Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

Alright guys...i just recently drove from Portland to Raleigh and am back down south (and yes I will build that kit as soon as I get myself together). Anyhow I decided to be a lil ballsy considering on my way to Oregon a few years back I drove straight from Omaha to Portland. Well this time I drove from Twin Falls, Idaho all the way to Raleigh in one shot only stopping to get gas.

Anyhow to keep a long story short either my water pump or my thermostat decided to give out about 30 miles from home right outside of Raleigh and the car overeated blowing coolant all over the place. I replaced the therrmostat, took it around the block, it got hot and i shut her off. I did the same with the water pump and before it got too hot I shut her off again. Anyhow to keep a long story short like I said she got hot about five times total. I then realised that if I pulled my head out of my *** and actually put water in the block thru where the thermostat is instead of the overflow tank the water pump might actually have something to pump.

That was all good and everything worked just fine except my head was still partially in my *** and I didnt seal off the pump well enough. So when taking the whole pump back off I broke one of my brittle plastic fuel lines. I put a rubber hose over it and clamped it and ran the other end straight to the injector. Also note that when I took the car around the block without the coolant the last time it had a bad stumble to it, and now when I drive sometimes when it is just started I will be cruising along and it will stumble usually within the first five minutes but never usually after that. I dont hear any change in RPM, just sounds like I am lacking fuel or spark, but on the same scale it did this severly when I drove it minus coolant.

Anyhow the car runs fine besides that and it has always had a flooding problem (leaky injectors) and I did a compression test not too long ago and she was fine. So I am thinking that this could be a fuel issue related either to the injectors being bad, maybe fuel filter because I have had the car for over 40k miles and have never replaced it, or something ghetto I might have done when I broke the line, but it happenned right after I heated it up a few times and that it stumbled and hesistated badly when I had no coolant that last time I took it for a test. And yes, I have changed the oil since. So any opinions gusy would help, I am sorry I have made this so long but it gets everything on the table. Thanx --

Icemark

A couple things I would be looking at,

1. the TPS setting. If you really overheated it and steam was everywhere it is possible that you got steam water in the TPS.

2. same thing with spark plug wires.

3. grounds... maybe something got knocked off or is a weakend state because of a loose of bad ground when you were refilling/fixing.

and the plastic fuel lines you mention are the thin semi clear lines??? If so, those are not fuel lines, but rather the MOP oil injection lines. Make sure if you patched that, that the line you used is oil/gas safe.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

thanx mark, I think you might have hit it with the whole TPS thing and maybe the spark issue as well because it kinds reminds me a bit of when i got my distributor wet in my MR2, seems like a misfire or lack of fuel. Also when I start the car it used to want to die on me before and I would have to start it a second time, but now it seems constant and even the other day the idle was jumping up and down, so I knew I had some sort of TPS issue. Ill check the spark and look up the ol' TPS thread. Thanx Mark....

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

oh yeah, the hoses I used were the rubber hoses from Autozone.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Damn Id help ya if you were around here still.

ilike2eatricers

Yea those arent the fuel lines. The stock fuel lines are actual fuel injection hose which goes through the metal vac rack under the UIM. If the lines are clear/brownish and are located a the front passenger side of the engine they are the omp lines. They are pretty expensive to replace for what they are ($25 each line). I would do some tests to make sure the coolant seals are still good.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

aight guys cool -- now another question, how to clear the TPS of anything that may have gotten in there and done something?

WAYNE88N/A

Pull the connector & spray it out with some contact cleaner.

I'd be looking at the top of the CAS plug too, for puddles....