TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Hi all. I just got what.. I think is some MMR DTSS elims from the forums, but the person didn't include the instructions. I know there are walkthroughs on the forums, but if someone could scan either mmrs, or anyones instructions and post it here, that would be a great help. Just want to see what the stock install instructions look like.

I am trying to see if I can uninstall the old and install the new by just dropping the whole rear end. Or if I still need to do all the nasty taking out the whole wheel assembly thing.


~Tweak

wow the dtss elims are larger than I thought they would be...

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Dropping the rear is totally pointless. You still have to remove the entire bearing carrier from the rear end whether its attached to the car or not.

-Remove the wheel
-Remove the brake caliper/bracket and rotor
-Undo the 3 retaining bolts for the carrier (one at the top/rear, one at the bottom/rear and one vertical going through the DTSS bushing)
-Remove the axle nut
-Remove the carrier from the axle/control arm
-Press old bushing out
-Press new bushing in w/sleeve instereted into bushing while pressing them both into the bore
-reverse and re-install with new axle nut and proper torque ratings.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

dang, I thought I could get away with doing it easy.

New axle nut eh? Is this a requirement?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Replace axle nut - Highly recommended.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

not "required" exactly however the nut is retained by bending its shoulder into a fixed slot on the axle. The nut is right now torqued properly and its shoulder is bent into the slot....in order to remove it, you'll muck the portion thats bent now. When you re-tighten it later you'll either have to slightly over or under torque it to get a new section of shoulder on the nut that can be tapped into the axle slot.

Perhaps not entirely vital, but certainly worthwhile.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

is this something I need to go to mazda for, or can I Get it at schucks and such?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Mazda

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

I found this

http://rx7cz.net/pics/toe.jpg

if anybody have other pages from the manual please post them.

JStewart

http://mazdatrix.com/faq/rrsteer.htm

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

ok cool. Was $20 next day from mazda. He REALLY recommended I don't waste my money. I can just re"notch" it on a different side no worries. I said.... ya know what ... $20 doesn't sound like it's two bad.... haha he was like what ever ....

At least I don't have to worry.

micah

That doesn't look that hard....

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

In the instructions it says that if you switch the axle nut from one side to the other, they can be reused.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

im not looking forward to doing this.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

But I think we will be severely happy we did afterwards though.

Nitrometano

I got one axel nut at pep boys and the other one in a local auto parts store for $5 each.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

awww hissss booo @ classicauto

JStewart

Its really not that hard to do. You can easily have it done in a day(if you dont break anything). In other words your screwed... ; )

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you put anti-sieze on all the bolts when you reinstall everything. I managed to snap a caliper bolt on each side, which turned the job into a real PITA.

daten

the other two bolts that hold the hub assembly on can be tricky.. there are metal sleeves the bolts go through that get caught on the hub assembly, you can stick a big flathead screwdriver in there and use it to push the sleeves if they're off center and you can't get the assembly off or back on. I've done this about 5 times and wish I figured that out the first time.

also, the big bolt that goes through the bushing can be really tight and hard to get off, just keep the impact on it

and my MMR bushings were one piece, if they had a sleeve in the middle it was already assembled, they fit perfectly and we didn't need the press to force them in

if you press hard bushing in yourself, be careful that they are the right size. If they're too big and you try to force them they can explode.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

My dtss (I think they are from MMR) already have the metal .... center price smashed into it.... ... so there is a good chance it will just slide in? Don't I want it to be pretty tight though? How wide should they be? I have them right here...

Mine is 1 5/16 inch wide on the small side, 1 23/64 on the big side... On the small side the metal ... sleeve comes out a little bit the sleeve is 13/16 inches wide.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

/\/\/\..what he said!..The 21mm toe Bolt is a real bitch!..don't try to sacrifrice the Bushing.The best way to get this Nut off is to either Use heat(torch) or to soak the upper part where it threads on with PB Blaster for like two days!..the metal sleeve on the bushing usually will stick to the Bolt due to Corrosion from 20 years of weather,so it may Break from the rubber,That is what is holding it in/on.