wondering, since we have some cooling issues, if anyone has converted to dry sump oil system, and maybe what they did to do it/ what pump they used, and where they mounted it, i would really like to do it

 

Cooling issues are rarely oil-related. Dry-sump systems are used to combat the problems caused by the high cornering G-forces experienced by racecars. On a street car is would be an unnecessary waste of a considerable amount of money.

 

exactly I have NO cooling problems. I had them before but my radiator was at fault.

Santiago

 

I really do not know specific numbers for a dry sump conversion. But it was 6k+

James

 

It's a 2995 Option on a Pineapple racing rebuild. And it would be useful if you SCCA your car, but only on a nat'l level car.

 

how does a dry sump system work? (not that i've never heard of it.. i just am unsure of its specific design..)

(me = teh n00b)

 

its basically a belt driven oil pump, that you add on, and it runs the oil on its normal course except it also circulates it to a resivior (like the oil pan) except this one is away from the engine, sometimes at the rear of the car, sometimes in the engine bay if it fits. you can have a smaller oil pan and i beleive it holds more oil as well. i didnt say anything very specific, but you get the gist

 

http://www.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm

There are two main types; gear driven and belt driven. Mazdaspeed sells both. Note that this is not a purely bolt-on device because the engine block needs modification, so this is why Pineapple lists it along with other labor costs.

Mazda gear-driven pump:
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/wcsc...l/01-9313.html

Peterson belt-driven dry sumps:
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/pumpdry.html

 

With rotaries, basically you replace the front cover as this houses the gear driven system of the dry sump pump. The oil pan is completely eliminated as the oil is pumped to an external sump tank. I have a 3/4" billet aluminum plate to replace my oil pan and help reduce any torsional flex in the engine.
Oil usuually goes in the top of the resovoir from the scavenge at the front cover, typically flows through some baffling in the resovoir and out the bottom. This will eliminate any foaming or starvation of oil to the engine since most tanks are very deep. From there it goes back to the inlet at the front cover, then back out to oil coolers etc. and then back to the rear of the engine at the stock location. Then through the engine and again and again.
My system should use about 12 quarts of oil and run around 120-140 psi.
Check out this site for a great view of the front cover. Scroll down and it will be on the lower left.
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...0001&langId=-1

 

damn you evil, looks like you beat me to it.

 

LOL, I don't think so because you posted different information. It's always better to have more info and extra cool pictures.

I just want to stress to the nubies that you can't just bolt on the dry sump equipment. Extensive modifications to the housings are required for routing of the oil tubes. This is guru-level stuff best left to the pros.

 

It also could allow you to drop the engine lower in the car because you don't need the normal oil pan anymore. So you can have a lower center of gravity by doing this.

 

Oh, and on a rotary, the oiling system does a lot of the cooling.

 

yep, oil is essential to cooling a rotary...cooling problems however always arise out of a poorly functioning coolant system and or fan.