2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 08-16-06, 08:04 AM
  #26  
Taste great, more filling

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Looks like I missed the message I sent back with the pictures of the seals, I'll post that when I get home tonight. Here was their reply.

Originally Posted by tuningsessions
What year engine is that 13B engine in the picture ? It does'nt seem your engine is resurfaced either. Thank you for the picture and for your cooperation. We will get back to you soon in relation to this matter.

Steve A. :web sales
and my reply

Originally Posted by Richter12x2
I'm not 100% sure of the year of the engine in either case, the car is an 87, but I bought it two years ago, and one of the lift points was loose, which leads me to think it had been swapped before. I didn't have the engine resurfaced because I was trying to rebuild it as cheaply as possible, and it ran strong until I lost a coolant seal before, and even then wasn't overheated. I replaced the bad irons with irons from another engine, but I didn't have the money to have it cold tanked and hot tanked and lapped and everything. I did scrape the gasket channels as it instructed in the Bruce Turrentine rebuild video, and have been following those instructions, except where your instructions said to use RTV instead of Hylomar (which is a non-hardening gasket, apparently) My goal was just to have it last another 30,000 miles or so because the eventual plan is to pick up a J-spec TII engine and drivetrain and convert it up to turbo. The rotor housings and rotors are from the original engine, and the irons are from the donor engine, both are 6 port engines, but that's all I know about either of them. I appreciate your attention!
It does look like they're at least looking into what caused the failure. I'm hoping that they're actually trying to develop a viable solution, but it's a little late for me.
Old 08-16-06, 08:44 AM
  #27  
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Does it matter what year the engine is?

P.S. Banzai, any info on the tests?

Last edited by My5ABaby; 08-16-06 at 09:06 AM.
Old 08-16-06, 09:32 AM
  #28  
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Not according to anything I've ever heard. Unless he's trying to think it's a 12A or something. To my mind it doesn't matter that the engine is resurfaced, because the gaskets don't stick to that part, they go in the grooves, or I'm doing something WAY wrong
Old 08-16-06, 02:51 PM
  #29  
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sounds like he is just trying to find a fault with your engine to try and get out of it, i doubt he will refund you your money but probably just send you another set of seals.
Old 08-16-06, 02:59 PM
  #30  
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I've kinda resigned myself to that outcome already. But if he does, I'll give him bad feedback and put a link to this thread in the Reason blank

Like I told him before, right now I don't have enough info to go on. He might be genuinely trying to make a good product for the RX7, and had a setback. If he doesn't accept my help and refund my money then I have to assume he's just out to rip everyone off, right?

Last edited by Richter12x2; 08-16-06 at 03:01 PM.
Old 08-16-06, 03:14 PM
  #31  
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what type of RTV did you use?

the red exhaust temp RTV? that stuff is relatively corrosive so i wonder if that is what happened and it had a reaction. the ultra black RTV is relatively harmless though so if you use the ultra black then i'm just not sure. do you still have those pics? i looked at his feedback and no one seemed dissatisfied so far but then again most people leave feedback prior to testing or building an engine so who knows.
Old 08-16-06, 03:15 PM
  #32  
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Old 08-16-06, 03:22 PM
  #33  
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I actually used the "Import gray" RTV that's supposed to be safe for sensors and stuff, so I would think it'd even be less corrosive than most. I've got the pictures on my home computer so I'll attach them when I get home this afternoon. T minus 2 hours.

Agreed, most people leave feedback upon receipt of the item in good condition. Plus, I wouldn't have known the extent of the damage if I hadn't pinched that one. And who knows, maybe it would have held up fine if I hadn't pinched the seal and had to go back in there. Then again, maybe it would have lasted about 5,000 miles. Maybe I'll make my own seals out of low note piano wire, tell people to use RTV around it and sell it on e-bay? He's also only got 40 feedback last I checked, and with like 5 active auctions when I looked, that means he's probably only been in business for a month or two. There could be 40 happy customers out there, but there could also be 40 people out there thinking "Maybe that little bit of white smoke is just assembly lube burning off and it will go away after I get a few more miles on it"
Old 08-16-06, 03:43 PM
  #34  
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Hey

hey man sorry to say but you got taken i wouldn't use anything other then what mazda sells
Old 08-16-06, 05:03 PM
  #35  
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Here are the pictures of the seals and the e-mail that accompanied it. This goes before the last two e-mails.

Originally Posted by Richter12x2
Here are some pictures of the seal, even though I was trying to remove it in one piece. Even after it broke the first time, it would have been easier to take the rest of it off if they had stayed together. If you need it we can send the video later of me seperating the center iron and the seal coming up in pieces, but I'll have to borrow a firewire cable from work to transfer the video from the camera. I reviewed your auction for refund information, and it only speaks to returning the seals within 7 days if they are delivered in non-working condition and a new set would be sent. I didn't find anything that specifically said there would be no refunds for defective seals. I hope that you reconsider refunding my money, less shipping, because I've already ordered a new set of seals from Mazda so I can't use another set. I am willing to give you the benefit of the doubt that all of your seals don't do this so at this point I would still give you good feedback.
Another speculation is that the ammonia in the RTV caused the silicone in your seals to dissolve, in which case you could just change your instructions to install with something other than RTV, like Vaseline. Mazda recommends Hylomar, which I'm not sure if it's ammonia-based or not.

Thank you for your time
Attached Thumbnails Ebay Silicone Coolant Seals-dcp_0150.jpg   Ebay Silicone Coolant Seals-dcp_0149.jpg  
Old 08-16-06, 08:50 PM
  #36  
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It looks like the RTV is the culprit. I used a different type of gasket maker on the first seal in the engine that the guy from O'Reilly gave me when I asked for Hylomar, and even though I'm pretty sure he doesn't know what Hylomar is, this seal almost came out in 2 pieces, which means it had less of whatever it was in it than the other stuff did.

Wow, that was vague. Anyway, if the other people used Hylomar like Mazda says, then maybe they'll be alright. If they used RTV like the seal manufacturer said, then God be with them.
Old 08-17-06, 12:53 AM
  #37  
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eh, who knows, like i said i never plan on reusing seals once theyre installed so unless they are installed properly and tested that way then we will never really know how well they hold up.
Old 08-17-06, 02:53 AM
  #38  
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is this your first engine?
maybe you just fucked it up....
Old 08-17-06, 06:40 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
my guess is something in the RTV like ammonia (guessing) degraded the silicone.
No, it is not ammonia!
If I recall correctly, it's acetic acid.
This **** is not supposed to be in "oxygen sensor safe" automotive RTV, period.


-Ted
Old 08-17-06, 06:42 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Karack
i doubt any seal is much more superior than the OEM seals, they hold up on vehicles with up to 200k miles and the only reason they mainly fail is due to cracked irons which is due to other issues with the cooling system. in short i have never seen a coolant seal fail without a damn good reason.
I do.
McMaster-Carr teflon-encapsulated silicone seals R0X Ur NaDs.
Most people don't know how to install them correctly.
When they are installed right, they will blow the stock seals out of the water.
CHEAPER.
Reusable.
More durable.

BTW, I looked at the pics - it looks like the RTV reacted with the seals.
You really need to get your money back from that eBay crap!


-Ted
Old 08-17-06, 02:39 PM
  #41  
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well if you check deeper i did mention those seals and i do run them in my engine and i have reused them before, i do prefer them but wish i could find where to just purchase the seals by themself without the gasket kits.

they do take longer to reassemble the engine however since you need to let the seals conform before reassembly.
Old 08-17-06, 05:12 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by slpin
is this your first engine?
maybe you just fucked it up....

I'll admit, I fucked it up by having that one seal get pinched in the side, but like ReTed just said again, it looks like the seals reacted to the RTV, and the instructions specifically said to use RTV for assembly. In fact, the only way to tell the RTV that came off the engine from the seals that came off the engine is that seals are black with gray on it, and the RTV is gray with black on it.

What could I have done during assembly that would cause the seals to dissolve after being assembled for less than 3 hours? So to you, I say
Old 10-06-06, 01:47 PM
  #43  
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Just a quick update for those who are interested. It's been over 3 months and still no refund. I posted negative feedback 2 days ago and already had 2 people ask me what happened, so hopefully I can save someone else the trouble I went through. I really can't see these being any more useful than just filling the ring groove with RTV.
Old 10-06-06, 02:50 PM
  #44  
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serves him right to lose business cuz he left you hanging. that's just not how you treat customers...
Old 10-06-06, 02:52 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by RETed
No, it is not ammonia!
If I recall correctly, it's acetic acid.
This **** is not supposed to be in "oxygen sensor safe" automotive RTV, period.


-Ted
...just following my nose it seems like all the grey rtv's smell like it.
Old 10-06-06, 03:01 PM
  #46  
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It's not even that so much. Like I said earlier, I was giving him the benefit of the doubt as in maybe he's honestly trying to make a viable solution for seals, and just failed miserably. But after 3 months of being jerked around, it's pretty obvious that he's just out to make a quick buck.

The last e-mail I sent him was like 2 weeks ago, and I said "Are you waiting for me to give you some information or something, because I still haven't received a refund or anything?"
And two days later he writes back, promises the refund again, and then says "Can you send the defective parts back?" I wrote him back and said "After a month of them sitting on my countertop, my wife finally threw them away."
Old 10-06-06, 03:03 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
...just following my nose it seems like all the grey rtv's smell like it.
Yeah, I know what you mean, after a long day of working on the car I like to go huff RTV fumes too. Although RTVs smell more like vinegar to me. :P Ammonia smells more like litter box.
Old 10-07-06, 02:44 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Richter12x2
Yeah, I know what you mean, after a long day of working on the car I like to go huff RTV fumes too. Although RTVs smell more like vinegar to me. :P Ammonia smells more like litter box.
Vinegar is right.
Acetic acid is the main component is most vinegars.


-Ted
Old 10-09-06, 08:20 AM
  #49  
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Woohoo! FTW!!! Now I can put salt and red RTV on my french fries again! Tastes good and plugs you up!
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