I want to put together a FMIC on my t2. I know there are some ppl that bought those ebay intercooler and are happy with them. What I'm wondering how they put the piping together or did they buy pipes from ebay like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...Q5fAccessories
Or does anyone knows where I can get the right piping please let me know. Thanks

 

I bought a piping kit much like that. It worked. I cut and welded the piping together where ever I could so I was only using couplers where they needed to be as opposed to people who don't spend the time or money to weld them together. If you are going to weld them up you need to do ALOT of sanding/cleaning not only to the outside of the material, byt to the inside as well. The aluminum is really cheap, low grade but it can be done.

For the cost of a kit like that as opposed to buying the pieces from someplace like Burns Stainless though is ridiculous. One 2.5" bend from Burns is ~ $55

Verocious Motorsports has some good selections and they are about 1/2 the price of Burns.

Basically you get what you pay for. You're buying cheap chinese aluminum

 

unless you are buying a complete kit you will need to use a something like that to make your own piping. its not too difficult, just a lot of measuring and cutting. ATP turbo also has mandrel bend sections but they are more expensive.

 

i got a similar kit from ebay and it gets the job done. only prob i had with mine is that the couplers say "JDM" on them.

 

too funny.

 

That kit looks alright, but I would look for another. I bought a pipe kit off ebay a few months ago from a company called CXRacing. All in all it was 100 bucks shipped and way better than the piping kit a friend had paid more for a month earlier.

The thing with the kit I got is it came with all t-bolt clamps, the pipes actually have lips, and the couplers are ok considering they are from ebay. My only discrepancy was I ordered the kit in black (I know I just felt like it might save me from painting) and one pipe was nice and the rest were painted really half-assed. I should have just purchased the regular ones because I'll still have to clean these before welding and then repaint. lol

But 87-t66 is right, you get what you pay for, and there is a lot of cutting and measuring to be done.

 

i bought one of those cheap *** greddy knock off kits made for the rx7. it works fine but if you dont have a very low heat tig welder youre screwed because anything else will just burn right through

 

Thanks for the help guys

 

make sure those cheap ones have some beads.. they may pop off

 

your better off buying the real greddy kit or get a shop to make and weld the piping for you. that ebay piping is junk you will regret buying it..

 

I said you get what you pay for

Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmm, NO I think I was using ~60-70A to weld mine. I also had to turn the "balance" to Zero because of the quality of the AL. Less balance = more cleaning = more heat for proper penetration.

I don't think I'd call it junk. If it was junk than I would've scrapped my piping and started over from stratch knowing exactely what I needed. If you can weld it yourself than it is definately cost effective when looking at buying a real greedy kit, or paying someone to build your pipes for you. It's a cheap alternative and yes the AL is of cheaper quality. Are your IAT's going to be different using this kit as opposed to the greedys? If you weld beads on the end are the couplers going to pop off more frequently? Probably no to all of those

 

My bad. Here is the kit I bought, like I said t-bolts and beads on most of the pipes.

Ebay

 

^^^A few of mine didnt have beads either, and i didnt have a problem. You should be fine with that kit and those t bolts.

john ny

 

my intercooler setup was an ebay piping kit welded together. I have not had a problem from them and they shine up real nice.

 

Oh I'm not worried about it, most of the pipes will end up welded by a friend of mine who is good with AL. It was more of a reference for the OP.

 

i have the cxracing kit the only problem i had was they crack if you tighten them to hard

 

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I see 3 couplers that can be eliminated

I see two couplers that SHOULD be eliminated

 

Listen to NotTTT, he knows what he's talking about.

 

to bad there not your cars or you could eliminate all these problems you see....

 

Uh huh

True. I don't like using couplers unless I have to. Places where I would use couplers are where hump couplers should be used because of movement. I don't like using couplers for bends. They have more of a tendency to pop off, or outright break becuase there is more pressure on the coupler itself.

Each coupler also adds the potential for two more leaks. Something else I try to avoid.

 

I fully agree with TTT's comment on my intercooler piping. Two to three of the couplers in my setup could be eliminated. However, the OP is asking about eBay piping which typically is not going to fit so amazing since it's a universal kit.

I think I did fairly well for being handed a huncha pipes, a sawzall, a deburr tool, and some couplers. I'll get some nice piping welded up in those shapes when it becomes a priority to my project. That kit comes with t-bolt clamps and reinforced couplers. It's eBay quality, but it's better than MOST other eBay kits.

 

Here is an ebay kit, hey notTTT how many couplers do you see that I need to remove? Soon my friend however it is holding fine so far at 20psi but I agree they do need to be removed. I did however put a small bead weld all the way around each pipe. Oh hey notTTT I found out Kilo just likes to run very very conservative... If this is the case with mine I will just take some fuel out of the car and gain 50 more hp

 

I see one, maybe two that can come out No coupler bends though and beads do help. The one thing that I hate about e-bizzle piping kits is when people buy the kits and make it fit without any work. That's when it really looks like ***.

BTW - Not me asked the very same question http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=53494


As far as kilo and your tune is concerned........
when it ran leaner than 9.5:1 she stumbled, coughed and farted, right? So leaning it out would bring you back to the rotary *****. I think the first thing that you need to do is make sure your car is timed properly. If your timing is way advanced (as I think it is) than setting the timing properly will retard the actual ignition. This will then of course make your car run like ****, which is how it should be running @ 9.5:1. Then you can take some fuel out.

First thing I would do is check and reset the timing, you should be retarding the whole thing. Next, compare your ignition maps with some others that are very similar to your setup and see if there are any glaring differences. Then you should be able to take some fuel out when the ignition is sorted.

That's what I would do anyway.