Drive Shaft For N/a S/4 Vert
07-19-06, 06:41 PM
#1
Drive Shaft For N/a S/4 Vert
I did not find what i was looking for.. my question is will i need any special tools to remove my driveshaft.
Please if you have done this b/4 how long did it take.
what are the steps to removing it.
will i be able to tackle this task by just using ramps....
any info is greatly appreatied
thks jason
Please if you have done this b/4 how long did it take.
what are the steps to removing it.
will i be able to tackle this task by just using ramps....
any info is greatly appreatied
thks jason
07-19-06, 06:44 PM
#2
You need I think a 10mm socket wrench, and thats it. If your keeping the same one on, mark its orientation before you take it off to keep it balanced.
Basically, remove the 4 nuts and pull it forward out of the transmission. Just make sure you drain the tranny fluid first. Check out the online FSM listed in the FAQs for a more detailed description.
Basically, remove the 4 nuts and pull it forward out of the transmission. Just make sure you drain the tranny fluid first. Check out the online FSM listed in the FAQs for a more detailed description.
07-19-06, 06:58 PM
#4
Originally Posted by TOOSHORT_88
cool thks..
got any idea on how much a new stock one cost's
how much for a peformance one...
got any idea on how much a new stock one cost's
how much for a peformance one...
07-19-06, 07:50 PM
#7
oh, ok. Its been 8 months since I took it off so I'm a little fuzzy. This is gonna be real fun once I start putting it back together....
Also, its about 350 for a stock on and 260 for an aftermarket one on mazdatrix. You can get one for cheaper at a junk yard.
Also, its about 350 for a stock on and 260 for an aftermarket one on mazdatrix. You can get one for cheaper at a junk yard.
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07-19-06, 08:42 PM
#11
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Backing up on ramps, so tail is up in the air will let you not have to drain the oil. Easiest if you remove the heat shielding with the 10mm socket, but can be done without.
Slide it into the tranny, line up the flange with the 3rd member, slide in the 4 bolts from the 3rd member side being sure to jiggle so they meet flush, put on lock washer, tighten the four 14MM bolts to recommended torque.
You're done.
Slide it into the tranny, line up the flange with the 3rd member, slide in the 4 bolts from the 3rd member side being sure to jiggle so they meet flush, put on lock washer, tighten the four 14MM bolts to recommended torque.
You're done.
Last edited by HOZZMANRX7; 07-19-06 at 08:44 PM.
07-19-06, 11:33 PM
#12
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it's not too difficult, just remember to leave the car in neutral and with the e-brake off. get a long screwdriver or wrench and stick it in the rear end so the driveshaft does not spin on you when you don't want it to.
don't forget to lube up the bolts with some wd-40 or similar spray to loosen the bolts so they don't brake off, wear glasses to keep rust from getting into your eyes, and some gloves.
all in all after soaking the screws you could have it off in 15 min or so.
don't forget to lube up the bolts with some wd-40 or similar spray to loosen the bolts so they don't brake off, wear glasses to keep rust from getting into your eyes, and some gloves.
all in all after soaking the screws you could have it off in 15 min or so.
07-20-06, 01:22 AM
#14
You can't simply replace the U-joints in our cars, they are made part of the driveshaft itself. There are a few ways around this, (a quick search should turn something up), but I feel that the most cost effective route is finding a good used driveshaft.