2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Drive Shaft For N/a S/4 Vert

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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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Exclamation Drive Shaft For N/a S/4 Vert

I did not find what i was looking for.. my question is will i need any special tools to remove my driveshaft.
Please if you have done this b/4 how long did it take.
what are the steps to removing it.
will i be able to tackle this task by just using ramps....
any info is greatly appreatied
thks jason
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:44 PM
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You need I think a 10mm socket wrench, and thats it. If your keeping the same one on, mark its orientation before you take it off to keep it balanced.
Basically, remove the 4 nuts and pull it forward out of the transmission. Just make sure you drain the tranny fluid first. Check out the online FSM listed in the FAQs for a more detailed description.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:52 PM
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cool thks..
got any idea on how much a new stock one cost's
how much for a peformance one...
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TOOSHORT_88
cool thks..
got any idea on how much a new stock one cost's
how much for a peformance one...
http://driveshaftshop.com/ try there. they seem to be one of the top companies for driveshafts. good luck with the removal and installation
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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I think Mazdatrix also has them, and they pop up in the for sale section here.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:38 PM
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If the car is level, you don't have to drain the tranny. Also IIRC the bolts that hold the rear of the driveshaft to the flange on the diff are 14mm.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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oh, ok. Its been 8 months since I took it off so I'm a little fuzzy. This is gonna be real fun once I start putting it back together....
Also, its about 350 for a stock on and 260 for an aftermarket one on mazdatrix. You can get one for cheaper at a junk yard.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:51 PM
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Okay, i was just gonna back my car up on the ramps and start from there..
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 07:59 PM
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Yeah I've seen them go for 40 bucks on here used.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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Yea, I picked one up off of a guy on this forum for $50.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 08:42 PM
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Backing up on ramps, so tail is up in the air will let you not have to drain the oil. Easiest if you remove the heat shielding with the 10mm socket, but can be done without.

Slide it into the tranny, line up the flange with the 3rd member, slide in the 4 bolts from the 3rd member side being sure to jiggle so they meet flush, put on lock washer, tighten the four 14MM bolts to recommended torque.

You're done.

Last edited by HOZZMANRX7; Jul 19, 2006 at 08:44 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 11:33 PM
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it's not too difficult, just remember to leave the car in neutral and with the e-brake off. get a long screwdriver or wrench and stick it in the rear end so the driveshaft does not spin on you when you don't want it to.
don't forget to lube up the bolts with some wd-40 or similar spray to loosen the bolts so they don't brake off, wear glasses to keep rust from getting into your eyes, and some gloves.
all in all after soaking the screws you could have it off in 15 min or so.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 01:05 AM
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my machanic told me i just need new u joints, should i get just the new u joints or get a new drive shaft with new u joints ..
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 01:22 AM
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You can't simply replace the U-joints in our cars, they are made part of the driveshaft itself. There are a few ways around this, (a quick search should turn something up), but I feel that the most cost effective route is finding a good used driveshaft.
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