Dummy Lights always on, no chime when door open, car runs like crap
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Dummy Lights always on, no chime when door open, car runs like crap
Hi, rebuilt the whole car (signature) in the last 1,5 years, went for a ride today and the wideband sensor died on me.
Up to 4k rpm the car runs like it has about 50hp afterwards it opens up, might be the fuel map since I didnt modify that one.
My main worry are the dummy lights tho, they are all lit up, no idea why.
All the sensors are plugged in correctly and show correct readings.
Has anyone encountered the same problem? Might it be a problem with the rtek (2.1)?
Thanks in advance
Alex
Up to 4k rpm the car runs like it has about 50hp afterwards it opens up, might be the fuel map since I didnt modify that one.
My main worry are the dummy lights tho, they are all lit up, no idea why.
All the sensors are plugged in correctly and show correct readings.
Has anyone encountered the same problem? Might it be a problem with the rtek (2.1)?
Thanks in advance
Alex
#4
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The alternator places a ground on the White/Black wire w/key to on (engine off) which runs to the alternator warning light switch which then causes the dummy lights to come on. W/the car started the ground signal dissipates and the dummy lights turn off. Thus if the dummy lights are on w/the car running then there is a ground on the W/B wire. It could be coming from the alternator or it could be the wire is accidentally grounded out. You could unplug the 2 wire plug from the alternator and test the W/B wire. You set the multimeter to continuity and you place one meter lead to the W/B wire and the other meter lead to the battery's negative terminal (ground) and if the meter rings out then that indicates the wire is accidentally grounded and that is likely your problem. This test is done w/no key.
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Due to work overload and other private stuff I still havent had time to get to the issue.
That is why yesterady I tried to get the car to my friends workshop, when a shitload of more problems arose.
The car wont idle and runs like total crap below 3500rpm (got like 30 horsepower and can barely move itself) and stutters.
Once it got above 3500 it started pulling hard. Well after 1,5km I had to come to a stop and it didnt want to drive itself anymore. After the next start while moving under its own power the dummy lights and the instrument cluster just died.
I fear that not only the alternator is at fault here :/
Not sure if I should keep investing in my dream car after wrenching 1,5 years with a car running worse then when I got it. Considering saving up to fly in some super technician/guru to Italy to fix it.
ATM the only joy I get from the car is reading other memebers post and living my dream through them.
That is why yesterady I tried to get the car to my friends workshop, when a shitload of more problems arose.
The car wont idle and runs like total crap below 3500rpm (got like 30 horsepower and can barely move itself) and stutters.
Once it got above 3500 it started pulling hard. Well after 1,5km I had to come to a stop and it didnt want to drive itself anymore. After the next start while moving under its own power the dummy lights and the instrument cluster just died.
I fear that not only the alternator is at fault here :/
Not sure if I should keep investing in my dream car after wrenching 1,5 years with a car running worse then when I got it. Considering saving up to fly in some super technician/guru to Italy to fix it.
ATM the only joy I get from the car is reading other memebers post and living my dream through them.
#6
MECP Certified Installer
If indeed the alternator is bad, the car has been running off the battery.
The car will run like absolute poop once the battery voltage gets low enough.
The car will run like absolute poop once the battery voltage gets low enough.
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