e-shaft pinion bolt question
Well me and my friend were working on my engine. We couldn't figure out how to get the e-shaft pully on. So he made a call and the guy said take off the e-shaft pinion bolt ( the nut on the front of the engine) well we took it off. My tech friend, who wasn't answering his phone at the time called me back and said i shouldn't of done that and now i need to time the e-shaft again. So what is it I exactly need to do? Is there a video that can show me? I'm more of a see you do it then read about it kinda guy. And how do i get the pully on? I'm soo mad i've run into soo many issues i just want this done =(. Also is there any 1 in the area on here that could give me a hand? Thanks
The pulley only goes on one way. The bolt holes are not evenly spaced. Put the pully on and rotate it until the 4 holes all line up.
Now the bad news. When you remove the front eshaft bolt you need to keep the clutch in or the torrington bearing can drop. I'm not really sure on the best advice to give you at this point but if the bearing has dropped then it will lead to a rebuild in short order.
Now the bad news. When you remove the front eshaft bolt you need to keep the clutch in or the torrington bearing can drop. I'm not really sure on the best advice to give you at this point but if the bearing has dropped then it will lead to a rebuild in short order.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm
Well me and my friend were working on my engine. We couldn't figure out how to get the e-shaft pully on. So he made a call and the guy said take off the e-shaft pinion bolt ( the nut on the front of the engine) well we took it off. My tech friend, who wasn't answering his phone at the time called me back and said i shouldn't of done that and now i need to time the e-shaft again. So what is it I exactly need to do? Is there a video that can show me? I'm more of a see you do it then read about it kinda guy. And how do i get the pully on? I'm soo mad i've run into soo many issues i just want this done =(. Also is there any 1 in the area on here that could give me a hand? Thanks
The pulley only goes on one way. The bolt holes are not evenly spaced. Put the pully on and rotate it until the 4 holes all line up.
Now the bad news. When you remove the front eshaft bolt you need to keep the clutch in or the torrington bearing can drop. I'm not really sure on the best advice to give you at this point but if the bearing has dropped then it will lead to a rebuild in short order.
Now the bad news. When you remove the front eshaft bolt you need to keep the clutch in or the torrington bearing can drop. I'm not really sure on the best advice to give you at this point but if the bearing has dropped then it will lead to a rebuild in short order.
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
The bearing may or may not have dropped. Dropping a bearing isn't as common as most think, but it can and does happen. There is no easy way to tell with the engine in it's current state. You either have to pull the front cover (sucks) or assemble and hope for the best. If you assemble and notice that the front pulley doesn't line up with the water pump pulley, the bearing has dropped. You can also check eccentric shaft end play as per the FSM/Haynes.
Your "tech friend" who suggested you need to "time" the eccentric shaft should be ignored in the future. He is spouting nonsense.
Your "tech friend" who suggested you need to "time" the eccentric shaft should be ignored in the future. He is spouting nonsense.
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The bearing may or may not have dropped. Dropping a bearing isn't as common as most think, but it can and does happen. There is no easy way to tell with the engine in it's current state. You either have to pull the front cover (sucks) or assemble and hope for the best. If you assemble and notice that the front pulley doesn't line up with the water pump pulley, the bearing has dropped. You can also check eccentric shaft end play as per the FSM/Haynes.
Your "tech friend" who suggested you need to "time" the eccentric shaft should be ignored in the future. He is spouting nonsense.
Your "tech friend" who suggested you need to "time" the eccentric shaft should be ignored in the future. He is spouting nonsense.
ok I'm gonna hope for the best. We didn't twist or rotate anything but the bolt and we put the bolt back in b4 moving it. my only concern was the silicon sealant was still wet in some places. Ya idk his exact words. But i talked to my friend who built the engine and he said timing is done later on anyways while the car is on or something.
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