Don't Know What To Do!! Please Help
10-12-06, 10:08 AM
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Don't Know What To Do!! Please Help
I jus bought a 1988 rx7 and not sure of how to maintain it, can n e one of yu guys help me out ? like when to check or change out w/e for the engine ... etc...
thx..
thx..
10-12-06, 10:14 AM
#2
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Step 1 is to read the FAQ stickied at the top of the forum.
Step 2 is probably to download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and/or buy a Haynes manual.
Step 3 is to learn how to use the search feature - it's an amazing tool that can answer almost any question you'll have on the 7.
Enjoy!
Step 2 is probably to download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and/or buy a Haynes manual.
Step 3 is to learn how to use the search feature - it's an amazing tool that can answer almost any question you'll have on the 7.
Enjoy!
10-12-06, 12:10 PM
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If you just bought the car and don't know it's pedigree, then you should probably do a full tune up.
- replace plugs and plug wires
- replace the fuel filter...it's under the oil filter and it can be a bitch to change
- change the oil and oil filter, the xmission fluid and the rear end fluid
- adjust the throttle position sensor and set the idle
- wouldn't hurt to drain and flush the radiator and replace the thermostat
If you are new to rotaries, they are much different from piston cars. That, plus you're talking about a 20 year old sports car. It would help a lot if you know your way around under ther car's hood and under the car. Read all of the frequently asked questions at the top of this forum. Then start reading these posts as you have time. Also, like GOOFY said, there is a search function on these forums. There is probably no issue that will arise with your car that hasn't been posted and discussed here. The search function will quickly direct you to those posts.
- replace plugs and plug wires
- replace the fuel filter...it's under the oil filter and it can be a bitch to change
- change the oil and oil filter, the xmission fluid and the rear end fluid
- adjust the throttle position sensor and set the idle
- wouldn't hurt to drain and flush the radiator and replace the thermostat
If you are new to rotaries, they are much different from piston cars. That, plus you're talking about a 20 year old sports car. It would help a lot if you know your way around under ther car's hood and under the car. Read all of the frequently asked questions at the top of this forum. Then start reading these posts as you have time. Also, like GOOFY said, there is a search function on these forums. There is probably no issue that will arise with your car that hasn't been posted and discussed here. The search function will quickly direct you to those posts.
10-12-06, 04:45 PM
#6
The FAQ here has a list of good oils to choose from. The FAQ and/or a search will answer most questions.
FSM or Haynes manual will tell you all the maintenance you need. A 60,000 mile tune-up will cover all the fluids, etc. you need to change (unless you're sure they've been changed already).
Other than that there are a couple things to note in a rotary. If you see the temp gauge hit 7/8, pull over within 30 seconds. Overheating will kill a rotary quick. 1/4 is normal, btw. Don't cut the ignition during the fast idle (2000+rpm) startup, or you could flood the engine and it won't start until unflooded.
Also look up "fuel pulsation dampener". Check it, especially if you smell gas.
FSM or Haynes manual will tell you all the maintenance you need. A 60,000 mile tune-up will cover all the fluids, etc. you need to change (unless you're sure they've been changed already).
Other than that there are a couple things to note in a rotary. If you see the temp gauge hit 7/8, pull over within 30 seconds. Overheating will kill a rotary quick. 1/4 is normal, btw. Don't cut the ignition during the fast idle (2000+rpm) startup, or you could flood the engine and it won't start until unflooded.
Also look up "fuel pulsation dampener". Check it, especially if you smell gas.
10-12-06, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by spot_skater
Change all fluids, filters, plugs, and wires.
tranny oil, diff oil, engine oil, coolant,air filter, fuel filter...
tranny oil, diff oil, engine oil, coolant,air filter, fuel filter...
Originally Posted by ericgrau
The FAQ here has a list of good oils to choose from. The FAQ and/or a search will answer most questions.
FSM or Haynes manual will tell you all the maintenance you need. A 60,000 mile tune-up will cover all the fluids, etc. you need to change (unless you're sure they've been changed already).
Other than that there are a couple things to note in a rotary. If you see the temp gauge hit 7/8, pull over within 30 seconds. Overheating will kill a rotary quick. 1/4 is normal, btw. Don't cut the ignition during the fast idle (2000+rpm) startup, or you could flood the engine and it won't start until unflooded.
Also look up "fuel pulsation dampener". Check it, especially if you smell gas.
FSM or Haynes manual will tell you all the maintenance you need. A 60,000 mile tune-up will cover all the fluids, etc. you need to change (unless you're sure they've been changed already).
Other than that there are a couple things to note in a rotary. If you see the temp gauge hit 7/8, pull over within 30 seconds. Overheating will kill a rotary quick. 1/4 is normal, btw. Don't cut the ignition during the fast idle (2000+rpm) startup, or you could flood the engine and it won't start until unflooded.
Also look up "fuel pulsation dampener". Check it, especially if you smell gas.
Spot Skater : How often do i change out all those? and i heard one of my friend said tat on the Rotary Engine I suppose to have it check up or something change out every 30k Miles... is iit true?
EricGrau : I'm not sure if I understand the Flood and Unflood methods tat you posted... because i found this forum today and i read alot about the engine will be flooded and stuff, but i dont really get it... so...
sorry im newb to Rotary =[... so dont get mad after u read this post =[
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10-12-06, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck
If you just bought the car and don't know it's pedigree, then you should probably do a full tune up.
- replace plugs and plug wires
- replace the fuel filter...it's under the oil filter and it can be a bitch to change
- change the oil and oil filter, the xmission fluid and the rear end fluid
- adjust the throttle position sensor and set the idle
- wouldn't hurt to drain and flush the radiator and replace the thermostat
If you are new to rotaries, they are much different from piston cars. That, plus you're talking about a 20 year old sports car. It would help a lot if you know your way around under ther car's hood and under the car. Read all of the frequently asked questions at the top of this forum. Then start reading these posts as you have time. Also, like GOOFY said, there is a search function on these forums. There is probably no issue that will arise with your car that hasn't been posted and discussed here. The search function will quickly direct you to those posts.
- replace plugs and plug wires
- replace the fuel filter...it's under the oil filter and it can be a bitch to change
- change the oil and oil filter, the xmission fluid and the rear end fluid
- adjust the throttle position sensor and set the idle
- wouldn't hurt to drain and flush the radiator and replace the thermostat
If you are new to rotaries, they are much different from piston cars. That, plus you're talking about a 20 year old sports car. It would help a lot if you know your way around under ther car's hood and under the car. Read all of the frequently asked questions at the top of this forum. Then start reading these posts as you have time. Also, like GOOFY said, there is a search function on these forums. There is probably no issue that will arise with your car that hasn't been posted and discussed here. The search function will quickly direct you to those posts.
sorry for 2x posting, but can i bring the car to the Shop and let them do it for me? or do i have to bring it to a specific shop for rx7 to have it done?
10-13-06, 12:13 AM
#9
The Haynes manual or FSM will also tell you how often to change the tranny oil, diff oil, engine oil, coolant,air filter, fuel filter, etc., etc. It is often recommended to simply change everything when you first get a car, unless you know its history. These are all basic maintenance items that all cars have to do. Any shop can do them for you. But most basic maintenance items are easy and the mechanically inclined can save quite a bit of money if they do them themselves. Fluids are especially easy.
An FC (1986-1992) won't need a rotary specific shop unless you need to rebuild the engine. Hopefully that time won't come for years. FDs (1993-1995) are different.
When you start your car it will idle at 2000rpm or so for a while (for rapid warmup), then it will drop down to 750rpm-1500rpm. If you shut off your car during the 2000+rpm idle you will flood your engine, and it won't start again. It's only an issue if you move your car a short distance. Pressing the gas lightly in neutral to get it up to 3000rpm for 10 seconds and then releasing the gas should make the rpms drop to normal. If you search these forums there are instructions on how to unflood.
An FC (1986-1992) won't need a rotary specific shop unless you need to rebuild the engine. Hopefully that time won't come for years. FDs (1993-1995) are different.
When you start your car it will idle at 2000rpm or so for a while (for rapid warmup), then it will drop down to 750rpm-1500rpm. If you shut off your car during the 2000+rpm idle you will flood your engine, and it won't start again. It's only an issue if you move your car a short distance. Pressing the gas lightly in neutral to get it up to 3000rpm for 10 seconds and then releasing the gas should make the rpms drop to normal. If you search these forums there are instructions on how to unflood.
Last edited by ericgrau; 10-13-06 at 12:24 AM.
10-13-06, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ericgrau
The Haynes manual or FSM will also tell you how often to change the tranny oil, diff oil, engine oil, coolant,air filter, fuel filter, etc., etc. It is often recommended to simply change everything when you first get a car, unless you know its history. These are all basic maintenance items that all cars have to do. Any shop can do them for you. But most basic maintenance items are easy and the mechanically inclined can save quite a bit of money if they do them themselves. Fluids are especially easy.
An FC (1986-1992) won't need a rotary specific shop unless you need to rebuild the engine. Hopefully that time won't come for years. FDs (1993-1995) are different.
When you start your car it will idle at 2000rpm or so for a while (for rapid warmup), then it will drop down to 750rpm-1500rpm. If you shut off your car during the 2000+rpm idle you will flood your engine, and it won't start again. It's only an issue if you move your car a short distance. Pressing the gas lightly in neutral to get it up to 3000rpm for 10 seconds and then releasing the gas should make the rpms drop to normal. If you search these forums there are instructions on how to unflood.
An FC (1986-1992) won't need a rotary specific shop unless you need to rebuild the engine. Hopefully that time won't come for years. FDs (1993-1995) are different.
When you start your car it will idle at 2000rpm or so for a while (for rapid warmup), then it will drop down to 750rpm-1500rpm. If you shut off your car during the 2000+rpm idle you will flood your engine, and it won't start again. It's only an issue if you move your car a short distance. Pressing the gas lightly in neutral to get it up to 3000rpm for 10 seconds and then releasing the gas should make the rpms drop to normal. If you search these forums there are instructions on how to unflood.
I get what you're trying to tell me now... and another question is that what's FSM or Hayness Manual <<< where can i find those?, and I do really love cars and love to tune them up myself but I never tried be4 and i barely have time to touch even a small little part of it...
that's why itz ezier for me to just bring it to the shop and let them do it for me =[... ...so like everytime the car starts, the rpm will be idle at 2k RPM for a while then slowly stepping on the gas pedal to get it up to 3k for 10 sec and release it and wait for the RPM to drop rite? i jus want to make sure if i realy understand it...
Thank You for your help bud.
10-13-06, 11:32 AM
#11
The Cause of Death
Originally Posted by spot_skater
Change all fluids, filters, plugs, and wires.
tranny oil, diff oil, engine oil, coolant,air filter, fuel filter...
tranny oil, diff oil, engine oil, coolant,air filter, fuel filter...
All other fluids every 30k. I'd do the fuel filter around 20-25k.
10-13-06, 02:14 PM
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The RX7's have an accelerated warmup system that , when you initially crank the engine, it will rev to 2500-3000 for a couple of seconds and then slow down to maybe 1500. From then on it acts the same way any car would warming up. Once it's up to normal operating temp, the idle should be at 700-800.
Haynes manuals available at car parts stores. Auto Zone, Advance Auto. They might have to order one for you. The Mazda factory service manuals are on line. Look in the FAQ section of this forum under manuals/links.
Haynes manuals available at car parts stores. Auto Zone, Advance Auto. They might have to order one for you. The Mazda factory service manuals are on line. Look in the FAQ section of this forum under manuals/links.
10-13-06, 02:50 PM
#13
Yeah, the accelerated warmup system only kicks in for a couple minutes, then it's done and you don't have to worry about it.
Coolant, fuel filter, and oil are sensitive items in a rotary. Some people do them early, but others do great doing them on time or even a little late. Just don't neglect them; ignore one for long enough and your motor will be gone. And whenever you or a shop replaces the thermostat, be sure to use OEM (from a Mazda dealer). Unlike other cars the auto store thermostats are NOT the same as OEM, whatever they may tell you. They will cause problems - minor at first, worse later.
Coolant, fuel filter, and oil are sensitive items in a rotary. Some people do them early, but others do great doing them on time or even a little late. Just don't neglect them; ignore one for long enough and your motor will be gone. And whenever you or a shop replaces the thermostat, be sure to use OEM (from a Mazda dealer). Unlike other cars the auto store thermostats are NOT the same as OEM, whatever they may tell you. They will cause problems - minor at first, worse later.
Last edited by ericgrau; 10-13-06 at 02:54 PM.
... -pokes pokes- the info tat yall provided are really helpful...
10-15-06, 07:10 AM
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Something I didn't notice as I read through the posts above-----Change or get changed, all the vacuum hoses on your 88. When I first got mine a few years back now, I kept having Idle problems, warm up problems, even the vacuum cruise was screwed up. I changed out all the vacuum hoses to silicones and viola'---the problems were history.
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