Electric power loss below 1000rpm
#1
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Electric power loss below 1000rpm
when I am driving a nite time all power and lights are fine but as soon as I drop below 1000 rpm and hit the brake pedal all the lights get real dim and the stereo makes a static noise, My car started doing this yesterday, my optima battery is not even a year old alternator is good, I am making the right voltage, I am guessing this is a grounding issue somewhere else, I also have a ground kit.
Could someone tell me or show picture locations of all the vehicles major ground locations or gives more ideas why this is happening, I know FC's have poor grounding issues and I dont want this to effect my ignition, I did a search as well didnt come up with anything
Could someone tell me or show picture locations of all the vehicles major ground locations or gives more ideas why this is happening, I know FC's have poor grounding issues and I dont want this to effect my ignition, I did a search as well didnt come up with anything
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
sounds like the alt is starting to fail.
what is the voltage when this is happening. It needs to be at least 13.5 volts and preferably 14.4 volts.
Anything under 12.6 volts and there is insufficent power from the alt to run the car, and it is using battery power to keep every thing working.
So what makes you say:
what is the voltage??? why do you think the alt is good... sure sounds like it is starting to fail.
what is the voltage when this is happening. It needs to be at least 13.5 volts and preferably 14.4 volts.
Anything under 12.6 volts and there is insufficent power from the alt to run the car, and it is using battery power to keep every thing working.
So what makes you say:
alternator is good, I am making the right voltage,
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I replaced the alternator in 03 and have only driven a couple thousand miles since, I used my multimeter and my turbo timer read 14 volts while above 1,000rpm when it falls below 1,000rpm it goes to between 11.56-12.47 volts,When I push the brake at above 1k its fine but at or below or idle pushing the brakes really robs electrical power causing dimiing of all lights and engine,and if I pump the brakes really fast it almost dies out completly
#6
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by fc3stech
I replaced the alternator in 03 and have only driven a couple thousand miles since, I used my multimeter and my turbo timer read 14 volts while above 1,000rpm when it falls below 1,000rpm it goes to between 11.56-12.47 volts,When I push the brake at above 1k its fine but at or below or idle pushing the brakes really robs electrical power causing dimiing of all lights and engine,and if I pump the brakes really fast it almost dies out completly
Sounds like you got a bad alt, if it is somewhat new
#7
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What is the voltage across your battery with the car OFF???????????
wHAT type of optima... yellow or red?????
If it's below about 11.8 or so.... you got a dead cell in the optima
Also... clean the contacts of the battery, if they are corroded or munged up, its likely that you're not making enough of a charge...
Do you have underdrive pulleys on the car????
Do you have an E-Fan??????????????????????????
The alternator may be bad as Icemark states... BUT... if its pushin 14+ volts when the brakes and other accessories are NOT on and the car is at idle... then you have a bad circuit somewhere and voltage is being grounded to the chasis..
wHAT type of optima... yellow or red?????
If it's below about 11.8 or so.... you got a dead cell in the optima
Also... clean the contacts of the battery, if they are corroded or munged up, its likely that you're not making enough of a charge...
Do you have underdrive pulleys on the car????
Do you have an E-Fan??????????????????????????
The alternator may be bad as Icemark states... BUT... if its pushin 14+ volts when the brakes and other accessories are NOT on and the car is at idle... then you have a bad circuit somewhere and voltage is being grounded to the chasis..
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#8
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OK this morning I rechecked everything with a quality meter, I put the multimeter on my winshield to watch the voltage, with the car off the battery which is perfectly clean (optima yellow top) alone read 13.08, with car on and all lights off read at least 1386-14.0 with all the lights on at idle it read 12.46-12.80, so I guess this alternator sucks too, I have pretty much all stock lights basic stereo and h4 headlamps, well I guess I fill take this altternator in to get checked, well another question I have a s4TII and have an S5TII alt laying around are they interchangable, If so i will have them both checked
#9
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Originally Posted by fc3stech
OK this morning I rechecked everything with a quality meter, I put the multimeter on my winshield to watch the voltage, with the car off the battery which is perfectly clean (optima yellow top) alone read 13.08, with car on and all lights off read at least 1386-14.0 with all the lights on at idle it read 12.46-12.80, so I guess this alternator sucks too, I have pretty much all stock lights basic stereo and h4 headlamps, well I guess I fill take this altternator in to get checked, well another question I have a s4TII and have an S5TII alt laying around are they interchangable, If so i will have them both checked
So... if you are going to use that s5 alt..... the ring terminal is normal
the L terminal goes to the White(black stripe) wire on the s4 harness and the s terminal goes to the battery... the black(white stripe) wire on the s4 harnes just gets taped off
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 11-03-05 at 01:44 PM.
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
voltage is being grounded to the chasis..
Seroiusly... wires melt, fuses blow, smoke issues forth, genies escape if wires a shorted to ground.
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