Guys,

I'm about to do my first clutch job on my '87 TII and I need hints/tips/advice.
I plan to the following with stock parts from mcomp:
Clutch, Pressure Plate, TO Bearing, Pilot Bearing, Trans. Mount, Trans. Fluid, and possibly slave, master, and hydraulic line.

Is there anything else I should change while i'm there? I remember reading that the pilot bearing was tough to get out (anybody have tips for this?). What about removing / resurfacing the flywheel, necessary? I remember reading the nut is hard to get off the flywheel, tip for that? I have replaced the transmission on an old 1st gen. I had a long time ago but never a clutch...anything I need to know?

Thanks in advance for the help guys.

Todd

 

The pilot bearing will be your biggest obstacle. My dad and I tried everything in our shop. He finally custom made a tool for pulling the bearing. Your best choice is to buy the tool from racing beat. Shouldn't be that expensive. Be sure to support your engine and try to maintain the proper alignment for when you reinstall the tranny. Might be a good idea to replace the rear seal on the tranny as well as u joints on drive shaft also. Since you will be removing the exhaust i would change the gasket out also.

 

I believe that RX7.com will let you rent the pilot bearing puller that will make the job easier, even if you do not live in Texas. I think they charge 15 dollars plus shipping.

 

dude you cant replace u joints on rx7 drive shafts that just another way of saving them money making the car to make you spend more money on the car. My friend got one replaced for his 88 base and it was like 450 after install. - Gabe

 

bump

 

ok if you want the flywheel off your gonna have to get a 2 3/8 i think im not sure its a 3/4 drive socket and then get an air gun to take it off be careful taking the flywheel off giving equal pressure to all sides ive done 3 clutches and 1 flywheel trust me its not the clutch or flywhell thats gonna **** you off its the trans alignment hehe. good luck - Gabe

 

Don't waste any money renting a bearing puller. Go to some parts store chain that has free tool rentals. You'll have to pay a "deposit" that you will get back when you return the tool.

 

I'm in the same boat with my 86 na.... just use the free tool like west jax says, thats what i'll be doing. Are new trans. mounts neccesary? Thanks,

~Jesse

86 na, blue

 

Ok... first, the bearing puller from most parts stores is NOT the same... the one you can rent from RP is DA BOMB!

Second, the flywheel nut is 2 1/8" and it SUCKS to change a flywheel. DON'T do it unless you have to. If the flywheel looks pretty much ok, just scuff the friction surface a little with some scotchbrite pads.

You'll need the "clutch alignement tool" too. costs a couple of bucks, it's a plastic replica of the splined portion and tip of the input shaft. You use it to center the clutch disk while tightening down the pressure plate.

IF you use the alignment tool, getting things back together is pretty easy. There is a stud with a nut on the top center of the bellhousing- remove the nut and screw that stud WAY in to make it easier- it's slotted for a screwdriver even.

Oh... while you are changing all this, you have to remove your shifter anyway... now is a good time to replace the shifter bushings. When you order a shifter bushing kit, it has 1 bushing... you need 2, so order 2 kits.

Pay attention when you bolt the driveshaft back on- the bolts "index" into a cutout for the bolt head. It's pretty easy to get it in and tight, and then realize the bolt head isn't all the way against the flange on the differential- turn the bolt until the head can seat all the way against the flange.

 

Make sure you put the clutch disc in the right way.

 

I wouldn't really care if the puller was the same or not. Free is free and it beats waiting on something in the mail. The one from Autozone (or Western Auto?) worked just fine for me.

The spline adapter should come with his clutch kit, or at least it did in my case.

 

Not all tools are created equal! Heh

I've tried the free one from the local parts place.. didn't fit right.. couldn't use it. Maybe other places have a better one, I dunno.

Anyhow, I'm now the proud owner of a real Mazda approved pilot removal tool and it ROCKS. You just put it in there and in about 30 seconds you have the pilot out with no fuss. I've spent HOURS on previous jobs making little things to jam in there to get it out. This thing was worth every penny. (about 100 bucks I think).

Regards,
Brian

87 TII
93 R1