Droppin my motor
#3
RE_p Rotors
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i take it you ment pull engine not drop correct..read the fsm i would try to describe it but it will take a while considering you just removed the radiater. you have a long list to still do my friend
power steering rack
unbolt tranny
take out harness
afm
all hoses
**** go and get a haynes while your at it..it will save lots of time running in on computer then back out..and if you really dont feel comfortable wait a little while seems you might be jumping into things by low post and the thread saying "i removed radiater what else to pull engine"
power steering rack
unbolt tranny
take out harness
afm
all hoses
**** go and get a haynes while your at it..it will save lots of time running in on computer then back out..and if you really dont feel comfortable wait a little while seems you might be jumping into things by low post and the thread saying "i removed radiater what else to pull engine"
#5
Rotary Freak
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Or like that ^.....
What? Power steering rack? Take out harness? AFM? What...
FSM or Haynes, or Chilton usually have you remove everything and a bunch of stuff isn't necessary to remove the motor.
Of course drain all fluids first. Remove battery, if you want, at least disconnect it.
Remove fan and shroud. Then belts. The smog pump can be set aside along w/ the power steering pump and ac condenser.
Remove the top mount ic and piping if you have one (just disconnect the piping at each end and remove as a unit, wiggling as you pull). Label and disconnect any hoses that connect to the intake system as it will be removed, but leave anything connected that you can or anything that won't be pulled w/ the engine.
remove the alternator and wires and label them.
Remove the throttle body and all vaccuum lines and throttle and cruise cables. label as you go. Be aware of the coolant line under the TB! ( you can remove the TB and the upper manifold as one piece)
You should have access to the fuel lines, remove and label.
Unbolt the exhaust from the rear of the turbo or manifold.
All the wires attached to the motor need to be labeled and removed. (ait, coolant temp, ground wires, spark plug wires, emissions junk, injectors, ect.)
Once everything is disconnected then you set the harness aside, be careful with the old wires as they may be brittle and crack or break.
Loosen the tranny bolts and the mounting bolts. That should be about it... start pulling but be careful in case you missed something that could get broke, bent, streched, pulled. Go slow, and once it frees up and you are sure nothing is attached, yank er out forward then up and out!
I may have missed something, but start labeling and disconnecting stuff, until the motor has been severed from the rex... think of it as surgery, remember it has to go back in too... Paint markers help for labeling.
Good luck!
After your familiar with your motor, this should only take a few hours to pull this thing, I think someone has done it under 1 hr tho.
What? Power steering rack? Take out harness? AFM? What...
FSM or Haynes, or Chilton usually have you remove everything and a bunch of stuff isn't necessary to remove the motor.
Of course drain all fluids first. Remove battery, if you want, at least disconnect it.
Remove fan and shroud. Then belts. The smog pump can be set aside along w/ the power steering pump and ac condenser.
Remove the top mount ic and piping if you have one (just disconnect the piping at each end and remove as a unit, wiggling as you pull). Label and disconnect any hoses that connect to the intake system as it will be removed, but leave anything connected that you can or anything that won't be pulled w/ the engine.
remove the alternator and wires and label them.
Remove the throttle body and all vaccuum lines and throttle and cruise cables. label as you go. Be aware of the coolant line under the TB! ( you can remove the TB and the upper manifold as one piece)
You should have access to the fuel lines, remove and label.
Unbolt the exhaust from the rear of the turbo or manifold.
All the wires attached to the motor need to be labeled and removed. (ait, coolant temp, ground wires, spark plug wires, emissions junk, injectors, ect.)
Once everything is disconnected then you set the harness aside, be careful with the old wires as they may be brittle and crack or break.
Loosen the tranny bolts and the mounting bolts. That should be about it... start pulling but be careful in case you missed something that could get broke, bent, streched, pulled. Go slow, and once it frees up and you are sure nothing is attached, yank er out forward then up and out!
I may have missed something, but start labeling and disconnecting stuff, until the motor has been severed from the rex... think of it as surgery, remember it has to go back in too... Paint markers help for labeling.
Good luck!
After your familiar with your motor, this should only take a few hours to pull this thing, I think someone has done it under 1 hr tho.
Last edited by Nick_d_TII; 04-14-08 at 05:55 PM. Reason: or that...
#6
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Yeah its on jacks right now. Forgot to mentionthe entire front end of the car had caught on fire so its all black now. i removed the bumper,fender ect. just the engine is the only problem. all the wires are completly burned all the way up to the firewall. I drained the oil from the engine and all hoses disconnected. this would be easier if it wasnt all burned. Ill try anf take piks .
Thanks
-Alen !
Thanks this really helps alot .
Thanks
-Alen !
Thanks this really helps alot .
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 04-15-08 at 08:42 AM. Reason: Merge two posts
#7
Will drive for parts
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I dropped my motor around this time last year and here's some tips:
buy new front and rear seals for the tranny. they're cheap and easy to replace when the motor is out. speaking of that...
drop the tranny with the motor. it's very easy to unbolt when it s out of the car and it did it by myself. it's also a bit harder to put the motor back in and then line it up with the tranny. i've seen quite a few threads regarding lining up the motor with the tranny after it s out.
start early in the day. i know that seems obvious, but you're likely to get more done when ur friends are still asleep and the lure of COD4 online is not looming over ur head.
Take your time. read the fsm and haynes manual sections regarding engine removal twice and get a good idea what u have to do and in what order.
number wires and hoses with some masking tape and if u have a digi cam take some photos so u know where stuff is supposed to go, especially if u are going to send the motor out to have it rebuilt. You'll forget a lot in the time its gone, but the tape will still have numbers on it.
replace as much as u can afford to replace (clutch, gaskets, hoses, etc...) while the motor is out and you won't regret it. I'd hate to put a sloppy oem original clutch back onto my new motor. Also, hoses and gaskets might fail while u are taking the motor out or you might use to much elbow grease and rip that nasty old driver side heater hose in half trying to get it out.
Get little sandwich bags and write "radiator nuts", "air box bolts", and etc for obvious reasons. It sucks to strip something out trying to put the wrong bolt back in.
I have a few more but u get the idea.
buy new front and rear seals for the tranny. they're cheap and easy to replace when the motor is out. speaking of that...
drop the tranny with the motor. it's very easy to unbolt when it s out of the car and it did it by myself. it's also a bit harder to put the motor back in and then line it up with the tranny. i've seen quite a few threads regarding lining up the motor with the tranny after it s out.
start early in the day. i know that seems obvious, but you're likely to get more done when ur friends are still asleep and the lure of COD4 online is not looming over ur head.
Take your time. read the fsm and haynes manual sections regarding engine removal twice and get a good idea what u have to do and in what order.
number wires and hoses with some masking tape and if u have a digi cam take some photos so u know where stuff is supposed to go, especially if u are going to send the motor out to have it rebuilt. You'll forget a lot in the time its gone, but the tape will still have numbers on it.
replace as much as u can afford to replace (clutch, gaskets, hoses, etc...) while the motor is out and you won't regret it. I'd hate to put a sloppy oem original clutch back onto my new motor. Also, hoses and gaskets might fail while u are taking the motor out or you might use to much elbow grease and rip that nasty old driver side heater hose in half trying to get it out.
Get little sandwich bags and write "radiator nuts", "air box bolts", and etc for obvious reasons. It sucks to strip something out trying to put the wrong bolt back in.
I have a few more but u get the idea.
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#8
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I dropped my motor around this time last year and here's some tips:
buy new front and rear seals for the tranny. they're cheap and easy to replace when the motor is out. speaking of that...
drop the tranny with the motor. it's very easy to unbolt when it s out of the car and it did it by myself. it's also a bit harder to put the motor back in and then line it up with the tranny. i've seen quite a few threads regarding lining up the motor with the tranny after it s out.
start early in the day. i know that seems obvious, but you're likely to get more done when ur friends are still asleep and the lure of COD4 online is not looming over ur head.
Take your time. read the fsm and haynes manual sections regarding engine removal twice and get a good idea what u have to do and in what order.
number wires and hoses with some masking tape and if u have a digi cam take some photos so u know where stuff is supposed to go, especially if u are going to send the motor out to have it rebuilt. You'll forget a lot in the time its gone, but the tape will still have numbers on it.
replace as much as u can afford to replace (clutch, gaskets, hoses, etc...) while the motor is out and you won't regret it. I'd hate to put a sloppy oem original clutch back onto my new motor. Also, hoses and gaskets might fail while u are taking the motor out or you might use to much elbow grease and rip that nasty old driver side heater hose in half trying to get it out.
Get little sandwich bags and write "radiator nuts", "air box bolts", and etc for obvious reasons. It sucks to strip something out trying to put the wrong bolt back in.
I have a few more but u get the idea.
buy new front and rear seals for the tranny. they're cheap and easy to replace when the motor is out. speaking of that...
drop the tranny with the motor. it's very easy to unbolt when it s out of the car and it did it by myself. it's also a bit harder to put the motor back in and then line it up with the tranny. i've seen quite a few threads regarding lining up the motor with the tranny after it s out.
start early in the day. i know that seems obvious, but you're likely to get more done when ur friends are still asleep and the lure of COD4 online is not looming over ur head.
Take your time. read the fsm and haynes manual sections regarding engine removal twice and get a good idea what u have to do and in what order.
number wires and hoses with some masking tape and if u have a digi cam take some photos so u know where stuff is supposed to go, especially if u are going to send the motor out to have it rebuilt. You'll forget a lot in the time its gone, but the tape will still have numbers on it.
replace as much as u can afford to replace (clutch, gaskets, hoses, etc...) while the motor is out and you won't regret it. I'd hate to put a sloppy oem original clutch back onto my new motor. Also, hoses and gaskets might fail while u are taking the motor out or you might use to much elbow grease and rip that nasty old driver side heater hose in half trying to get it out.
Get little sandwich bags and write "radiator nuts", "air box bolts", and etc for obvious reasons. It sucks to strip something out trying to put the wrong bolt back in.
I have a few more but u get the idea.
HAHAHA COD4 . lol I play halo 3.
yeah ill post up piks whenever i can.
#10
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you said the harness was toast right , go to the passenger side of your car and the main harness that goes into the engine itself--SNIP SNIP SNIP
motor mounts -2- from the underside of the car
if you already got the tranny unbolted and the exhaust off- all is left is the radiator shrouding -thats it
no need to remove raidators, batery,afm,harnesses, "power steering rack" WTF!
YOU ARE DOING GOOD BRO IF YOU ARE DOING THIS BY YOURSELF ! I DID
motor mounts -2- from the underside of the car
if you already got the tranny unbolted and the exhaust off- all is left is the radiator shrouding -thats it
no need to remove raidators, batery,afm,harnesses, "power steering rack" WTF!
YOU ARE DOING GOOD BRO IF YOU ARE DOING THIS BY YOURSELF ! I DID
#11
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you said the harness was toast right , go to the passenger side of your car and the main harness that goes into the engine itself--SNIP SNIP SNIP
motor mounts -2- from the underside of the car
if you already got the tranny unbolted and the exhaust off- all is left is the radiator shrouding -thats it
no need to remove raidators, batery,afm,harnesses, "power steering rack" WTF!
YOU ARE DOING GOOD BRO IF YOU ARE DOING THIS BY YOURSELF ! I DID
motor mounts -2- from the underside of the car
if you already got the tranny unbolted and the exhaust off- all is left is the radiator shrouding -thats it
no need to remove raidators, batery,afm,harnesses, "power steering rack" WTF!
YOU ARE DOING GOOD BRO IF YOU ARE DOING THIS BY YOURSELF ! I DID
Yup i cut the harness to the ECU today .
the RAD. was baked so i had to remove that alongside the battery .
Yeah i told a friend to help me out but what a friend he was .
So am in this alone .
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