toothpicsk8

im having a hell of a time with my car its been out of service for like 5 months. noone can find my problem. even mazda!!. and people claming to know rotary angines!!. when my car kinda ran sometimes my horn didnt work and sometimes the rev limiter didnt work and sometimes the car wont rev past 2,000 rpms could the cpu have anythign to do with that.or the ecu. and my dad sprayed some wd40 on a piece of the engine that looks vaccume related and now the car wont start for more than 2 seconds? the piece is right above the exhaust manifold and theres 2 of them they loook like canisters. oh and should the secondary injectors be spraying at idle? also i have compression in front but weaker in rear but befor the wd40 problem the car would start and run perfectly fine a puh puh once in awhile and id drive it for like 15 minuts and it would run on half engine. its a 87n/a with 120,000miles. mazda said it has compression to run. any info will be greatly appretiated.

WAYNE88N/A

1) perform a 60K tuneup (plugs, wires, check timing, etc...)

2) perform a sensor check from the ECU (search)

3) put some fresh gas in that puppy...

4) no, the secondaries aren't active at idle

5) the canister-looking thingys are the aux port actuators- WD-40 shouldn't hurt them...

6) if you don't have good compression numbers, keep in mind that she may just be a tired engine in need of a rebuild...

toothpicsk8

its has new plugs new wires coils,,, timing is fine,, mazda chacked all of that . my dad got a new ecu. it has new gas in it. oh well for some reson my secondary was spitting out gas and my dad replaced the one that wasnt. hmm ill tell him and have him replace the oother one cuz im liek 45 minuts away form him with no car!!. he told me he sprayed the aux port actuaters and then the car woulndt start properly at all.

toothpicsk8

now if one of those aux port actuaters was bad what would happen?

geargrabber

no, when the aux ports dont work you have lower performance at high rpm.


dude, pull some codes.


ill search for it FOR you.

geargrabber

here you go

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORC...KI/zerror.html


my engine ran fine without the pressure sensor being hooked up, but i got crappy mileage. I decide to pull some codes for ***** and giggles, low and behold i got the code for the pressure sensor! I totaly missed the electrical connection when i installed a different engine. Hooked it up... BAM! Now i get 15.5 mpg city milage, and thats with a heavy foot!!

turbine

iTrader: (1)

sounds kind of like a maf problem
starts for 2 sec and the dies
just my 3 cents

toothpicsk8

im alil noob not too sure what u mean by pulling codes do you mean using a checker of some sort?? i did install a diff engine. but i used the same ecu and coils and everythign from the car that it was in. it seems like the car gets waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyy too much gas and floods itself.

toothpicsk8

this car is been out of sevice so long i dont remember how to drive stick. im like 85% buying a 1997 240sx for $3,000. should i consintrate on my 7 still or should i buy this to get me around so i dont have to use my moms mercury couger xr-7 v6 thats on its last leg.???

BlaCkPlaGUE

He means that you can make a code checker out of simple radio shack materials and diagnose any sensor problems you may have.
You can search and find that out. Looks for 'make code checker'

Once you find out wich sensors are messed, replace them if any.

Next up, I highly recommend the 2nd gen faq section on adjusting idle, its really detailed and virtually eliminates everything that can go wrong when it comes to a good idle.

Those two things, along with fluid replacements, wires, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter (if stock), should give you a nice running engine. If it doesn't, you have some other internal issues that could cost you a bankload of money.


Run the car until warm, before you do the below.
I think before you do anything, get a compression tester, remove the check valve, and hook it up to the top spark plug hole. Have your dad hold the throttle fully open, pull the EGI fuse from the engine fuse box (near coils) and crank er. Wait for three bounces of the compression tester needle, this indicates compression for all three faces of the rotor. Note the PSI, your looking for three EVEN bounces of one number, hopefully 95psi or higher. If one bounce doesnt read, then you have some problems and that would explain why your car runs like garbage. No compression=no combustion, wich gives you a rough assed idle and very poor drivability. Do this for both the front and rear top spark plug holes and get back to us.

Rx7MPGUY84

What motor swap did you put in your car. maybe you dont have the right ecu hooked up. Depending if it was a turbo 2 motor or a n/a gtu or maybe a s4 or s5 motor. theres like 4 or 5 diff ecu's. good luck

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If your secondary injectors are firing at idle, are you sure you have the injector wires connected to the proper injectors? Check the FSM for the wire color codes.

toothpicsk8

i found a 87 na at a junk yard with smashed up panels and rust all over. the guy said it ran so i brought it home poped it in my $500 dollar 87 n/a perfect no rust. same engine as befor sept on turns over and the other is rusted on the inside yah thats right no rust on the car sept insite the engine. lol. swapped them out the ******* car turned over and started the first 2 cranks but it sounded real weird like it had alot of skippage. so i turned it off put new plugs filter the whole 9 yards. started it up ran ok still went puuh puh. but when the car warmed up it evened out. and when i started driving it it kinda stopped all together sept for frirst start up. it was running fine for a long time so i got it registered. i bourgh ti to my house drove it to school came home drove it to school in the monring and on the way home from school i had half an engine so i was like **** i blew my engine chugged it home on 1 rotor. the next day i started it up for ***** and giggles. boom starts up and runs fine. wtf right. so i took it for a ride half way down the roud back to half and engine and its been that way since. sorry for the large comeback

toothpicsk8

and everythign like coils and stuff and ecu i got from that old car.

toothpicsk8

yes the injector wires are at right ones its the only ones they can reach too .

BlaCkPlaGUE

Thats weird. goddamn sevens...

I get missing every couple seconds as well, compression is good enough that it shouldn't miss, I think my coils might be fucked, either that or the grounds are gone to ****. I havent tested any of that, but if you get a haynes, theres some good test procedures for the CAS and coils, combine that with the grounding article in the archives and you should solve or at least find out what is causing the engine to miss. That is, if it has good compression.

toothpicsk8

ok ill take a look but it has new coils in it . the coils and the ecu are from the car that i got the engine from. ill have to check every ground. thanks for info guys. damn the complexities of the nomcomplex rotory engine.

White Rice

hey i feel your pain...replaced just about everything too....new plugs, wires, new trailing coil pack (tested it and found it wasnt firing), new battery, and new starter...(all started with a bad starter)...since i replaced the starter,( first thing i did), been having incredibly crappy idle and no power...finally took it to a mechanic and they did a compression test...said it was fine....so i figure if its a vac leak or sensor i missed theyll find it right...not yet... i gave it to them friday they still have it... i call the guy yesterday and he said he's "baffled"....man this is depressing...i miss my 7

toothpicsk8

im looking into the injectors myself and cleaning the throttle body and replacing primary injectors and the secondarys. if this doesnt work then im buying a new car and replacing entire engine at a later date