Guys.

I have an 86 13B engine.

Is the thread on the bolt at the end of the Eccentric shaft ( pully end) Right hand thread or left hand thread?

I have the engine out and want to replace the end shaft seal.

Things are kind of rusty there, I heated it with a torch used a 2 foot breaker bar and have the hub held with a large pipe wrench and nothing. (pullies have been removed.)

Any insperation is most welcome.

Ark1.

 

Instead of using a long bar....try using an air impact gun, saves time and effort.

 

Use some PB Blaster and more heat. I've seen a couple front pulley bolts break breakerbars. If you can't access an impact get some pipe and a couple buddies to help you. Leverage is your friend.

Oh and its right hand thread, just like normal.

 

Thanks,

I will give it a try again on the weekend.

Ark1.

 

Do a search here and you'll see lots of people and their experiences with this %^&*()_)(*&^&*()_ing bolt.

 

i bent a breaker bar , broke a ratchet , and spent about a hour on the damn bolt with a 600 lbs air gun. finally after going over a few threads i found on this forum i thought that i would try some heat. i went and got a mapp torch . sure enough after about 5 mins of heat and a 5 secs on the air gun the nut finally came out. i also had to do the same thing on another engine i have.

 

That bolt is standard right hand thread on my 87 engine, maybe it's the same on all of them. You might need to use your flywheel hold back bar to keep the motor from turning when you stand on the breaker bar getting it loose.

 

Omg I Broke My Breaker Got Hurt Hit My Fknuckles On The Floor When It Broke, Use A 1/2 Air Impact Gun And The Freaken Bolt Didn't Even Budge. I'mma Try Some Heat, If Not I'mma Take It To A Truck Flat Fix And Have Them Hit It With The 1 Inch Air Impact Gun. That Should Do It

 

my flywheel bolt was a pain like that

 

750 ft-lb impact wrench coupled with heat applied to the bolt will get it off for you.

 

Impact gun and heat. The bolt is torqued to 90 Ft-LBS with Loctite. Since the threads are fine, it really bites. Impact tools are the only way to go but even in that case I almost always find myself having to use heat.

Make sure to read this before you remove the front hub:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

 

I'm trying to get this bitch out right now. It won't budge. Can't find a way to stop the motor from turning. The motor is still in the car, tranny still connected.

Anyone have some good ideas for keeping the motor from spinning while I try to pop it? The front cover gasket is blown to hell. I'm blowing out 3 quarts of oil per 500 miles.

Don't have access to air tools.

 

Put it in gear and have e-brake on. Car shouldnt move.

 

That doesn't work. I was loading up the suspension, couldn't get any decent torque one it.

I ended up putting a jack stand dinger on my wratchet and butting it up against the frame. Blipped the starter and bam, dat bitch broke loose good too... sounded nasty though...

 

From the factory the threads are locktighted. Its the kind of locktight you need to destroy with a torch. Then impact it off.

James