im gathering the parts for a 6port turbo build. im looking to make a simple and easy 250 hp(im not into the whole 1000000 hp search) its mainly gonna be a daily driver/ canyon car. im not too sure about ecu's and i need some guidence on what ecu will be best for my build. ive read the threads but the only real info ive found important is get an ecu your tuner knows best. everyone is always looking for 500hp + so their info doesnt really help me much seeing as im only after 250hp. i will be taking my finished car to tune at LUCKY 7 RACING since they are the closest to me and they tune pretty much everything acording to their site LOL. thanks for any guidance

 

get something capable of user configuration so it can grow with your needs

that rules out older microtechs

get something you can share maps across the net with other users

that rules out all microtechs

get something capable of 4 coil sequential operation so you wont be left in a rut if you ever get the 400 rwhp itch
unfortunately that rules out the PFC..
which is getting a little long in the tooth,, and doesnt immediately adapt to the FC setup unless you have a rarer special version

you wont go too wrong with the haltechs ,, you will find a tuner in most corners
just be sure the model you get has the ins and outputs you will need
and by that i mean it is a 4 coil sequential version ( some early E models are not )
and also for use with the eomp ( if and when required )
and then has spares left for boost control etc

else there is plenty of user and long distance support here on the forums for the ms2 and ms3

and the same can be said for the adaptronic ecus , which are superb bang for buck
with tuners springing up here and there, and even remote tuning being avail from here

 

I will be down training in lucky7 racing on how to tune the Adaptronic ECUs before sevenstock. They lost their regular tuner, and I am pretty sure they will only be tuning the Adaptronic brand from here on out. It would probably be wise to buy a PNP unit from them.

 

if your really only looking for 250 hp,
port match t2 manifolds, get a bnr stage 1-3 turbo, get a s5 turbo ecu, and boost sensor go
with the Rtek 2.1 (for turbo ecu)

cheapest plug and play. but make sure who ever you have tuning knows how to use it

 

great info guys thanks a ton. what days and hours will you be training at lucky 7? at the most if i even decide to get a little more power my absolute max is 350HP but for now im happy with 250

i actually am port matching the turbo manifold to my na, and was gonna get a regular tii ecu but i figured a standalone would be best. if the stock one will suit my needs for now that may be the route ill take at the moment, but i eventually will get an aftermarket ecu. thanks again guys

 

the rtek 2.1 is like a standalone inside the stock ecu, they make the timing and fuel maps fully programmable. however it does have its limits.
main limits are the AFM maxes out around 300-350 hp( you can still tune past that a ways however)

and the stock boost sensor is only 2 bar, so tuning/running above 1 bar of boost isn't a good idea....

that being said the ecu is programmable enough to meet your hp goal easily

 

I will be down the 2 days prior to Sevenstock. We will be dyno tuning 6+ cars.

 

I was planning on making a trip to lucky7 on my lunch break to check out the place. Ive read nothing but good things but I wanna see the place for myself. Its litterally a few vlocks from my work lol

RUNAWAYS
racing

 

Lolololol

Do NOT buy a microtech!

 

Lol read it loud and clear LOL

RUNAWAYS
racing

 

seriously, get into that shop and have a look at the possibilities a good standalone brings

and good does not always mean pricey, those adaptronics will prove excellent value

and simple things, like an effective close loop cruise
and good control of the injector and its injection angle timing , irrespective of the sizes and grouping
that are user friendly to setup .. will rapidly recoup your extra money lost in a good setup against the price of fuel

make your decisions when you see the tuner and the results in action

 

The T2 6-port hybrid is very well covered by AaronCake on his website, and I'm sure he has info somewhere here on the forum. He went with Megasquirt for his application.

2nd Gen RX-7 Modifications

I would message him, since he has already been down the road of turboing a 6-port

The (Almost) Complete Guide To Turbocharging The Naturally Aspirated Second Generation RX-7

 

hmm great advice. so i should make a trip to lucky7 and ask them for some help direct on what they are experienced with as well as the perks and all that. i think ill pay them a visit on one of my lunch breaks

i actually have read a lot of aaron's stuff including the cosmo build videos lol. thats actually where i learned of the 6 port turbo as well as on the forums.

i actually have another question. since i will be turbocharging will i need a new tachometer. seeing as the turboII only goes up to 8k would i have to have a different tach or will the stock tach be fine since its still an na engine?

 

you can reuse your gauge cluster without problem it will still read correctly for the rpms.

with an aftermarket ecu u can set the actual "redline" fuel cut to what ever rpm you want.

or with the rtek 2.1 for s5 t2 ecu The user can toggle between stock(8K fuel cut I think?) or 8700 rpm.

 

Thanks for the info

RUNAWAYS
racing

 

there is no rtek stage 2.1 upgrade for the S5 t2 ecu ...just stage 2

 

Taken off the website:
The Rtek Stage 2.1 for S4 TII cars is the second version of our stage 2 upgrade. It has many new features and increased flexibility. The original Stage 2.0 is no longer available as it has been replaced by the Stage 2.1.

 

Yet an other question. Im researching turbos and im wondering about the GARRETT GT35R. Would that turbo be fine for 250hp? I figure since I eventually wanna hit 350hp max it should be fine. Unless a 6 port turbo is incapable of reaching 350hp. Or should I just stick with the BNR?

RUNAWAYS
racing

 

You can hit over 500HP with a GT35R on a T2 or an REW. Look at Banzai Racing's FC Vert. with an RE out of a Cosmo. At 15 PSI it pushes 451HP to the tires.

Banzai Racing Home Page Click on Banzai Cars and the Project FC. I couldn't get a link straight to the page due to the way their site is set up.

 

Seriously a GT35R is too much turbo for this kind of scenario.
and really it's just that.(sorry man.)
Your goal is 250.
Rtek 2.1,Bnr Stage 3,750/1200 and 3 inch exhaust.you can get 300..see Solareon's thread in the RTEK section.

I used a Garrett T04s with a similar setup and the car was nuts.
The turbo then went onto a Haltech 1000 with 1000/2000 and 50mm wastegate..FD upper and I made 357................................at the wheels.

My Best advice to you is Since you are just fishing Bob you should start a budget and stay within it,seeing that you are just tossing part names out there.
Look at the builds threads and what the guys are running on that particular build.My car ideas stemmed from that and honestly every little thing that I opted to put on my car came from a proven setup that was posted on Forum..not mentioned as a "you should put this on and see what the fark it will do" scenario.All the parts are pretty compatable with each other and work rather well.
Now I won't say it's reliable but others besides myself will say that the darn car still runs!..and the funny thing is,is that it is quiet..you can hear the injector tick!..nice drone until you punch it!(then the landlord complains..lol!)

 

If you are on a budget and dont want 2 spent that much money buy a use L10S microtech.Not the best but proven 2 be good and have no ignition issues like others do.Is not as fancy and doesnt control everything but gets the job done.If you are into racing most high powered rotary engines do run microtech so if they are able 2 run a 2500hp 20B they will run your 250hp 13b with no issues.

 

Power FC is pretty simple to tune and you don't need direct fire to push 500 hp, it's nice to have it but don't need it.

The Adaptronic is also a good choice, and simple to tune.

 

I had an lt10s once for 3 years or so..itll get the job done but then your stuck with just that. I made 224 to the wheels with the stock turbo and it did work ok.

The ecu has 3 aux outputs. So lets say you run your fan with your microtech and have them turn on at a certain water temperature...itll do it.

You want to run a shift light and turn it on at 7.5k rpms...itll do it

2-step...itll do it

Meth...cant do it of youre already using the outputs for the three mentioned above.

Wideband...you can hook it up but the ecu wont do any changes.

Now i have a megasquirt ms3x. Has 8 injector outputs and 8 ignition outputs. Do you need 8 injectors and coils for a rotary? No. But those out puts just became something else.

I can run my efan, shift light and twostep while still having extra outputs for anything else i decide. Theyre grounds so i just have to add 12v to something and the ecu will do it. Like, im using "spark e" for a shift light. So i add 12v to a tiny led light on the stock tach and at whatever rpm, itll add the ground turning the bulb on. Im using "injector e" for a water temperature warning light. If i get too hot, the ecu adds ground to a different led bulb (also in the stock cluster where the water temp gauge is at) and itll let me know if im getting too hot since i dont feel like buying a gauge. (Im using my phone for gauges...inside the car, displays on the windshield..heads up display ) "Inj f" i turn my fan on. Leaving me with 5 extra outputs to add meth, electric water pump, dry sump...hell anything! I can hook it up to a laptop with out needing expensive dongles to make it work (that word cracks me up!!) And once the laptop is hooked up and i have the program running, i dont feel like im using 1980s technology

I hook up a wideband sensor and it becomes more than just a gauge. I can tell the ecu to not pass a certain af ratio (target afr)...i can add egt sensors and tell the ecu to not pass "x" amount of ex. heat....did i mention itll tune your car for you? You can also tune each rotor individually with 2 wideband sensors and two egt sensors. Did i mention that if you change to a 20b or piston engine you dont have to change ecu or send it back to australia so they can do the change for you? Lolol

This is just my ms3x and what i just talked about doesnt even wrap up the amount of things you can do with the ecu. I dunno know much about adaptronic but i hear all good things about them. Im sure you can do the same if not more. I paid 818 shipped but i had extra stuff added to my bill...sensors, pins and connectors etc. Buying an LT10s to get the job done is like masturbation. Not as fun as getting laid.

 

[QUOTE= Buying an LT10s to get the job done is like masturbation. Not as fun as getting laid.[/QUOTE]

This is gold

 

[QUOTE= Buying an LT10s to get the job done is like masturbation. Not as fun as getting laid.[/QUOTE]

I own a Haltech but the palms of my hands are still soft too.Chicks are ugly in town.
You need to wear gloves with the women around here...( I asked a girl what her name was and she said "Larry".............................wtf?..wron g bar...see ya...lol!)