ok,two broken socket wrenches and a broken socket extension later my e-shaft bolt remains unmoved,anyone know how to do this? i cant keep the engine from turning.i even tried the "use the frame to hold the wrench and turn the car over"and the starter couldnt loosen it.any suggestions?

 

HHAHAHAHA.......try this man...put it in 5th gear

 

5th gear?how will that help me loosen it if the clutch is wedged in?

 

Well, if the car is in gear, and the engine isn't running, then if you try and turn the engine... Then the transmission will stop the engine from turning because the wheels won't move.

5th gear + parking brake == engine not turning

 

i tried that with first gear,and the whole friggin car moved,but i guess 5th would be more resistance from that end

 

heat the bolt with a propane torch first to break down the threadlocker, then do the "frame/starter" trick.

 

i dont have a propane torch,will an impact wrench work better than a breaker bar?

 

Yes.
Coincidentally, propane torches can be had for around $15 brand new, with a small bottle and simple brass head/valve.

 

Just curious - Have you removed the 4 pulleys & lock plate from the front shaft flange?

Also if using the driveline to hold the e-shaft, maybe use 4th gear so you don't strain the countershaft.

 

uh oh,can you explain to me what the lock plate is?i removed all the pulleys from the e-shaft, what is the lock plate?

 

um, shouldnt you have the clutch engaged before removing the bolt to prevent the bearing from falling out of alignment? im just going to use a big impact

 

yes but what is the lock plate?

 

cmon,someone in here can explain the e-shaft lock plate to me

 

The eshaft lock plate is just that. It goes on the Eshaft pully(the one with the timming mark) and what it does is lock the eshaft pully bolt in place. If you do not remove this plate, you will not be able to turn the pully bolt. Its brass colored and it is attached be four smaller bolts that are 10mm.

But as you said. You removed all the pullys so you would have had to remove this plate if you had one to begin with. I think, but not sure, that they're standard on the s5's only.

Oh and while you also put the tranny in 5th. Do youself a favor and pull up on the emergency break hefty like too, so the car won't move even if it is in gear.

btw, you should becareful putting the eshaft pullys back on. They only go on one way as their bolt pattern is distributed in such away to allow for one and only one fastening position.

My recomendation is that you get a much bigger breaker bar or extension. Usually 3 feet is barely enough. Plus, get a burly craftsman wrench so if you break it, its replaced free by sears. Sears also sells some monster lifetime breaker bars too. Because If you're using that **** from checker or autozone they'll break way easy as they're made in China. And Chinese Tools suck!

 

cool,is it ok to have the car in gear w/o the clutch engaged,just to break the bolt loose? then when the bolt is broke loose,wedge the clutch down,or does the clutch need to be engaged the whole time

 

is it ok to have the car in gear w/o the clutch engaged,just to break the bolt loose?


Yes. You breaking a bolt is nowhere near some of the force that the clutch experiences during hard driving.


then when the bolt is broke loose,wedge the clutch down,or does the clutch need to be engaged the whole time


If you're taking out the pully bolt, leave the clutch engaged so you can turn the pully bolt out without turning the motor. Also, like I said before, engage you emergency break as well, and have the tranny in gear.

Again, a note of caution. When you take out the pully bolt becareful because its sourounded by a spring and its got little parts to it that like to shoot out if you take it out too fast. Once you get it loose and threaded all the way out, slowly remove it from the e-shaft.

 

thanks man,that bolt is a bitch,i had about 3-4 feet of leverage,and pushed with everything i had after heating the bolt up,and i gave it one big heave with all my weight and the breaker bar just snapped.the good side to all of this is that i can take everything off to get to it in about 10 minutes.i could do it blindfolded now

 

breaker bar just snapped


LOL! Good o'l knuckle buster.

In my super green rookie years I got this brilliant Idea to take a pipe wrench to the flywheel nut because I couldn't find a cheap 2 1/8 socket. (This would have been about 5 years ago, much learned since then) Hooked up about a three and half foot extension to it.
Snapped that pipe wrench like a little bitch, and put a nice gouge in the nut.

 

Please read the Mazdatrix FAQ about removing this bolt to prevent serious engine damage.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

 

1) If the engine is in the car (this DOES NOT APPLY for 93-95's) do something to wedge the clutch pedal down -- meaning a 2x4 or something like it, holding the pedal down and wedged against steering wheel or front of the seat.


I stand corrected SuperE. I guess you should wedge the clutch down.

That's awesome info. I wish they would have explained why wedging the clutch pedal down averts damage to the torrington washer barrings? I've never done this any of the times that I've removed the pully bolt, and never had a problem, but I certainly will not negate this proceedure now.

Thanks Aaron.

 

cool thanks for all the help guys,ill get one of those craftsman strap things,to hold the pulley in place while the clutch is pinned down