So I am in the process of swapping the s5 UIM onto my car while keeping the s4 LIM. I got everything done except widening out the area around the new hole to allow room for the nut. Basically, I went too far towards the pass side with the dremel and went all the way through.
For those who don't know what I'm talking about, I used this writeup: http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=45&co=1&vi=1. In short, you have to drill a new hole on the back side of the VDI manifold (extension manifold, whatever its called) to line up with the s4 LIM. You then have to widen out that area to get the nut on, and thats where I screwed up.
I will post a pic of what I'm talking about in a minute.

 

Basically, what I need to know is if I can patch it with JB-weld, or if its totally trashed and I need to start over with a new manifold.
In the first pic, you can see how there is a black spot where I had be removing metal. That is the hole. I just sent too far to the right in this picture. The second pic shows what it looks like in relation to the new hole I drilled.

 

Perhaps tig welding the area to build up some material and then carefully grinding/ sanding it just enough to get a useable surface for the nut?

 

if its metal on the smooth inside of the hole put a peice of tape over the hole then fill the hole with jb weld after it sets for a day u can sand it smooth if u want to. if u got a large area u might wanna biult up the jb weld over a few days

u could weld it to fix the hole but it will take more work to bring it to shape

 

Hmmm, I honestly know next to nothing about welding, so I'm not quite sure how that would work. All I need is something that will patch that tiny hole, the rest of it is fine.
Mightymight, that is exactly what I was planning on doing. I was just wanting to make sure that there isn't any reason why I shouldn't do that.

 

Yeah I'd say get sombody to TIG or even MIG weld a glob of aluminum on it. the re-grind it. Or get another manifold. JB Weld would work but , for how long?

 

i would go with the jb weld u dont have that big of the a area and it will hold up after it cures... but if your running a turbo i wouldnt jb weld it

 

Well, as long as it lasts for a while (6 months to a year), I'm fine. I currently have a donor engine in my car while I am saving to properly rebuild my original engine that I have torn down. The time frame depends on how long it takes to save up the money for it and how crazy I decide to go with the rebuild.
This is just going to be on until I pull the engine again, at which time I will locate another manifold to swap on.

 

jb weld will last at least a few years depending if it ever gets smoken hot but on the intake manifold that never gets too warm to touch it should last a good while

 

IMHO, the s5 UIM with it's longer runners is good for a little extra bottom-end power, but you have to ask yourself is it worth the extra flange mods and port mods? Also, if I remember correctly, if you plan on using the TMIC, I think you have to use an s5 one due to the taller UIM mounting holes, or mod the s4 one, maybe someone here knows a bit more on this.

 

This is for an NA. Turbos don't have VDI.

 

True. My bad. Thought you had a tII.

 

JB Weld FTW!!!

 

One of these days I will, but its probably not gonna be for several years.

 

Find a local fabricator that can weld aluminum. Thats an easy fix. probably cost $20-$30

 

Take it to a school.. they have those classes and it'd probably be cheaper then $20-$30. Most extreme that would happen is they mess it up.

Or find a farmer. moster people that own farms or something like that weld.

 

I update the how-to with a warning about going too far, and a better explanation of how I did it. Sorry about that - I have to say I'd be tempted with the JB weld option myself.

 

Actually, to help the next guy who follows that, if you run into any issues or have improvements, please log in and update the how-to yourself - that way it will be as helpful as possible, and you'll have a warm, squishy feeling for helping the community!

(I'm thinking add how you fixed the hole in case someone else drills through, and anything else you ran into)

 

I was actually planning on updating it myself and giving a bit more deatil on what I ran into once I get it installed. Don't feel bad about it, I knew that I shouldn't go to far forward, but I did it anyway. Basically, I thought I knew where I should be dremmeling, but I got carried away and lost track of the right area. The part towards the drivers side (away from LIM) is a lot thicker, but it gets kinda thin towards the flange, which is where I went though. Basically, I just wasn't careful enough. I went ahead and finished it, and the area where I went though was significantly away from the part I actually needed to take off for the nut.

That said, I just went ahead and JB-welded it. It looks like it should hold up fine. I made sure to cover well around the area with the hold, so I shouldn't have a problem.
I'm at work whenever there are people at the welding department at my school, so it would just be too much hassle to get it done that way, and I'd just feel weird going up to a farmer and asking him to weld my intake manifold. lol

 

Also, I am going to operate the VDI with an electronic air pump tied to a rpm switch. When I get that done I will add it to the Wiki.

 

**********That said, I just went ahead and JB-welded it. It looks like it should hold up fine*******

Good move. There's no pressure in that area and as long as the area around the hole was cleaned up good it should last for years.

 

Excellent, it's cool to see the GV site being useful and getting used the way it's supposed to. I put up a page about some of the navigation features for first-time visitors:

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...=208&co=1&vi=1

Especially check out the navbar section. I'm making another floating bar that makes editing and inserting images easier too (less scrolling around the page). I'll transfer the air VDI actuation page over to you once it's up.

 

Yes! for us rotorheads JB weld goes a long way!

 

I looked at that hole and the first thing that came to mind was a pull rivet of about 3/16 diameter with some sealing material around the head after pulling it.

I've nothing against welding though. Weld and use a rotary file to dress it up.

But I'd probably used the JB instead. Cost effective. Time reducer. Mabe installed a small piece of .020 sheet metal over the hole and the JB around/above it. Just a half dime size piece of metal. Lots of ways to fix that.

How much did the dynamic chamber with VDI cost you?

 

Free
I bought a wrecked 91 NA that I parted out starting in late August. Pretty much anyone in the f/s section from then until a few months ago as probably seen one of my threads. I got the intake from that car, as well as the engine I currently have in my car.
I sold off most of the big stuff, but I still have some parts laying all over my garage, I just haven't had the time to mess with it lately.