do you have a turbo timer?
01-11-10, 11:48 PM
#1
do you have a turbo timer?
do you have a stock turbo?
stock turbos have coolant cooling and generally have a fairly cool cartridge, there is no reason to need or use a turbo timer on a stock turbo 7. period. the end.
why should you not use a turbo timer? throttle sticking. i'm sure most of you have had it happen at one point, if not it is easily possible. i've had it happen on a few occasions, RPMs bouncing off the limiter trying to find the timer to shut it down... is it worth it to save a few thousand miles of turbo life at possibly popping a motor?
does a stock turbo really need a turbo timer? nope, not even if you drive the **** out of the car and shut it down immediately. i do it to my hybrid and i never worry about it, because i don't have to, neither should you because you don't have to.
don't believe what people tell you about these crappy electronics to clutter up the interior of your car or the real headaches they can cause, if it makes you feel better seeing battery voltage then that's fine, just turn the timer portion off.
stock turbos have coolant cooling and generally have a fairly cool cartridge, there is no reason to need or use a turbo timer on a stock turbo 7. period. the end.
why should you not use a turbo timer? throttle sticking. i'm sure most of you have had it happen at one point, if not it is easily possible. i've had it happen on a few occasions, RPMs bouncing off the limiter trying to find the timer to shut it down... is it worth it to save a few thousand miles of turbo life at possibly popping a motor?
does a stock turbo really need a turbo timer? nope, not even if you drive the **** out of the car and shut it down immediately. i do it to my hybrid and i never worry about it, because i don't have to, neither should you because you don't have to.
don't believe what people tell you about these crappy electronics to clutter up the interior of your car or the real headaches they can cause, if it makes you feel better seeing battery voltage then that's fine, just turn the timer portion off.
01-12-10, 12:34 AM
#4
using a turbo timer just bakes the engine. without air moving through the radiator and across the oil cooler you are doing more harm than good.
even with a turbo that doesn't use coolant...some nice sedate driving is a much better way to cool things down before shutting down.
even with a turbo that doesn't use coolant...some nice sedate driving is a much better way to cool things down before shutting down.
01-12-10, 12:46 AM
#5
mazda doesn't know everything or they would have made the cast irons thicker at the coolant seal lands, used better chromoly plating 20 years ago, higher compression rotors with bigger ports, etc. of course they don't know everything nor do i think they claim to. these engines had unlimited potential even over 30 years ago.
01-12-10, 04:17 AM
#6
Registered Loser
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Whiterock
Posts: 2,224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
snake oil. in the summer if you are stuck in 5 o'clock traffic you look down and the first thing you notice is your coolant temp rising. now if you've been beating the **** out of your car and notice the coolant gauge starting to creep the last thing you do is shut off your car, unless you wanted the coolant to boil. sitting at idle might help some, but not as much as putting around getting some air in there. to put a TT in real world use, when would you ever boost then shut off you car? when you just got pulled over.
Trending Topics
01-12-10, 05:26 AM
#8
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
You forgot to add that turbo timers can make the car easier to steal, their installation could cause problems with your insurance company if you have full coverage, and leaving a car unattended with the engine running is illegal in some areas.
The turbo just needs a little bit of time off-boost, which is usually accomplished during the time that you are driving through a parking lot or your neighborhood. Most people do not drive so erratic as to boost the engine and then immediately slam on the brakes and turn off the engine, and even in that case a good water-cooled turbo will still cool down if the water feed is designed properly.
With the exception of a few extreme cases, the turbo and engine will still cool down if the car is not moving, however you are correct in that nice sedate driving is a much better method.
using a turbo timer just bakes the engine. without air moving through the radiator and across the oil cooler you are doing more harm than good.
even with a turbo that doesn't use coolant...some nice sedate driving is a much better way to cool things down before shutting down.
even with a turbo that doesn't use coolant...some nice sedate driving is a much better way to cool things down before shutting down.
01-12-10, 12:07 PM
#9
last i did it was a few weeks ago, the front cam on the throttle plate got pinched in the wiring harness and pinned the throttle wide open. nothing like watching an engine you built and tuned sit there revving off the 9k limiter without a load on it. i promptly chewed him out for being a sheep because i almost had a heart attack looking for the TT.
yes i know, the most harm it probably did was clean some carbon off the rotors.. but it's beside the point!
yes i know, the most harm it probably did was clean some carbon off the rotors.. but it's beside the point!
01-12-10, 12:21 PM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've never seen the need for a turbo timer. It's a gee-whiz gadget that no sensible person needs. Just keep your foot out of it for the last few minutes before you park it. Put your turbo timer money toward something that actually makes your car better.
01-12-10, 02:23 PM
#12
I've never felt the need for a Turbo Timer. Just don't mash on it and the immediately shut it off.
01-12-10, 05:03 PM
#14
Goddamn it Turbo II Rotor! Just when I thought I could agree with you on something (another thread), you pull this BS out of your hat!
Direct Quote From Garrett Website,
"Blow-Off (Bypass) Valves
The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped). When the throttle is closed rapidly, the airflow is quickly reduced, causing flow instability and pressure fluctuations. These rapidly cycling pressure fluctuations are the audible evidence of surge. Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it.
Blow-Off valves use a combination of manifold pressure signal and spring force to detect when the throttle is closed. When the throttle is closed rapidly, the BOV vents boost in the intake tract to atmosphere to relieve the pressure; helping to eliminate the phenomenon of surge."
Direct Quote from Turbonetics Website,
"Q: Should I run a Blow-Off/By-Pass Valve (BOV) on my turbocharged car? What does it do?
A: Yes, all turbo cars can benefit by running a BOV on their vehicle. A BOV works by relieving the compressed air pressure trapped in the piping when the throttle body closes. The turbocharger continues to spin from the exhaust gasses exiting the engine and the compressed air has nowhere to go. The BOV opens and prevents the compressed air from "backing up" onto the compressor wheel causing surge. By venting or re-routing the trapped air, the BOV allows the turbocharger to spool up quicker between shifts and prevents long term damage from continual surging of the compressor wheel.
NOTE: If your vehicle has a Mass Air-Flow Sensor, it is important to re-route or By-Pass the air back into the inlet of the turbocharger (behind the MAS) so that the vehicles computer does not raise/alter the air-fuel mixture, causing the car to potentially run rich between shifts."
Nuff said, or are we supposed to believe that you know more about turbo charger systems than Garrett or Turbonectics. Get a clue... Oh, and my DP hasn't been susceptible to any 'heat degradation' from wrapping it either.
Direct Quote From Garrett Website,
"Blow-Off (Bypass) Valves
The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped). When the throttle is closed rapidly, the airflow is quickly reduced, causing flow instability and pressure fluctuations. These rapidly cycling pressure fluctuations are the audible evidence of surge. Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it.
Blow-Off valves use a combination of manifold pressure signal and spring force to detect when the throttle is closed. When the throttle is closed rapidly, the BOV vents boost in the intake tract to atmosphere to relieve the pressure; helping to eliminate the phenomenon of surge."
Direct Quote from Turbonetics Website,
"Q: Should I run a Blow-Off/By-Pass Valve (BOV) on my turbocharged car? What does it do?
A: Yes, all turbo cars can benefit by running a BOV on their vehicle. A BOV works by relieving the compressed air pressure trapped in the piping when the throttle body closes. The turbocharger continues to spin from the exhaust gasses exiting the engine and the compressed air has nowhere to go. The BOV opens and prevents the compressed air from "backing up" onto the compressor wheel causing surge. By venting or re-routing the trapped air, the BOV allows the turbocharger to spool up quicker between shifts and prevents long term damage from continual surging of the compressor wheel.
NOTE: If your vehicle has a Mass Air-Flow Sensor, it is important to re-route or By-Pass the air back into the inlet of the turbocharger (behind the MAS) so that the vehicles computer does not raise/alter the air-fuel mixture, causing the car to potentially run rich between shifts."
Nuff said, or are we supposed to believe that you know more about turbo charger systems than Garrett or Turbonectics. Get a clue... Oh, and my DP hasn't been susceptible to any 'heat degradation' from wrapping it either.
01-13-10, 12:30 AM
#22
Goddamn it Turbo II Rotor! Just when I thought I could agree with you on something (another thread), you pull this BS out of your hat!
Direct Quote From Garrett Website,
"Blow-Off (Bypass) Valves
The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped). When the throttle is closed rapidly, the airflow is quickly reduced, causing flow instability and pressure fluctuations. These rapidly cycling pressure fluctuations are the audible evidence of surge. Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it.
Blow-Off valves use a combination of manifold pressure signal and spring force to detect when the throttle is closed. When the throttle is closed rapidly, the BOV vents boost in the intake tract to atmosphere to relieve the pressure; helping to eliminate the phenomenon of surge."
Direct Quote from Turbonetics Website,
"Q: Should I run a Blow-Off/By-Pass Valve (BOV) on my turbocharged car? What does it do?
A: Yes, all turbo cars can benefit by running a BOV on their vehicle. A BOV works by relieving the compressed air pressure trapped in the piping when the throttle body closes. The turbocharger continues to spin from the exhaust gasses exiting the engine and the compressed air has nowhere to go. The BOV opens and prevents the compressed air from "backing up" onto the compressor wheel causing surge. By venting or re-routing the trapped air, the BOV allows the turbocharger to spool up quicker between shifts and prevents long term damage from continual surging of the compressor wheel.
NOTE: If your vehicle has a Mass Air-Flow Sensor, it is important to re-route or By-Pass the air back into the inlet of the turbocharger (behind the MAS) so that the vehicles computer does not raise/alter the air-fuel mixture, causing the car to potentially run rich between shifts."
Nuff said, or are we supposed to believe that you know more about turbo charger systems than Garrett or Turbonectics. Get a clue... Oh, and my DP hasn't been susceptible to any 'heat degradation' from wrapping it either.
Direct Quote From Garrett Website,
"Blow-Off (Bypass) Valves
The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped). When the throttle is closed rapidly, the airflow is quickly reduced, causing flow instability and pressure fluctuations. These rapidly cycling pressure fluctuations are the audible evidence of surge. Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it.
Blow-Off valves use a combination of manifold pressure signal and spring force to detect when the throttle is closed. When the throttle is closed rapidly, the BOV vents boost in the intake tract to atmosphere to relieve the pressure; helping to eliminate the phenomenon of surge."
Direct Quote from Turbonetics Website,
"Q: Should I run a Blow-Off/By-Pass Valve (BOV) on my turbocharged car? What does it do?
A: Yes, all turbo cars can benefit by running a BOV on their vehicle. A BOV works by relieving the compressed air pressure trapped in the piping when the throttle body closes. The turbocharger continues to spin from the exhaust gasses exiting the engine and the compressed air has nowhere to go. The BOV opens and prevents the compressed air from "backing up" onto the compressor wheel causing surge. By venting or re-routing the trapped air, the BOV allows the turbocharger to spool up quicker between shifts and prevents long term damage from continual surging of the compressor wheel.
NOTE: If your vehicle has a Mass Air-Flow Sensor, it is important to re-route or By-Pass the air back into the inlet of the turbocharger (behind the MAS) so that the vehicles computer does not raise/alter the air-fuel mixture, causing the car to potentially run rich between shifts."
Nuff said, or are we supposed to believe that you know more about turbo charger systems than Garrett or Turbonectics. Get a clue... Oh, and my DP hasn't been susceptible to any 'heat degradation' from wrapping it either.
anyways, DOWN WITH TURBO TIMERS!
I bought one just because it was $40 with jump harness. 
01-13-10, 11:13 AM
#25
How 'bout saying 'Down with Wiring Harness Dumbasses?'
last i did it was a few weeks ago, the front cam on the throttle plate got pinched in the wiring harness and pinned the throttle wide open. nothing like watching an engine you built and tuned sit there revving off the 9k limiter without a load on it. i promptly chewed him out for being a sheep because i almost had a heart attack looking for the TT.
yes i know, the most harm it probably did was clean some carbon off the rotors.. but it's beside the point!
yes i know, the most harm it probably did was clean some carbon off the rotors.. but it's beside the point!
I have no opinion on the whole Turbo Timer issue (as I am N/A) but shouldn't the point of this thread be to properly secure the harness? Make sure the throttle linkage is clear and works free of any possibility of becoming 'pinched in the wiring harness'?
Good thing you weren't running up the gears and the throttle plates stuck in your harness between 3rd and 4th when you were already at red-line. What would you blame then? Sure, you could turn off the ignition at 90 mph and coast.
How 'bout saying 'Down with Wiring Harness Dumbasses?'
I'm just saying...
