Elec. Guru's w/ FSM's
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Springfield, MO
Elec. Guru's w/ FSM's
Ok, I'm relooming the engine harness on my (emissionless) RX-7; while doing so, I want to get rid of all the connectors I don't need.
So, just to double check; (Section 4 (non-turbo) of the FSM)
I can remove the 3O (fan amp.), 3M (prcv sol.), 3J (aws), 2O (sw sol {and the check connector attached to that wire}), 2P (relief sol.), 2J (canada only), and 2N (apl sol.) wires w/o effecting any of the still-used systems... correct?
So, just to double check; (Section 4 (non-turbo) of the FSM)
I can remove the 3O (fan amp.), 3M (prcv sol.), 3J (aws), 2O (sw sol {and the check connector attached to that wire}), 2P (relief sol.), 2J (canada only), and 2N (apl sol.) wires w/o effecting any of the still-used systems... correct?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,456
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From: Springfield, MO
OH! And question about the ACV Solinoid. Wouldn't I need to put a resistor or something in there to keep the curcuit closed? I don't need ANOTHER 4 error codes.
3K startup is BAD. It prematurely wears out engines. It's only function is to light off the precats quickly for cold start emissions. JDM cars do not have this "feature" and yours shouldn't either.
As for the VDI and 6PI, well - I don't have that stuff, and would rather wire it all open than keep my airpump.
Brandon
As for the VDI and 6PI, well - I don't have that stuff, and would rather wire it all open than keep my airpump.

Brandon
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Springfield, MO
Well... I don't have an airpump either...
As per the 3K startup; it's GREAT when you have a large streetport and don't want to play with the gas for 15 minutes beforehand.
As per the 3K startup; it's GREAT when you have a large streetport and don't want to play with the gas for 15 minutes beforehand.
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For that, keep the AWSV, but wire it up to a +12V manually-switched power source. While your car is running really rich as part of the cold cycle, keep the switch on. After a few (20 or so, iirc) seconds, the car will begin to hunt. Kill the switch. Viola, instant cold-idle assist. Using various sizes of hose and restrictor methods can modify the RPM at which it sits and how it hunts - 1500 RPM is a nice number.
3000 RPM is simply much too high to rev a stone-cold motor.
Also, if you don't have an airpump, then the 6PI and VDI solenoids aren't doing anything, unless you've got some custom stuff going on.
Brandon
3000 RPM is simply much too high to rev a stone-cold motor.
Also, if you don't have an airpump, then the 6PI and VDI solenoids aren't doing anything, unless you've got some custom stuff going on.
Brandon
Flinstone Power
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 853
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
you dont need the AVC.. just remove your 5/6port sleeves and your golen.. the BAC valve is what you have to worry about with a cold start.. its what takes care of your idle for ya
...
so i take it your not gonna buy the harness?? i have a AVC plate i will sell ya $20 shipped..
Dave
... so i take it your not gonna buy the harness?? i have a AVC plate i will sell ya $20 shipped..
Dave
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,456
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From: Springfield, MO
I'm still having problems w/ payment on the TPS, so I'm looking at relooming my harness.
As per the 5/6th port sleeves, I have pineapples (better than none) the BAC valve doesn't control the accellerated warmup system, there's another solinoid on the metal vacuum rack. As per the ACv, I made a plate out of some 1/8-inch aluminum I had.
As per the 5/6th port sleeves, I have pineapples (better than none) the BAC valve doesn't control the accellerated warmup system, there's another solinoid on the metal vacuum rack. As per the ACv, I made a plate out of some 1/8-inch aluminum I had.
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