87 TII Im need to change the clutch but also now have a few other issues, leaking oil pan, excessive oil in the exhaust, leaking power steering lines. Is it easier to just pull the whole drivetrain out, engine and tranny and work on it in the open than to fight with it in the car? Have most of the front end pulled apart already, intake, rad, exhaust piping intercooler. I have done a clutch on an na once before with the engine still in, but its a pita without a vehicle hoist. I have access to a engine lift and have my shop to work in.

Best option, opinions from guys that have pulled the engine numerous times?

I believe my turbo is the cause of the excessive oiling, but wont be sure till it comes off and can see the manifold. No oil in the intake. Or would my oil seals be shot in the engine? Ran great, perfect idle and smooth power before parking it for the winter.

 

Pulling an engine from a complete cat is maybe 2 hours of work. Sounds like you are close to the block only so probably 30 mins to get the engine and trans on the ground

 

Is the harness much of a pita to get out, or once the alternator is removed its clear sailing? Uim and tb get in the way staying on the engune?

Also planning to delete egr and acv etc.

 

If you ever tried to get at the front bolts of the oil pan while under the car you would Know the answer..(say: F*** that..!)
You say you have to fix stuff on the engine,under the engine,on the side of the engine,on the back of the engine(clutch) and ON the car..so just pull the whole darn thing.

 

That's a pretty optimistic estimate. Maybe in a shop with a hoist and quite a bit of experience...even so. And I'm sure you mean pulling with the harness unplugged from the ECU and fished through the firewall. Nothing wrong with that, though.

 

oh yea, take the harness out with the engine. absolutley. i left the harness in the bay when i did mine and it was a lot more work. when you reinstall, leave the mounts out, mate the trans to the engine, button up, then slip the mounts in. the splines on the input shaft are a very close fit with the disc. it makes mating the engine to trans a bit difficult. they need to be angled perfect. having an extra pair of hands and eyes would be beneficial for that part.

 

oil pan reseal + clutch = pull engine. unless you wanted to do the two jobs independently.

 

lol 2hrs? it'll take you a while to pull it. disconnect the main harness from the ecu and pull it thru the firewall, remove the airbox and intake tubing, take out the clutch fan and shroud, disconnect the radiator and heater core hoses, ps lines, ac lines, booster vac line, unplug any sensors not on the engine. remove anthing else connected to the engine, wires, battery wire etc. disconnect the oil cooler lines or unbolt the cooler and pull with motor. unbolt the motor and trans mounts while supporting trans. im pretty sure im forgetting some stuff too. take your time not to damage anything.

 

forgot there is a write-up.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

 

Alright, guess Ill be starting my removal process. Bit of reading to to to make sure I have my t's crossed.

 

any time i have to do a clutch i always pull both engine and trans except for divorced transfer case 4wd setups.

its so much easier to get every thing aligned and mated properly without screwing up the input shaft. worst thing is getting it ALL back together, firing it up and realizing you have a problem.

also the other work you cited is enough to make me want to pull the whole thing.

 

When I had my TII I must have pulled that motor out 4 times. It gets easier, and the advantage is that you can change a lot of things when the motor is out. Pull it.