2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Eccentric Bolt - CHECK YOURS TODAY!

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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 06:34 PM
  #26  
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by Wankel7
By the looks of that bolt's threads there was blue loctite on it.

James
If you are talking about this picture:


No, that is the original factory loctite that was not cleaned off, and reapplied when the bolt was removed.

There is not in the threads, just on the tips... a clear sign that locktite was not used the last time it was installed.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 08:01 PM
  #27  
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tell her to get a jar of vaseline next time, i think she is trying to stick it to you dry...

fix it yourself and drive it til it dies of natural causes.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 08:13 PM
  #28  
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From: Stinson Beach, Ca
beautiful t2, i have a spoilerless white 87 t2 also
whered you gank the 10AE badges from? junkyard 10ae?
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 08:23 PM
  #29  
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Don't believe that it can't happen on a factory engine. I bought an 87 GXL new in 87 and had the bolt spin out about 10 years ago. I didn't know any better at the time and had the local service station replace it (no procedure to check the bearings were followed). I guess I was really lucky because it was fine. It now has 127,000 miles on it and still runs like a top.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 08:26 PM
  #30  
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From: Roanoke, VA
Thanks! I've only had it since March (I was a 1st gen guy before that) and the body was a mess but the engine was (seemed) nice. I fixed up the interior and had the body completely repaired and painted. The 10th badges were on there when I bought it and I just assumed they were originals though after some reading I'm not so sure anymore. The builder plate says it's an 86, the title says 87, and the 10th badges indicate 88 so who knows...

After contemplating on it all day I think I'm going to have it towed home tomorrow and work on it for the next couple of weeks trying to fix it myself. I did ALL the work on my old 1st gens, so I'm confident that with the resources here I'll be able to do it. However, I'm still taking offers so if you'd like a beautiful TII give me a shout. ;)

Thanks everyone who's helped so far!
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 08:27 PM
  #31  
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From: St Joe MO
For the safety of the rotary community here on the forum, would you care to post who this female rotary expert is and how you found her? You may help save someone else from getting bent over.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 09:25 PM
  #32  
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From: Roanoke, VA
Well, I'm not going to post names... but I found her on *this* forum. Just do a search for "Roanoke mechanic" in all forums and it'll be the 3rd or 4th down.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 09:37 PM
  #33  
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From: n
Rebuilt Engine - $3,350.00
Gaskets - $115.00
Turbo (she was trying to upsell me by telling me it will need replacing) - $3,100.00
Misc Parts/Hoses - $450.00
Shipping for all that - $500.00
25 hrs of labor - $1,160.00

Total: $8,675.00
WOW!
I'll do for the price of the "Rebuild Engine" and charge you NOTHING for the "labor"! :O


-Ted
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 12:23 AM
  #34  
Windsor, Ont
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From: Windsor, Ont
Originally Posted by jhammons01
You can't 'just put it back in' There is a huge procedure for making sure the bearings aren't being crushed. Search as this was covered about three weeks ago. Look a Mazdatrix website as well.
well, the bolt was in untill we were cranking the engine over without the fuses so it wouldent fire up to try and see where the leak was coming from, then it fell out and we kept the clutch pedal down and did not releace it, even took turns switching spots because we were there for a while..
obviously it works fine, the engine has had a few hundred km probably put on it since.

but yah, loctite has been added to the bolt
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 11:42 AM
  #35  
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From: Irvine Ca.
I'll post it!! Here is the quote from the thread

"General Imports in Roanoke. 540-772-9486 The Mechanics name is Micah and is female. She has been working on RX7's for over 20 years."

think a call would be in order??
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 11:48 AM
  #36  
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From: Kirkland, WA
Rebuilt Engine - $3,350.00
Gaskets - $115.00
Turbo (she was trying to upsell me by telling me it will need replacing) - $3,100.00
Misc Parts/Hoses - $450.00
Shipping for all that - $500.00
25 hrs of labor - $1,160.00

Total: $8,675.00

Wow! I have no idea where some of those prices are coming from, seriously.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 11:51 AM
  #37  
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From: Irvine Ca.
^^ I know!! For $8967 I'll rebuild the motor and 'drive' it back east and put it in. (well maybe)
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 10:00 PM
  #38  
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From: Roanoke, VA
Well 6 hours later the housing came off. The bearings were fine... Having seen them in person I understand how it's possible to have a problem with the bearings/spacer, but I would call it very unlikely. Now, if I can only get everything back on without breaking something...
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 10:17 PM
  #39  
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lucky, it has happened before where the bearings have dropped and destroyed motors so better safe than sorry.

as for the estimate, it is high but i have seen similar. Ricks rotary in the bay area quotes are similar, i crap myself when i hear what people pay for rebuilt engines but he is very knowledgable whereas this person seems the opposite...
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 11:13 PM
  #40  
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From: Indiana
Originally Posted by jhammons01
I'll post it!! Here is the quote from the thread

"General Imports in Roanoke. 540-772-9486 The Mechanics name is Micah and is female. She has been working on RX7's for over 20 years."

think a call would be in order??
Who knows man....maybe she is a very good wrench that knows what she is doing...

However, she won't charge a rotary community friendly rate for her work...

James
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 06:08 AM
  #41  
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Originally Posted by webmonk
Well 6 hours later the housing came off. The bearings were fine... Having seen them in person I understand how it's possible to have a problem with the bearings/spacer, but I would call it very unlikely. Now, if I can only get everything back on without breaking something...
Next time just measure and then reinstall the bolt.
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 09:38 AM
  #42  
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From: Roanoke, VA
Did the measuring thing with no conclusive results so I opted to take it apart to be safe rather than have it in the back of my mind that the engine may not last another week. All in all, I'm partly happy I had to take it all apart. I've learned a lot more about how this thing operates.

Now I just have to find those gaskets...
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 10:50 AM
  #43  
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From: Central Florida
if the bearing dropped it should be changed anyways so bolting it back together and checking end play it is fairly obvious if there is a problem or not. the end play will either be in spec or the engine won't turn over at all by hand.
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