hey guys, im doing a turbo 2 swap soon and i had some questions. First, i wanted to know whats one of the best clutches i can buy, i autocross, drag, and drift(weekend warrior) i would also like it to streetable to some extent lol. Second, i wanted to know what oil and weight i should use. In my N/A i run Valvoline VR1 20w-50. I also wanted to know if any of you guys use Pro-Tek or any other oil additive in your turbo motors. and lastly i wanted to know what are some mods i can buy to get me in the 300whp range, i dont have the money to go ported anytime soon lol. but yea, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

 

1) ACT

2) Oil viscosity depends on temperatures, not whether the engine is turbo or NA

3) Hybrid turbo

 

so any of ACTs clutches will do? and when you say hybrid turbo you mean like the BNR's? i heard about them but never looked into them

 

1: ACT is good. There have been reports of snapping pivot ***** when using the heavy duty pressure plate(I have snapped one myself after 6 months of drifting)

Spec Stage 2 did me good for many years.

2: 20w-50 Use it. Love it.
I personally use regular mobil but have used Royal Purple/etc. Run Synthetic if you can.
Tagged on---- Use PREMIX and remove the OMP

3:Hybrid turbo or a mild T04. BNR Stage 2 should get you in the 300 range.

 

Really....? why would it be better to use premix instead of the OMP? and do you use proteck or lucas oil additive or anything like that. and for the turbo you mean like a T04E or something, whats the spool characteristics for stock porting (like when is full spool)

 

Premix is not necessary. It's something some people do when their MOP fails, and others choose to do it because they want to unclutter the engine bay. I've done it in the past, and it gets annoying quickly.

BNR stage 1 is a T04b v-trim, stage 2 is a T04b h-trim with a T04 compressor housing. Both will be capable of approx. 300 whp. http://www.bnrturbos.com/2ndGen.htm. Stage 1/2 spool is nearly the same as stock. The stage 3 & 4 use a 60-1 compressor wheel and are much laggier, but can make more power.

 

oh ok, thanks alot. can use them the Stage 1/2 on the stock top mount or do i have to go with a front mount

 

You can use the TMIC, but intake temps will be higher than with a good FMIC. Water injection on a TMIC would be a good compromise between the two options.

 

how much am i looking at for something like that

 

I've never had a problem with the ACT heavy duty pressure plate. It is the "Xtreme" pressure plate that seems to cause the most problems. just get the ACT performance street disc. don't get more clutch than you need because the heavier duty discs are not designed to last, they are designed to hold torque.

 

.I always have to snicker when I see "how much will this cost me If I do this,or this?"..
I keep changing my mind,Mid Project..it is REAL expensive!.
My suggestion: Find a Setup.A Decent one that you Would Like,and STICK To the budget.Don't Variate the Parts.If you do,then the car is gonna cost you about as much as a Small cottage in the Hamptons!

 

whatever you think it will cost, add 50% to that at least

 

Ok, you want a price rundown?

13bt - 1500
T04E - 150-250 (cheap ebay turbo, not a good one)
Turbo manifold - 300
Exhaust - 400
Front mount with piping - 500
Walbro fuel pump - 100
2 720cc injectors - 100
rtek 1.7 - 150

Your aiming at around $3000 after the swap with the car running. Although, this is just to get the engine running if you want a upgraded turbo. Don't forget your still on the stock rear end & tranny. If your thinking about doing a drivetrain swap, you better double the total cost.


And I live in Orlando. If you need any help with this swap, shoot me a pm.

 

if he goes with a turbo other than stock (or hybrid) he will need a manifold, wastegate, and custom downpipe. i would never encourage someone to go down that route unless they have a decent amount of money. boost control is tricky and expensive.

 

Agreed. I say put the motor in stock and get use to it and how it acts before you speed up how it acts and break something.

 

ok, well i found a complete J-spec turbo 2 for 1250, which includes everything except the driveshaft i believe, im already LSD and im about to buy a turbo 2 hood, i dont know if these motorsets come with clutches or not

 

keep your omp cause the cost of buying two stroke oil every time you fill up cost's alot,it adds up

 

best?
i have a os giken twin disc clutch i can part with
it is one of the "best" as far as that goes....

 

So does building a new motor.

Premixing is FAR superior to the shitty omp.

Which would you rather have?
a few cc's of engine oil secreted onto the center only part of the apex seals to lubricate and cool them down
OR
Atomized MEANT to be burned 2 stroke oil lubricating the whole chamber?

Go and ask engine builders what they prefer too.