electircal/fuse questions.
#1
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electircal/fuse questions.
im not getting power to my starter, im sure this is because the 80a "main" fuse is blown, is that why?
4 fuses are blown in the interior fuse box, which could be why i have no interior lights except the door lights and the hatch lights, right?
when i bought it the guy was trying to install a fancy ghetto blaster system in there and theres switches every which way which i have no clue what goes to what and im scared to rip them off. but anyway, when the hatch is closed, it reads hatch open on my idiot light panel. when i close the door the door lights turn off, but my idiot light panel still reads hatch open, and now with the door closed reads door open. but when their open, the lights are off.
what could be the problem?
4 fuses are blown in the interior fuse box, which could be why i have no interior lights except the door lights and the hatch lights, right?
when i bought it the guy was trying to install a fancy ghetto blaster system in there and theres switches every which way which i have no clue what goes to what and im scared to rip them off. but anyway, when the hatch is closed, it reads hatch open on my idiot light panel. when i close the door the door lights turn off, but my idiot light panel still reads hatch open, and now with the door closed reads door open. but when their open, the lights are off.
what could be the problem?
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it turns out the switch behind the seat is for the fuel pump.. but its not connected to anything so i have no idea if the fuel pump is even getting power to it or not.. better yet i know nothing about electrical. and better yet better yet, i have no clue how to read wiring diagrams..
#5
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it turns out the switch behind the seat is for the fuel pump.. but its not connected to anything so i have no idea if the fuel pump is even getting power to it or not.. better yet i know nothing about electrical. and better yet better yet, i have no clue how to read wiring diagrams..
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If the fuel check connector were jumpered and everything else was wired up properly related the the fuel delivery system then w/key to on the fuel pump would turn on and you could also sense the fuel running through the fuel rails.
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so could i connect the two wires and it will work as normal?
EDIT: as it is, the only wire cut on the circuit opening relay, is the red and black one. so i went out and took some pictures of the electrical system as it sits. this is what i have. gotten
(side note) if anyone could tell me the order of the missing fuses in the fuse box in picture number 2, on a s4 na rx7 that would be great. ie. 5 10 15 20 25 30? theres only 3 slots left, and im replacing my main fuse (80a) in about 5 minutes so hopefully i can get some power out of it
EDIT: as it is, the only wire cut on the circuit opening relay, is the red and black one. so i went out and took some pictures of the electrical system as it sits. this is what i have. gotten
(side note) if anyone could tell me the order of the missing fuses in the fuse box in picture number 2, on a s4 na rx7 that would be great. ie. 5 10 15 20 25 30? theres only 3 slots left, and im replacing my main fuse (80a) in about 5 minutes so hopefully i can get some power out of it
Last edited by jstevens1992; 03-13-11 at 06:21 PM. Reason: updated
#7
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Depends on how the wiring for the pump in your car is wired. Normally, the wires would not be cut as such at the relay and would have to be reconnected to return the wiring to stock. If they initially had a fuel cut switch wired in you'll find out soon enough why. You mentioned a switch "behind the seat" related to the fuel pump. Not sure what this is as it doesn't sound stock.
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it is not, there was a blue wire, with a green stripe about every 6 inches, it had been cut in half, and spliced to a white wire, which in turn was supposed to connect to the switch, but it just has a blue cap, im thinking i can just re connect the blue wires and they would run as normal, same with the black and red wires cut on the circuit relay. you can view pictures above, should explain exactly what im talking about.
#9
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Yes, the Black/Red wire should be reconnected. When working properly the Blue wires should have voltage when the car is "started" and "running" (two different things). In the second to last pic shows a Blue covered harness coming from a metalllic looking plate with a rubber grommet. That is the fuel pump harness and connects to the rear harness near the driver side rear fenderwell. The Blue wires in this rear harness should also have voltage like above because it is the same wires.
There is a pic of the fues box panel in the following link: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/
There is a pic of the fues box panel in the following link: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/
#10
Rotary Freak
In picture four..........the two black wires in the single lug...........bolt them to the chassis and see if you Hatch and Door light irregularity goes away.
The fuel pump gnd is on a ring terminal like the one in that picture. There's two of those ring terminals on the back bulkhead. One left......one right side.
The fuel pump gnd is on a ring terminal like the one in that picture. There's two of those ring terminals on the back bulkhead. One left......one right side.
#12
Rotary Freak
The sixth thread on this 2nd generation site is called FAQ.
Open it and go down that page and you'll find a picture of the interior fuse box and lables for the fuses.
Black wires on a lug terminal ..............all those NEED to be grounded. Like bolted to the chassis.
IF there's any radio in this car not stock.........................unplug every darn plug going to it. Especially remove that damn red wire going to the interior fuse box. Sad way to do business.
The Black/Red wire at the circuit opening relay..............only has power on it when the key is HELD to START, in order for the relay to pull in and power the fuel pump during STARTING. It does need to be put back to normal stk configuration. Only time you'll see pwr on that wire is when the key is held to Start.
Must be a non turbo car what with the Black/Red in the circuit opening relay.
The Black/white wire in that plug should have batt volage any time the key is to ON or better. Powers the fuel pump when the rela is pulled in..
Can't see the wire colors on that eight hole plug so .........got me. No wire colors no info.
Last picture.......single black wire and connector. Got me. Probably a path to gnd for some lighting back there.
Open it and go down that page and you'll find a picture of the interior fuse box and lables for the fuses.
Black wires on a lug terminal ..............all those NEED to be grounded. Like bolted to the chassis.
IF there's any radio in this car not stock.........................unplug every darn plug going to it. Especially remove that damn red wire going to the interior fuse box. Sad way to do business.
The Black/Red wire at the circuit opening relay..............only has power on it when the key is HELD to START, in order for the relay to pull in and power the fuel pump during STARTING. It does need to be put back to normal stk configuration. Only time you'll see pwr on that wire is when the key is held to Start.
Must be a non turbo car what with the Black/Red in the circuit opening relay.
The Black/white wire in that plug should have batt volage any time the key is to ON or better. Powers the fuel pump when the rela is pulled in..
Can't see the wire colors on that eight hole plug so .........got me. No wire colors no info.
Last picture.......single black wire and connector. Got me. Probably a path to gnd for some lighting back there.
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i will ground those asap, in the mean time, i cant get the stereo itself out to throw it out. and what is the red wire leading to the fuse box?
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in picture 1: does the red and black wire have to be connected to start the car?
in picture 3: what is the blue and green wire cut in half?
in picture 5:what is the connector shown? its located in the rear of the driver side, next to the fuel pump kindof.
in picture 6: that is a wire leading to the fuel pump. i turned the car on but the pump did not prep, meaning theres something missing somewhere, right?
also my dash lights do not work.. neither do my door lights anymore. but the door lights were working last night. so what do i start with when troubleshooting the issue?
in picture 3: what is the blue and green wire cut in half?
in picture 5:what is the connector shown? its located in the rear of the driver side, next to the fuel pump kindof.
in picture 6: that is a wire leading to the fuel pump. i turned the car on but the pump did not prep, meaning theres something missing somewhere, right?
also my dash lights do not work.. neither do my door lights anymore. but the door lights were working last night. so what do i start with when troubleshooting the issue?
#17
Rotary Freak
See the attached jpgs.
Make sure the ENGINE FUSE and BOTH EGI fuse are good plus the MAIN fuse.
Things Satch needs to know to help you............put the key to ON only. Now turn the turn signals on and see if they work. Did they?
Now turn the wipers on and see if they work. Did they?
With the key in the ON position only ........do the gauges show any signs of moving? Like fuel gauge, temp gauge, oil gauge, VOLT gauge?
He needs to know if these things work when the key is put to ON only. Why? Because these items are fed power only if the key is turned ON. In other words the key feeds several rows of fuses in the interior fuse box and he NEEDS to know if that is happening in order to help out. I realize some of these items might have been flat broke prior to you owning the car........but not all are broke. So if one works that still tells a lot about where power is going in this car.
IF any of those items work, then its almost a given that the ENGINE fuse is being fed power and just has to be a Good fuse to work. ENGINE fuse powers the fuel pump, Main Relay for starters.
Seeing as how the idiot lights work to some extent.........that might prove that the key is powering the interior fuse box 'cause the Meter fuse is what powers the idiot lights. BUT there is so much irregular with the lighting that we'd prefer you answer the questions above for sure. It sounds a bit like that batt bus is backfeeding some of those light circuits that should not be lighting up. But that's for later.
I'll go look at my car later in the morning to see what those items you mention are or might be.
Make sure the ENGINE FUSE and BOTH EGI fuse are good plus the MAIN fuse.
Things Satch needs to know to help you............put the key to ON only. Now turn the turn signals on and see if they work. Did they?
Now turn the wipers on and see if they work. Did they?
With the key in the ON position only ........do the gauges show any signs of moving? Like fuel gauge, temp gauge, oil gauge, VOLT gauge?
He needs to know if these things work when the key is put to ON only. Why? Because these items are fed power only if the key is turned ON. In other words the key feeds several rows of fuses in the interior fuse box and he NEEDS to know if that is happening in order to help out. I realize some of these items might have been flat broke prior to you owning the car........but not all are broke. So if one works that still tells a lot about where power is going in this car.
IF any of those items work, then its almost a given that the ENGINE fuse is being fed power and just has to be a Good fuse to work. ENGINE fuse powers the fuel pump, Main Relay for starters.
Seeing as how the idiot lights work to some extent.........that might prove that the key is powering the interior fuse box 'cause the Meter fuse is what powers the idiot lights. BUT there is so much irregular with the lighting that we'd prefer you answer the questions above for sure. It sounds a bit like that batt bus is backfeeding some of those light circuits that should not be lighting up. But that's for later.
I'll go look at my car later in the morning to see what those items you mention are or might be.
#18
Rotary Freak
In your sixth picture.....that cable is feeding the fuel pump plus picking up the fuel level signal for the gauges. The single BLACK wire with the ring terminal NEEDS to be screwed to the chassis.
If you have not already...............follow that cable coming out of the fuel pump back in the other direction. You will find it teminates in an electrical plug attached to the read of the left rear strut tower (under the carpeting). IS that cable connected to the harness or not? It should be connected to the rear harness to a plug that has a Blue wire, a Black wire, a white/red wire and a white/green wire. The Blue wire and Black wire are the important ones. The Blue feeds power to the pump and the Black is the gnd wire for the pump. Blue only has power if the engine is running or the key is HELD to Start or if the fuel pump check connector is jumpered with key ON. Fuel pump check connector is nearby the pressure sensor in the engine bay....is yellow in color and has to sockets in it and is connected to nothing at all. JUmper means putting a piece of electrical wire bare at each end into one socket and the other end of the jumper wire into the other socket to make the fuel pump run with key ON only.
If you have not already...............follow that cable coming out of the fuel pump back in the other direction. You will find it teminates in an electrical plug attached to the read of the left rear strut tower (under the carpeting). IS that cable connected to the harness or not? It should be connected to the rear harness to a plug that has a Blue wire, a Black wire, a white/red wire and a white/green wire. The Blue wire and Black wire are the important ones. The Blue feeds power to the pump and the Black is the gnd wire for the pump. Blue only has power if the engine is running or the key is HELD to Start or if the fuel pump check connector is jumpered with key ON. Fuel pump check connector is nearby the pressure sensor in the engine bay....is yellow in color and has to sockets in it and is connected to nothing at all. JUmper means putting a piece of electrical wire bare at each end into one socket and the other end of the jumper wire into the other socket to make the fuel pump run with key ON only.
#19
Rotary Freak
Picture seven.......a single black wire with connector.............connects to that single green wire in the background of that picture. It senses when the hatch is closed or not. Along with it's brother on the left hatch latch.
My cars do not have the plug in picture five. that eight socket connector. IF we had a picture of the wire colors in that plug we could tell you. But rest assured it has nothing to do with fuel pump pwr.
In picture four. .........I think the cut yellow and cut white wires once upon a time went to the antenna motor. Not fuel related not essential to driving.
My cars do not have the plug in picture five. that eight socket connector. IF we had a picture of the wire colors in that plug we could tell you. But rest assured it has nothing to do with fuel pump pwr.
In picture four. .........I think the cut yellow and cut white wires once upon a time went to the antenna motor. Not fuel related not essential to driving.
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ahh, could be true. we shall find out later tonight. i found 3 connectors on the driver side of the dash, where there is a screw holding a triangle plate on near the floor board. no lead to what they go to just yet. ill pull the dash back and look around to see if i can find anything, in the mean time, does anyone know what these are?
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