saying your are wrong, but that was my experience.

KNO

 

I agree with the notion the leak is probably where you worked on it AFTER you noticed the problem. I installed an alarm and later discovered the auto lock feature was keeping the silinoides (excuse the spelling, its late) constantly engaged. Disconnected the auto-lock feature, no problem afterward.

If you can't find it by retracing, then to save your sanity, sell the car and buy another one. This problem is WAY more difficult than finding any needle in a haystack.

 

check the wires that come to and from the fuse box under the hood on the left shock tower,they attach mid-way of the box underneath with 6mm screws.mine were loose and i cleaned and tighgtened them and it fixed it.these are 10 ga wires,i think one goes directly to the alt output and the other goes to the battery,thus if circuit fails -no charging to battery.

 

You will need an inexpensive multimeter that that can measure amps (current.) You can get one at an electronics supply store that isn't Radio Shack, and even theirs will work. I just got a
nice Extech for $30 on sale. If you are unfamiliar with measuring current, ask the salesman to show you how.

What you want to do is pull a fuse and touch the two probes from the meter to the two empty sockets from the two prong
fuse. This puts your multimeter in place of the fuse in the circuit.
If there is any current flowing through the circuit, like a light, the meter will show you how much current is being drawn. Do this for all fuses.
This will tell you what circuit is sucking your battery dry.

You will find a circuit diagram for your car very helpfull. It will
show you how things are connected, where the connections are,
and much other useful stuff.