Electric fan for Koyo Rad
Electric fan for Koyo Rad
I've been shopping around for an electric fan and shroud to fit onto my Koyo rad for my FC. The dimensions are 16 15/16'' H X 22 3/8'' W X 2 1/16 TH.
There are plenty of write ups that I have been able to find but the answers vary so greatly it's really hard for me to decide whats my best option. There are some write ups saying use a GM fan, others saying to use a Fiero fan.
This is a pretty big budget build (Bullseye S362 turbo) so I feel like it's silly to use a junkyard fan... Is there a site where I can just purchase a new E fan and shroud that will work perfectly? Here's the only one I could find...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-18024/
Thanks! I'd really prefer a direct link to something I can just order the part install it and be done with this.
There are plenty of write ups that I have been able to find but the answers vary so greatly it's really hard for me to decide whats my best option. There are some write ups saying use a GM fan, others saying to use a Fiero fan.
This is a pretty big budget build (Bullseye S362 turbo) so I feel like it's silly to use a junkyard fan... Is there a site where I can just purchase a new E fan and shroud that will work perfectly? Here's the only one I could find...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-18024/
Thanks! I'd really prefer a direct link to something I can just order the part install it and be done with this.
^+1 ....im running this......cools the ***** down right away.....i didnt even bother with the 2 speed bull, just used the high setting. drops temps like mad.
best part.....cost me $15 at the wrecking yard.
btw, spray paint it, buy wiring covers/sleeves. itll look stock.
best part.....cost me $15 at the wrecking yard.
btw, spray paint it, buy wiring covers/sleeves. itll look stock.
Last edited by arsinal4496; Dec 6, 2011 at 11:06 PM.
Ive got a 16" SPAL on my Nflow its a push type, heaps of room in front on a FC.
if anything its to cold, i cant get the thing to warm up enough.. even on 100+ Fahrenheit days (which are common here).
if anything its to cold, i cant get the thing to warm up enough.. even on 100+ Fahrenheit days (which are common here).
this thread would be better placed in the 2nd gen specific section. I use a Pontiac 6000 fan, same as Aaron Cake. Nice thing about it is that it was cheap and I can get a new fan motor on the shelf at an auto parts store if it fails. I have a Fluidyne aluminum radiator. It has custom brackets for the fan and I control it through the Power FC, but you can also control it with a thermoswitch. I am running a Garrett T67/T04R turbo
I got pontiac fiero GT fan on my copper koyo rad, its a beast as well and doesn't have the amperage draw of the Taurus fan.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9hq_fT45CE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9hq_fT45CE
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I use a black magic fan. It fits completely over the radiator. I only had to cut two small holes for upper and lower radiator hoses. Cars stays cool with this setup even on 100f days. Its the single pull type fan. I thinks it pulls 3200 cfms.
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Mercury Villager Van..has a 2 speed fan with shroud that will fit with minimal cutting.
Blows crazy!..Oh fits like a glove,I got one on my Koyo N Flow.
Blows crazy!..Oh fits like a glove,I got one on my Koyo N Flow.
Look people, there's only one reason to switch from a properly functioning stock mechanical fan to an efan and that is the precise and targeted way it can be used.
The thermoclutch fan works fine but is a relatively blunt instrument...it's always on and varies just a bit with temp changes (which it can only sense indirectly).
The efan can be setup to respond more quickly (both on and off) to cooling needs, that's it's one and only advantage.
Your water temp doesn't suddenly spike from 190° to say, 230° (and if it does, no fan is going to help you because something else is going on), so why hammer a slight rise in temp with the full force of the fan?
In a normally running car, the temp will range between about 180ish to 195° or so (remember, the thermostat isn't even fully open til about 192°)...that's totally OK and to be expected. Trying to keep the temp at 180° all the time is a fool's errand and shows a lack of understanding of the cooling system as a whole.
In the years I've been experimenting with efans (and I've tried pretty much all of 'em), I don't remember a single time that the high speed has activated.
In fact, I've paranoid checked the high speed just to make sure it actually worked because it never kicks in.
You've spent the money on a shiny new rad (and presumably, new hoses, thermostat, waterpump and pressure cap) so why cheap out on the fan and it's controls?
It's easy to setup and IMO, just running on high speed is lazy and wrong.
Just my $.02 (adjusted for inflation, $.10).
Edit: My preference is unquestionably for OEM fans over any aftermarket types. If for some reason you're averse to a junkyard sourced fan, places like Rock Auto/Advance, etc. sell replacement versions pretty reasonably.
I've never paid any attention to year but I think the motors are the 3.8l.
In the junkyard all you need to pay attention to is the number of wires to the fan...3 wires= 2-speed fan.
In the junkyard all you need to pay attention to is the number of wires to the fan...3 wires= 2-speed fan.
I'm running the taurus fan on my koyo with a hayden adjustable fan kit you can adjust turn on from 160 to 270 degrees works pretty well no overheating issues yet. But I know that high speed will kill the oem aternator in no time if you push the car hard
Ford/Mercury/Lincoln 3.8L is the motor you're looking for.
They have a big 3800 on the intake manifold. The main give away once you're under the hood is the 3 wires going to the efan motor. 2 wire is not the right one. Must be 3 wires. They are generally colored (Black, Black with Orange stripe, Black with Yellow stripe)
I have been running one for about 4 years now.
A new Koyo + Taurus efan = 180-195 degree coolant temps during the summer(105-110~f outside) on high speed.
Since I mostly track the car, I have it manually rigged to the green diagnostic plug ignition on, power pin.
You need a 40amp fuse and a 40+amp relay for high speed. It will melt 30amp relays in minutes on high speed.
I highly recommend this relay. (70amp)
http://www.delcity.net/store/Normall...y/p_791796.a_1
Extremely reliable and good company.
I run low speed on a 30amp relay and fuse and it's been fine.
Use large gauge wire for the fans power and ground lines. The fan sucks up energy and you don't want to fry a wire(past experience...).
A FD alternator is a wise upgrade at the same time.
If you want to control the fan correctly, then I recommend the Dakota Digital Efan controller.
I have it on my 240sx and love it.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd641.htm
It's got digital readout, can program to an already existing temp sensor of you can put one inline like I have in the pic.

I then did a hack to my console so I had a digital temp gauge in car
They have a big 3800 on the intake manifold. The main give away once you're under the hood is the 3 wires going to the efan motor. 2 wire is not the right one. Must be 3 wires. They are generally colored (Black, Black with Orange stripe, Black with Yellow stripe)
I have been running one for about 4 years now.
A new Koyo + Taurus efan = 180-195 degree coolant temps during the summer(105-110~f outside) on high speed.
Since I mostly track the car, I have it manually rigged to the green diagnostic plug ignition on, power pin.
You need a 40amp fuse and a 40+amp relay for high speed. It will melt 30amp relays in minutes on high speed.
I highly recommend this relay. (70amp)
http://www.delcity.net/store/Normall...y/p_791796.a_1
Extremely reliable and good company.
I run low speed on a 30amp relay and fuse and it's been fine.
Use large gauge wire for the fans power and ground lines. The fan sucks up energy and you don't want to fry a wire(past experience...).
A FD alternator is a wise upgrade at the same time.
If you want to control the fan correctly, then I recommend the Dakota Digital Efan controller.
I have it on my 240sx and love it.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd641.htm
It's got digital readout, can program to an already existing temp sensor of you can put one inline like I have in the pic.

I then did a hack to my console so I had a digital temp gauge in car
big factor is if you have a FMIC and if you are keeping AC.
without those 2 the fan does not become as crucial.
I have both and had what was thought to be a good set up on there and it was not sufficient.
Maybe I should try the low speed setting on the taurus to see how it does versus the high speed.
my advice- unless you are going for aesthetics in a nice engine bay or V-mount keep the stock fan
without those 2 the fan does not become as crucial.
I have both and had what was thought to be a good set up on there and it was not sufficient.
Maybe I should try the low speed setting on the taurus to see how it does versus the high speed.
my advice- unless you are going for aesthetics in a nice engine bay or V-mount keep the stock fan
Those devices are now 20-some years old and likely not as spry as they once were.
Lots of cars of that era used very similar equipment and in junkyards they either freespin like crazy or are completely locked up.
In the former, they are unusable.
The latter can be run but you have what sounds like a helicopter under the hood.
And the bastards are expensive to buy new (if that's even possible anymore).
If you're patient/creative/willing to scrounge yards, you can assemble a toprate fan system for under $50- I'd put my arrangement up against anyone's for reliability/serviceability/performance...except maybe Digi7ech's because that **** is beautiful.
A question about that DD controller...
How do you input parameters?
I've got DD boxes for the tach/speedo in the FD and you have this horrible dipswitch and tiny button interface (which fortunately you really only mess with once, but still...).
^same deal. two little buttons.
Hold both to get into setup mode and then use buttons to go up or down in temp and select 4 different modes of fan control.
The display only shows up when you hit the left button as a momentary display. I desoldered the button and wired it to that switch next to it. I can now switch it on permanently or have it not display. Now it's not only a fan controller but a temp gauge
On my 240sx I have it switch low speed fans on at 174f and off at 171f. High speed comes on at 180f and turns off at 174f.
That potentiometer on the right can be used for testing. You can get to diagnostic mode and make it think the temps are going up via the potentiometer. That way you can test fan on and off with out running the car.
It also has error codes so you can tell when the sensor is disconnected or low voltage
Hold both to get into setup mode and then use buttons to go up or down in temp and select 4 different modes of fan control.
The display only shows up when you hit the left button as a momentary display. I desoldered the button and wired it to that switch next to it. I can now switch it on permanently or have it not display. Now it's not only a fan controller but a temp gauge

On my 240sx I have it switch low speed fans on at 174f and off at 171f. High speed comes on at 180f and turns off at 174f.
That potentiometer on the right can be used for testing. You can get to diagnostic mode and make it think the temps are going up via the potentiometer. That way you can test fan on and off with out running the car.
It also has error codes so you can tell when the sensor is disconnected or low voltage
That's a ridiculous way to do it and I'm guessing that it's also manually activated- or even worse- always on.
Look people, there's only one reason to switch from a properly functioning stock mechanical fan to an efan and that is the precise and targeted way it can be used.
The thermoclutch fan works fine but is a relatively blunt instrument...it's always on and varies just a bit with temp changes (which it can only sense indirectly).
The efan can be setup to respond more quickly (both on and off) to cooling needs, that's it's one and only advantage.
Your water temp doesn't suddenly spike from 190° to say, 230° (and if it does, no fan is going to help you because something else is going on), so why hammer a slight rise in temp with the full force of the fan?
In a normally running car, the temp will range between about 180ish to 195° or so (remember, the thermostat isn't even fully open til about 192°)...that's totally OK and to be expected. Trying to keep the temp at 180° all the time is a fool's errand and shows a lack of understanding of the cooling system as a whole.
In the years I've been experimenting with efans (and I've tried pretty much all of 'em), I don't remember a single time that the high speed has activated.
In fact, I've paranoid checked the high speed just to make sure it actually worked because it never kicks in.
You've spent the money on a shiny new rad (and presumably, new hoses, thermostat, waterpump and pressure cap) so why cheap out on the fan and it's controls?
It's easy to setup and IMO, just running on high speed is lazy and wrong.
Just my $.02 (adjusted for inflation, $.10).
Edit: My preference is unquestionably for OEM fans over any aftermarket types. If for some reason you're averse to a junkyard sourced fan, places like Rock Auto/Advance, etc. sell replacement versions pretty reasonably.
Look people, there's only one reason to switch from a properly functioning stock mechanical fan to an efan and that is the precise and targeted way it can be used.
The thermoclutch fan works fine but is a relatively blunt instrument...it's always on and varies just a bit with temp changes (which it can only sense indirectly).
The efan can be setup to respond more quickly (both on and off) to cooling needs, that's it's one and only advantage.
Your water temp doesn't suddenly spike from 190° to say, 230° (and if it does, no fan is going to help you because something else is going on), so why hammer a slight rise in temp with the full force of the fan?
In a normally running car, the temp will range between about 180ish to 195° or so (remember, the thermostat isn't even fully open til about 192°)...that's totally OK and to be expected. Trying to keep the temp at 180° all the time is a fool's errand and shows a lack of understanding of the cooling system as a whole.
In the years I've been experimenting with efans (and I've tried pretty much all of 'em), I don't remember a single time that the high speed has activated.
In fact, I've paranoid checked the high speed just to make sure it actually worked because it never kicks in.
You've spent the money on a shiny new rad (and presumably, new hoses, thermostat, waterpump and pressure cap) so why cheap out on the fan and it's controls?
It's easy to setup and IMO, just running on high speed is lazy and wrong.
Just my $.02 (adjusted for inflation, $.10).
Edit: My preference is unquestionably for OEM fans over any aftermarket types. If for some reason you're averse to a junkyard sourced fan, places like Rock Auto/Advance, etc. sell replacement versions pretty reasonably.
i fiddled around with the low setting and high setting. even thought about using the low setting under normal driving and use the high setting when the a/c was in use only. in the end i ditched the ac system all together, and to be honest the low setting cooled it down good enough, but i said f*** it and wired it to the high setting. Haven't had any issue to date even in 110 degree southern california summer days, so im a happy camper.
Im with you that the stock fan is the best no dought about that. and if i could, i would still be using it, i actually still have it stored in my garage. But my current set up doesnt allow for the stock shroud (not enough room), so an aftermarket fan (or tauraus fan in my case), was in order.
^
no hard feelings
my cars constantly changing, slowly but surely. Its cold out, so this isnt really a worry for me now. When summer rolls back around im seriously just going to reroute the air intake pipe for the turbo, and run the stock clutch fan and shroud. The e-fan has all soldered connections, proper fuse and relay, but i still would prefer the reliability of the stock fan. call me paranoid, but i see it as one less thing to worry about (as long as the clutch on the fan isnt busted ofcoarse).
no hard feelings

my cars constantly changing, slowly but surely. Its cold out, so this isnt really a worry for me now. When summer rolls back around im seriously just going to reroute the air intake pipe for the turbo, and run the stock clutch fan and shroud. The e-fan has all soldered connections, proper fuse and relay, but i still would prefer the reliability of the stock fan. call me paranoid, but i see it as one less thing to worry about (as long as the clutch on the fan isnt busted ofcoarse).






