anybody out there done the electric fan conversion?
i'm looking into Flex-A-Lite #210. it's a dual fan setup.
i'm looking into better cooling without replacing the radiator to fluidyne as it is a bit too costly for me.

dais
90gtus

 

check this page for the fans.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/lowprof.htm

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&highlight=fan

Check my post in this thread for my mod.

 

a fiero fan with the shroud fits the fc radiator perfect. You could upgrade from there if you still want more cooling power and cut the fan out of the shroud and put in a flex.

 

I just finished installing a fiero fan on my car. I used a thermostatic switch for it. The fan basically covers the whole radiator and cools very well. I took it out for a spin and my temps were a bit lower. I give the fiero fan a big thumbs up hehe. Installation was easy.

 

what temps are you seeing with the escort and fiero fan?

 

I am also trying to decide between a Fiero fan or the Escort fan that Kevin runs. I really like the idea of the two stages in the Escort fan.

 

sounds like the escort elctric fan gets my vote. now, would i get one from a junk yard? if so what year? and what else do i need to complete this conversion?

 

i highly suggest wireing them to a switch so you can turn them off when you shut the car down i had a few battery issues with this

james

 

that's how it's setup in my '85 GSL-SE but, i'd rather have it turn on/off automatically with some sort of a thermostat switch. any suggestions?

dais
90gtus

 

If you buy a used fan, you will have to buy a thermoswitch, relay, wire, fuse, mounts, override switch(in car in case thermoswitch fails......). If you buy a new fan, you should be able to buy it with everything included(or as cheap addon). I am still anti: used, untested, hours of use unknown, CFM?...........

The flexalites are expensive($220+ for the mentioned #210 which has everthing included). You also will have basic cooling if one of the motors burns out.
Just get the permacool or summit brand from summitracing.com
$90 for the 16" 2000+ cfm fan and $20 for the 170 degree unadjustable thermoswitch. You will have a pseudo warranty and it should last a long time because it is brand spanking new.

Avoid the hayden electric fans from pepboys/autozone/carpart stores. I have two(a 16" and a 12") and they together can barely keep a 150hpV6 bad weather beater from overheating in traffic. Either one alone and the car overheats(all cooling components are new). Their combined CFM is almost equal to one better quality flexalight/permacool/spal/becool 16 inch fan.

 

Because the FC radiator is nearly square, one bigger fan covers more area of the radiator than two smaller ones, and will flow more air. Fans only affect cooling at slow speeds and when stopped. Unless there’s a problem with the stock fan’s clutch, an electric fan won’t improve cooling (a stock fan moves a lot of air), it just removes some parasitic losses. If you are having cooling probs, find out why before you start replacing stuff at random. Let us know what’s happening so we can help diagnose the problem.

 

actually, i dont think i have any problem with cooling right now. i just know rotary engines run relatively hotter. and i was thinking dual electric fan such as flexalite setup will increase the air flow. (i want to make sure my engine runs relatively cooler). i was thinking of propping the hood open on the hinge-side but as the hinges on FCs are bolted at an angle that's not possible as done on some FDs.

about cooling during idle, i also want that because that's when you want the cooling to be in effect. for example, after a run through the canyons when you come to a rest stop or so, that's when you want to have efficient cooling. almost like a turbotimer feature, only my engine is NA and is for cooling system.

let me know what you guys think.
dais
90gtus

 

True that.........true that.

 

Rotaries don't run hotter than piston engines; coolant temps should be the same. The amount of heat that needs to be removed by the cooling system is the same as any other engine with the same power output, and this should be well within the capacity of the stock cooling system, at least until you start making a lot more power than standard.
If you're really worried about this, the first thing you should do is buy and install a quality aftermarket water temp gauge, as the stock gauge isn’t nearly accurate enough for this sort of diagnosis. That way you’ll be able to see if you need to do anything at all. If the temp remains pretty constant then you really don’t need to upgrade anything. Just make sure everything is up to scratch. Make sure the coolant is fresh, flush the entire cooling system, clear any debris from both the radiator and A/C condenser, etc.
If then the cooling system is 100% and still can't hack it, then it's time to modify.

 

NZConvertible,
i agree, "if it ain't broke, no need to fix"
but in this case, i thought of freeing up some rotating mass(fan assembly) and to increase airflow through the radiator.

the reason for all this is the following...
in irvine, ca, it's been hot(okay, it may not be hot compared to some other areas of the world). anyway, i've noticed an increase in ambient temp. and i had some coolant leak caused by expansion of the lower radiator hose (yes, the hose is fairly new, still in great condition). so i thought about increasing the airflow through the radiator. the only mod i have on my GTUs is Apex GTspec cat-back exhaust so i know i'm not pushing the engine at all.

i may be wrong about this but i'm just trying to figure out what small mods i can do to increase the reliability/efficiency.

dais
90gtus