The top two bolts, anyone with experience want to chime in and save me a lot of frustration?

I am trying to put in my RB exhaust, and so far I have everything from the DP back off. I looked at it for a few minutes yesterday, then decided to look for a write up/diy thread for some time and patience saving tips to no avail. And yes, I have used search.

Are the top two DP bolts best accessed from the top or bottom? Any special tools? Are they bolts supposed to have a folding lock waster on them from factory, or is this from the previous owner?

(I don't think I can get an extension with a wobble head in there from underneath the car, but I could be wrong that's why I am asking.)

Does the heat shield have to come off? The two back side 10 mm bolts on mine seems to be stripped by the previous owner (turning but not coming out).


Thanks.

 

You can get the top most one from the top of the engine bay. I do the others from the bottom with an extension. I cant remember if the shield needs to come off, I don't have mine anymore. The locking washers are pretty worthless because of the heat cycling, I double nut everything and use flat washers with loctite.

 

Yes.

 

I've had the nuts back themselves off with time, so locking them in place somehow is a good idea. And yeah, tightening those top two can be a real bitch. Swivel ratchets help a lot.

 

Those tab alone on the washers that are folded up about 5mm alone look like a pita. I guess I will need to pick up some very long handled pliers to pull them down.

 

i removed my downpipe so many times. i remove the top two bolts from the top of the engine bay and the last bolt from underneath the car. all i used was a 3 inch extension. no swivel socket.

 

I just used a wrench... from the top

 

Well when I get back ill it a whirl, seems hard to do with a ratcheting box head with the ac in the way.

 

Esp with that heat shield, I've turned those 10mm bolts enough to back them out 6 inches but I am not surprised. The guy who placed this motor dicked up probably 50% of every bolt and electrical connector he touched.

 

Just an update, if anyone cares.

The heat shield def has to be removed or moved. The two back bolts eventually came out with some added pressure from a flathead (not easy with big monkey hands) and well... the others ended up having to meet Mr. Pry Bar. Ghetto I know, but hey.

Next came the stubby flat head to bend back the tabs on the lock washers (for lack of a better name). And now I have the 2/3 of the DP bolts off.

The last bolt is blocked by the oxygen sensor, and yes I know the instructions state to remove it first. I assume it requires a 22mm oxygen sensor socket, which I don't have atm. Most local auto parts stores should have these right?

So I should be well on my way to blowing the motor, thanks

 

Yes most autopart stores SHOULD have the o2 socket.

 

or a 7/8" wrench

 

or 22mm in metric lol

 

I had a hell of a time getting around that stupid heatshield. I left it off, and just ran fiberglass header wrap instead.

 

Yeah, I just picked one up:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...nch-97177.html

Gotta love Harbor Freight, well until what ever you bought brakes a day later. Actually I got a 1/2 drive wrench from them with a telescoping handle that has proven invaluable.

 

yea well, my $50 Mac tools O2 sensor socket lasted a whole 2 uses before it split at a seam and now i can't find one who stops nearby. screw expensive tools, harbor freight is 2 blocks away and won't complain when their chinese tools break after 2 uses, just make sure you break them within the first 30 days!

that socket looks as durable if not more than the expensive crap you'll find on the tool trucks and i didn't even get a reacharound after my wallet took it in the rear.

 

Don't even get me started on tool brands....

I've bought Snap-on, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, Craftsman, HF... etc. etc.

Even when I worked at a garage, I still preferred Craftsman tools over the big 3 brands. I caught so much **** for buying/using them, but I wasn't the one waiting a week for the tool truck to stop by, then another week when he didn't want to break open a complete set to replace my one broken wrench. Which seemed to happen quite alot. I could just drive down to the local Sears store and get it replaced no questions. Time without tools = time without pay. HF stuff has its place, but alot of the tools I buy (hand & power tools alike) has a surprisingly high threshold for abuse.

 

i haven't bought a tool off the tool truck in several years, and that was only for stuff that are specialty tools that you can't buy generically. i'd rather spend $10 10 times(not really since even cheap tools have a warranty but being generous) and get 10 jobs done than spend $100, do 5 jobs and spend the rest of the time waiting.

 

 

That last bolt is rounded some. I have soaked it with PB twice, bought a better 6 point 14mm socket, and will soon sacrifice a small woodlands creature at work to appease the car gods.

I really really really hope it comes off because I don't think there is room for an extractor or vice grips to work.