hey i never really looked into it but how many apex seals are in a 13BT

 

you should probably look into it then.

www.google.com

13b apex seals.

 

3 seals per rotor.. 13B's have 2 rotors so there are 6 apex seals in total.

 

 

so then which would be better 3mm or 2mm im getting a deal their racing seals also kinda pricy but right now thats not a problem

 

Depends entirely on your setup/goals. if you're asking how many apex seals there are, you're probably going to want to stick with 2mm.

Who are you talking about when you say "their racing seals"? how much are they?

Details are golden here. We can't help if we don't know what you're talking about. if you think you're giving us too many details, you're wrong.

 

**** man im not saying im not giving enough details cause its gunna confuse you haha no "their racing seals" meaning the seals im buying are for racing, rotary performance makes them and the 3mm and the 2mm are the same price 550 for 6 and if their the same price well hell i want whats gunna give me more in the end

my goal is i want something that will hold up better to horse power and their the best seals im finding and im wanting to know which would be better for holding up to power, heat, wear and possibly pushing it to the edge for those certain nights ya know???

 

3mm seals require you to mill the rotors. You might wanna do some more "reSEARCH", you'll learn alot and probably find the answer to your question.

 

mazda stock seals and a really good tune with water injection.

 

I think you mean 'they're racing seals'

 

we still need details.
you say you want more horsepower. How much? 300whp? 450? 10,988,234,98? saying "I want it to be zoomy fast" doesn't cut it.
Turbo or NA? if turbo how much boost? stock turbo?
going standalone?
what year is your car?
what kind of racing you want to do? drag? autox?
you want it to be streetable?
DETAILS!!

and yes. searching can do wonders.

 

if you have to ask, your **** probably wont last as long as one of iceblue's engines...
3mm is not needed on your motor... unless you cant tune...
but if thats the case, i don't think 3mm would help either.

you want the best seals? go with mazda.

 

Well the thing is, guys that built my engine dont reccomend 3mm. They only install 2mm that way if you happen to blow the engine again, you can open it up to 3mm seals. If you blow the 3mm seals well new housings it is. The 3mm arent really stronger than the 2mm anyway

 

This confuses the **** outa me. So if I blow my rebuild engine and want to rebuild it I cant use 3mm seals again? Or if I one where to blow a rebuilt engine he couldn't use 2mm againg? Why do 3mm seals destroy the housing upon being blown? (hehe hehe, blown)

 

Any apex seal, 2mm or 3mm, will most likely destroy a housing when it goes... I think he meant new rotor, like if the 2mm goes and ***** up the apex seal groove a little, it may be able to be fixed by milling out to 3mm. Once the 3mm groove gets messed up the rotor is pretty much effed in the A.

 

Yeah, sorry didnt realise how poorly i had written that

 

not trying to be an ***. But the questions asked are basic and easy to find info on, At this point if you need an engine fast the only thing you should do is get an engine by a WELL known builder IE a dealer with a rotor head or Mazdatrix / Racingbeat etc. I would not recommended you build one your self or have an local friend of a fiend that "knows his ****," if he knows nothing he could still tell you stuff that thats 100% bull.
If you have time SEARCH there are lots of good rebuild info in the archives and lots of good performance whats real and whats magical 1000hp air pump supercharger crap, and build it your self. When you build it you learn and if fails you will have a better understanding of why and will be less likely to screw it up again. Just remember the saying build it right or build it twice, do research and have fun as an RX is pointless if you don't have fun.
what ever path you walk I wish you luck and hope you learn more than you spend.

 

ok ill get to it i have an 87 RX7 i traded it to a guy for a 97 civic EX turbo'd blew the tranny said **** it hondas arent my thing its a turbo 13B and to be honest im doing it myself sure its not the best thing to do but really id rather do it myself so that away i can strip everything back out so i can go threw and redo somethings that are just so much easier to get to without the engine or tranny in it really what im wanting is between 315 and 360 sure odd numbers but i figure 350 ill be happy as pie racing imma probably do either drap or corners just depends i have the steering/suspension down streetable would be nice and i plan on going standalone eventually here soon and id rather ask questions of fellow people on here for advice thats the way ive always learned and thats how ive done some past cars that are rippin up streets sure doesnt seem like it cause im asking questions but the thing is ive dealt more with piston engines than anything ive been getting into rotary for the past year havent had as much time cause ive been doing school and work but other than that i do know my fair amount just when it comes to internals not so good its the stock turbo also but i might upgrade so ya im thinking like maybe a T2 but i need to find a good one

 

you're thinking of upgrading from a stock turbo to a T2? Are you referring to the Turbo II rx7? because that IS the stock turbo.
For 315 - 360whp, 2mm apex seals will be more than enough. No shame in doing the work yourself, it's an amazing way to learn about your engine and it's a lot cheaper. Just take your time and go step by step.

And please please please use some sentence structure. That last post was a pain to read.

 

In general the stock 2mm is a better option than 3mm, performance applications included. Worn out rotors or special applications need 3mm.

The best way to hold on to your apex seals in a turbo is to get it tuned every time you upgrade something or up the boost. Typically the only thing that pops an apex seal is detonation, and the most common way to stop detonation is to cool the intake charge with extra vaporizing fuel. That means you need some kind of fuel management system (search). As you add more power you'll also need larger injectors, a bigger fuel pump, etc. You also need to keep the boost from upping on its own, which typically means a ported wastegate or some other boost control. Detonation is probably the most common way to destroy a turbo engine and if severe it can destroy an engine instantaneously, so make sure you search, read up and do this right.

Severe overheating - bad thermostat (replace regularly with OEM only), neglecting coolant changes, not turning your car off soon after the temp pegs or coolant buzzer goes off, old hoses, etc. - is also high on the list of causes of engine destruction. Also only takes 1 really bad event to destroy an engine; for example thermostat sticks, temp pegs, driver just keeps driving and driving. Everything else is a distant 3rd.

The items mentioned in the 2nd paragraph should come before upgrades. Besides those, here are the things you want to upgrade on a turbo: exhaust, intake, boost, street port. Search for more info, Those will bring you very, very far already. For the most extreme applications, do a search for: auxillary injection, bridge port, peripheral port. Only in extreme applications do you need to strengthen anything in the engine (and typically it's the rotors, etc.). www.mazdatrix.com has info on this. Otherwise the tuning mentioned in the 2nd paragraph is key. Budget $10,000+ for extreme applications, just as a ballpark (again, do a search for more info).

 

Is it just me, or do more and more people that post have NO IDEA what punctuation is? I mean seriously, how do people expect to get answers to their question when it gives people migraines to read them? This izn't derected to tha OP jus sayin it cuz it pizzez meh aff en jeneral.

 

speaking to ericgrau

i already have the injectors ugraded just for furture use. the hoses i will def. look into now that you bring it up. when you say more vaporizing fuel like 93 octane?

what would you yourself recommend for a stand alone system?

your also saying that it is fine to go with 2mm and that not be a problem

 

guess no one replyed

 

For you're horsepower goals, 2mm is just fine. Mazda OEM seals are typically the best, but if you've got a deal in the works, go for it. As for standalone's it's up to you, all have their benefits, and all have their drawbacks.... I personally recommend Haltech, but if you're on a budget, I'm a big fan of the megasquirt kits.

 

2mm

Glad we could tempt another away from the honduhs. haha. (honda bashing... LoL)

The FAQ has a lot of information. Also, searching for upgrading a T2, or performance mods for a T2, will help a lot.

Good luck. Keep us posted on the build up / upgrading.

If you want a standalone, check out the standalone part of the forum. I am an EE major in college, and have lots of experience w/ electrical components. I am going to be Squirtin' my car. But, I have heard good things of Microtech, Wolf, .... little good and bad about all of them actually.