I have an electric fan but don’t have a shroud for it (Koyo Allum. Rad.). I was wondering if anyone has researched and found a compatible OEM shroud from another car (usdm or jdm) that follows the same dimension layout. I want to hold off from building a DIY shroud found on this forum for now.

 

Most people will buy a used electric fan that includes a shroud rather than buy a fan then look for a shroud.

Ford Taurus 2 sp
Mercury Villager 2 sp
Pontiac Fiero
Ford Escort

Most of these used fans can be purchased at a salvage yard for $20 or so. They are very competent and reliable.

Aftermarket fans with shroud are also used but very expensive.

Search and you will find lots of resources on this forum

 

Ideally you would get a fan that already has a shroud. There are some commonly available e-fans that have shrouds which fit. The Black Magic is the most popular of the aftermarket. On the OEM side the Fiero/Pontiac 6000/GM fan, the Taurus fan, and then I think a recently discovered fan that fits comes off of the Mercury Villager or something.

The 1st gen RX-7 has a square shroud which covers most of the 2nd gen rad and will fit most small aftermarket e-fans.

It would help if you posted pictures of your fan.

 

Aaron, here it is

 

Nice radiator, it deserves a better fan. If you need that radiator, you need a better fan.

Here is a link to the state of the art OEM efan on this site. You really cannot beat it for $20. Run it on the low speed and it will work fine.


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...rcury+villager

Pic:

 

google sneedspeed

they have a nice aluminum shroud for the koyo . I have one and looks / fits good

 

Make one:









Cost:

$30 + someone helping me with their tool.

 

those flat alum ones are no good with a FMIC and AC, I can tell you this first hand.

They look pretty.

Jack- I ended up with a taurus fan and instead of cutting around the hoses heated the shroud up and took a piece of pipe to bend it, then cooled it down- pressed to shape

 

What's with all the small fans?

OP, your fan is way too small. Upgrade to one of the fans we have listed. Most on the list also have a shroud that fits the FC rad.

 

if you notice alot of those flat shrouds they are now punching louveres in them, I guess the theory is they are so close to the radiator that the air has to try to escape only out the fan hole.
I was seeing temps I was not always comfortable with, and this was with a supposed 3800cfm fan.

 

Thanks man, if it wasnt for your enthusiasm I wouldn't have otherwise bought it. I just barelly came from pick and pull and found one of the Villagers.

 

I hope you got the male ends for both the wiring plugs-that really makes it straitforward to remove the fan when you want to work on the car. Unplug a couple of plugs and take the fan out.

 

Nice. The heat gun is your friend. Did you set up both speeds?

 

A good rule of thumb is that the AREA of free space around the circumference of the fan opening should be at least equal to half of the area that is covered by the fan shroud. This setback will allow equal flow across the radiator face, it will also allow the shroud to flow enough air under ram-air flow on the highway.

If you don't have enough setback, i.e. free area, the fan/shroud will not act like a system. It will act like a restriction.

I had an excel calculator for this.

Ah, here it is. Enjoy!

 

single speed only, sometimes I wonder about the low speed, might look into it.
It was more to simplify, I know it was the easy way out I just feel like when its hot and your boosting that low speed wont do at all

 

Probably the right way to go.

Did you ever get your A/C pressures balanced and working?

 

nope, developed a leak somewhere when we went to figure it out, could not find it with the dye so we put more charge in with extra dye, now hopefully we can find the leak.
First time we charged no leaks so my money is on the line thats right above the turbo, maybe it cooked the seal

 

If you don't fin it with the dye, try pressuring the system with nitrogen. In home HVAC that is the standard. At 350 psi, the leak is easy to find using any method. I like to use soapy water in a squirt bottle. Bubbles like crazy!

 

will do, changing some things around anyhow like the UIM, throttle body, IC pipping, ac is on the list and hopefully we can get this pressure figured out. If its not the pressure maybe something was messed up in the logicon when it was re-soldered. When the ac would click on the ac light would go noticeably dimmer, when it switched off it would be normal brightness

 

Ok, now that I have the fan I would like to employ its 2 speed feature, what two sensors can I use to allow it to trigger the speeds? I know the top sensor on top of the filler neck is responsible for fan operation after certain temperature. There are two more sensors one at the bottom of the radiator and one behind the top filler neck. Can they be used? I know I will have to wire in 2 relays, I already have a good Idea about that, just need to know what sensors to use as feedback.
Thanks.

 

The switch at the bottom of the radiator is part of the emission/cold start system. It works at a very low temp that will no help with the cooling fan.

The one on the thermostat neck, https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-control-electric-fan-factory-thermoswitch-886862/

I personally use the two-speed feature as follows: I switch the low speed fan on at 195* off at 185* using a switch in the radiator (custom job). I only use high speed when the A/C compressor comes on. I use custom wiring with 2 relays.

clokker has a thread with the Vulvo cooling relay. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/wiring-taurus-2-speed-fan-839089/

He uses a two temperature switch from a VW Rabbit...works great, but I don't exactly know how to integrate A/C into that.. never really thought about it much. I played around with it and I have one around here somewhere if you are interested, PM me.

 

Ah good point Rob.

See, mine wasn't made to run a FMIC. Was for a swap. I never thought about it with a FMIC.

Thanks!