Yo,


Y'all know I'm here to please. *grin*

Lemme see:

4500 to 6500 is rising pretty linear for the power, except for the VDI spike at 6400.

4500 to 6500 the torque drops off, dipping down until the VDI bumps it back up.

At 4500 I've got 100HP, and 115lb torque.

I've never messed with the timing, or cleaned the injectors, or messed with the TPS. Pretty much bone stock. Changed the belts, O2 sensor, maintence stuff, but no really tuning stuff. Just bolt on and go!

KS
1989 GTUs "I need some NA guru to come over...."

 

dam that's low!! I think you should repost your april 1st post again now that it's over

 

How long have you own the car? Did it sit for a long time? Your curve is suppose to be smooth, no spikes

 

Yep, I agree - you're running too damn lean in the middle.&nbsp I think best power AFR is around 12.5...definitely under 13.0.



-Ted

 

12.5 on an NA?

 

So far from what i've seen, my 10-1 has everyone beat. Within a month to a month and a half, i plan to have my n/a back on the dyno. Hopefully, i can break the into the 180rwhp area. CJ

 

Yep, turbos run a bit "safer" from 11.5 to 12.0...


-Ted

 

just cheked the vdi and the 6 port actuators and the pressure required to open, the vdi works fine a bit slow but works, the 6port is copletely stuck open and doesnt move, but i dont get it why do i ge the jump at the 6300 rpm, is it because maybe my vdi is slow to open, i now now why my tq is soo much lower at teh low end then tmak26b , thats because of the vdi stuck open, and this will solve a lot of confusion that i vad with driving the car and all that , but i am still wonderign why i get that jump at 6300 instead of teh smooth transition from 5300 rpm
here is the comparecent of mine and tmak26b dyno charts, the red is is me the blue is tmak26b
anyway here it is

u might have to copy and paste this link for it to work
http://www.angelfire.com/ct3/kahren1.../dyno_comp.JPG

 

i think your guys' math was wrong up there @ 180 flywheel HP with a 20% loss thats 144 hp, so probably 181hp with 20% loss, with a 15% loss thats only 170 flywheel hp

 

Dunno about ya'll but when I wired my 5th and 6th ports open, I ran .2 secs slower in my quarter mile

 

Well of course. If you ports are working, leave em that way!!
You loast a bit of low end, so you probably bogged a bit on the launch...
The only reason people sould wire them open is if they are not functioning. If that's the case, is better off removing them completely.

I say about 13:1 is the best A/F ratio for N/A...

 

thats what i thought too.

 

Right on bambam, wire 6 port open is not a mod :P

 

Yo,


My six ports weren't working. What a huge difference when I wired them open. It was like getting on the big cam in a VTEC motor. *grin*

So thanks for all the input, so what should I do to my car to make more power?

I was told to get a S-AFC to richen up the mid range. Any other ideas?

I'm probably going to stick with the downpipe, the extra couple of HP from a header isn't worth the smog and noise hassle to me.

Any simple things I can do, other than Pineapple racing sleeves, RC cleaning the injectors, TB mod, timing, etc? Oh wait, that's pretty much it...*grin*

KS
1989 GTUs "Insert witty saying here."

 

The four magical letters.... S-AFC... (and one magical hyphen of course)

Porting? Engine and manifold.

Ohhh yaa...

I would say bump the timing up by about 5 degrees (1cm of crank angle on the pulley at MOST)

BUT you are running kindof len in the midrange already... It should be OK, since detonation is much more likely to occur at higher RPMS than midrange...
I am running close to that lean, and hyped up timing, but my 3mm seals give me a little bit of a safetly cushion.

 

I'd go with a cat back exhuast, and get a high flow cat.
Then get a lightened flywheel, say 15 to 17 lbs.

and a type R sticker, they will add 1000+ hp to your car instantly!

=)

 

I would check your VDI for FULL operation before you worry about the fuel mixture. You are not even getting the full potential out of your engine right now. Even with mods, you will still miss that 10 hp

 

i am thinking if i should get the pineapple 6 port valves, they seem like they will add a couple hp considerign i will b etaking all this crap appart to clean it anyway....any suggestions

 

make it yourself at work :P

 

I strongly disagree with the guy above me about making it at work.

Here someone(Rob in this case.) takes the time and $$$ to make an awesome part for the very narrow market of the n/a crowd, and you want to bypass the person who did this? I know that Rob puts 99% of the money back into the business, and R&D.....so why would'nt you want spend a couple extra bucks so we can get some other neat bolts-ons for the n/a crowd. I realy doubt he will be continuing to put time and effort into the 6 port motors if enough people do this.

Its like biting the hand that feeds the n/a hp freaks.

Ok...i'll get down off of the soap box now.

CJ

 

Yo,


So the S-AFC is all that, huh? Hmm, I might look into it.

CJ, I hear you about trying to bypass FC suppliers. I remember when Node pasted way back when of making knockoff 20B mounts that K2RD was doing. I jumped on him for that. You need to support the people that support our old cars. Yep, they're /old/ people, and if you **** off all the suppliers for parts, our beloved FC's are gonna die young.

KS
1989 GTUs "Worth every penny."

 

I'm curious about the real gains from RB headers/presilencer....

 

Max, buy me a set, pay for the dyno and installation. I will be the guniea pig

 

Finally after all this time Ive figured it out! The s in GTUs stands for "sissified"!!

j/k

 

oh no, you just didnt say that lol just wait till Rarest gets back online lololol