AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Allright. So my car has been running like crap latley. Bogs down and my wideband shows it LEAN. However my stock o2 sensor would be reading .4-.5 volts. The lowest it would show was .23 and at idle it would read .95ish. I swapped out the sensor. Same ****. I used the narrow band imput from my wideband to read 02 and the same thing.

All I can thing is that somehow corrupting the signal inside the ecu. Unfortunatly this is a rtek 2.1 with 720X4 injectors so I cant just swap out a spare ECU.

Any ideas?????

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the O2 sensor is a dummy sensor and only works if a strict set of parameters are met, it does nothing while driving 99.5% of the time.

your issues sounds like it is fuel related such as low voltage to the pump or plugged up fuel filter. who tuned it and was it ever running right or did you just toss it in there and are having this issue?

always trust your wideband over the narrowband sensor, it is subject to old wiring issues like cracks in the wiring which cause the sensor signal to be skewed as it partially grounds out inside the wiring. a good sensor and wiring will bounce several times per second between ~.1v to .9v at 14.5 AFR, if your AFR isn't near that mark then the switching will be very lazy as you described. the narrowband sensor also takes a bit to warm up before the readings are accurate.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Yes it worked fine for the last few years. first i did the racing beat (different tuning) then the rtek 2.0 then upped the injectors to 720x4 also did walbro right after that. Finally i upgraded to the BNR stage 2. It ran right for about a year and a half in its current setup.

I first started to notice it a while ago when it would buck and run like crap when it was cold. That was it until last year when it started doing the same thing last fall. But this time it did it after it sat for a few minutes. thats what was getting me. The engine was still hot in most cases 175-185 or more. After about 1/4 mile it was fine. Now it likes to bog down for no apparent reason. When this happens my vacuum aproaches 0. Not sure if the vacuum causes the bogging or the bogging causes the low vacuum.

I used to use just a narrowband A/F meter and i would see it drop to the LEAN condition under decel, just like it should. But I don't see the voltage for the sensor dropping donw neear the 0 volt side. Like maybe .2ish at the lowest.
Unfortunatly i only have this one to drive right now as i seem to bee killing any car i drive So I cant check/clean the fuel injectors.

I gotta go te sears so i think i'll turn on the data loger to see whats what/

thanks
AUG

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

With my might powers of shitty luck I found out today that I did!!

Got my car at the shop right now and he calls me at tells me that in all the years he's been doing this he has never seen a broken one. WHOOOO HOOOOO I love being first!!!!!!!

I gues it sheared right throuth the center area. I guess it started near the oil jet(?) and just halved the the thing. It was still alowing my engine to turn over so that I would get good compression numbers, but it wouldn't go any more.

I'll try and post picts next week if I can.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

oh and apparantly nothing seized.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you mean the apex seal let go but is still in one piece(well multiple)? not uncommon. still sounds like a fuel system issue for multiple reasons now.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

disregaurd the post about the e-shaft. Different car.

and no it was the shaft

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Well I'm going to test the fuel voltage and realy. Maybe throw a new filter in cause they are cheap.

As stated above it idles fine. ( which is why i don't think its a vac leak) but as soon as a give it a bit of gas it boggs. If how ever i give it fair amount of throttle, i.e. accelerating. it runs fine. So i guess the question is.... If it idles fine, runs fine under acceleration but boggs down when i try to "drive it normally" what could it be?

When pretty much from intermitent(sp?) problem to pretty much all the time. I thought maybe some wiring to the ecu was messed up, if i moved my harness, the middle connector) it would die. I re-did the 2D connector (afm i think it was) and that fixed the dying while jiggling problem. But it still runs just the same as befor I did that.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Fuel resistor relay checked out ok as per fsm
Voltage to pump (at shock tower connector) 8.75vdc while idleing(sp?)